Accidentally exposed ADOX CHS 25 Art @400 ISO - Need help p/se

[tautatis]

One of those days! Today I took two set of film - T-Max 400 and ADOX CHS 25 Art for for a project that I have been doing for almost a year. Unfortunately, I got too excited and did not notice I wasn't changing my light meter and exposed 4 ADOX CHS 25 Art sheets @ 400 instead of ISO 25. I would like to rescue my negs by developing them properly.

I use Rodinal to develop ADOX CHS 25 and would like to do the same for these 4 sheets. Please help. BTW, I also have Kodak HC110 in case there is anybody with such experience and using this developer.

Thx a lot,

[vinny]

I hate to say it but u are screwed. Expose several more sheets that way and do some tests but my experience with this film says you won't have any detail in the negs. No amount od development can make up for such a lack of exposure.

[Jay DeFehr]

I agree with Vinny.....mostly. A lot depends on the image. If most of the important values are in the upper values, you might be able to salvage something, but not likely what you envisaged when you made the exposure. On the other hand, scanners can salvage detail from water thin negatives where no detail is apparent to the naked eye. If it was me, I'd develop in GSD-10, but one of the developers you have on hand will probably do. I feel for you, and wish you the best of luck.

[Jim Michael]

You might try stand developing a sheet for a couple of hours in Rodinal 1:100 and see what you get.

[memorris]

It is quite unlikely that any about of development will help. Lower values do mot move much and if there is not any density you can not get it back. So do not expect to have anything useful regardless how or how long you develop it.

[Jim Michael]

Right. Hopefully it was dark. With any luck, not only was the meter set to the wrong ISO, but perhaps the readings were in error as well. Without testing you never learn the truth.

OK, brilliant flash of inspiration - try post fogging to shift the density up some. Never tried it personally but I think I recall AA mentioning something to that effect in The Negative.

[Robert Perrin]

Jim beat me to it. I'd recommend a post-exposure. I've used it to bring up some shadow detail in otherwise hopeless brightness range situations; it will help bring up some otherwise lost detail in your situation. Adams discussion (Chapter 5 of The Negative in the New Ansel Adams Photography Series) refers to pre-exposure but post-exposure works just the same. It's an excellent and underused tool.

[John Cahill]

Post exposure and heavy overdevelopment in Acufine might, depending upon the variables mentioned above, give you something printable. Or Edwal FG-7.
HC-110 rather than Rodinal if you choose to stick to the soups you have on the shelf.