what's the most easy to wash away?Originally Posted by sanking
how do you clean off mineral oil?
I understand the cleaning will be necessary even for the drum and for the mounting station...what a mess...
what's the most easy to wash away?
how do you clean off mineral oil?
I understand the cleaning will be necessary even for the drum and for the mounting station...what a mess...
I use Kami fluid now and the solvent mostly evaporates away. However, for the residue there is Kami cleaning fluid. You can also use other film cleaners.
When I used mineral oil I washed the negatives with a dish water liquid. It was not messy but wetting the film puts it a risk so I did not do that long.
Sandy
For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
[url]https://groups.io/g/carbon
Mineral oil has always been a pain to cleanup. You need a good solvent film cleaner to make a dent.
If you have a local pre press supplier ask for Anchor (now Varn) Film Kleen. Works like a charm.
Its been used for 20+ years to clean film for scanning and to cleanup mineral oil.
Best thing to do is setup a large cleaning wipe on your mounting table and set the film on it.
A. its a good base so the film wont slide away and B. it will absorb some from the back of the film.
Then get a wipe with some film kleen and clean from top to bottom. Repeat with a new wipe on the other side.
Throw the wipes out and repeat the process with new wipes & base wipe until the film is clean.
It may take a number of attempts but it will work.
To me, rewashing is a last resort, too much can go wrong ie. dust, scratches…
Kami by contrast is so much easier to use and cleanup. Just a quick cleaning and your set.
I've bought the Kami fluids for mounting and cleaning. At first sight it seems too fluid, water like, I wonder how can one have it stay on a cilinder? First wet mounting trials this next weekend will say
Hi Andrea,
Kami is very thin but perfect for mounting. First you need to tape the mylar at the top of the drum (avoid the calibration area).
Then clean your film and place it between the mylar and the drum. I usually try to get it as straight as possible.
The easiest way to apply kami is with a spray bottle, reusing a clean Pec 12 sprayer bottle is the best bet.
They are deigned for spraying solvents and wont deteriorate as fast as the cheap ones. They also give a very gentle and light spray pattern.
If you do not have a sprayer, gently pour the kami fluid over the top and bottom of the film between the mylar and drum.
Just remember that a little goes a long way and it will come out fast.
Spray the top and bottom of the film to coat it fully then using a few 2-4” pieces of tape, pull the bottom of the mylar tight against the end of the drum but don’t seal it yet.
Tape the left and right side to the drum. Using a roller, press hard and roll from the to to the bottom of the drum to remove air bells and even out the fluid.
Once you hit the end, clean up any fluid that escaped the end of the mylar and seal it with tape.
Now clean the area of the mylar with film cleaner to remove any roller marks and kami fluid.
Note that you should never use film or drum cleaner to mount film. The film cleaner should also not touch the drums surface.
Some drums do not react well to it.
Fluid mounting take practice, its an art! It may take a few times before you get the hang of it, i would practice on a junk neg before you start with a good one.
Hope that helps, please let me know if you have any questions.
thank you Ian.
first try just ended, my God never seen such a mess since my first essays at bw developing in the bathroom with pierced tin foil trays and parents knocking at the door...
- Kami RC film cleaner leaving stains on the slides
- antistatic (dedicated) soft wipes leaving marks, scratches and fluff everywhere
- Tesa tape dissolving into a pulp, the pulp sticking to the film and the drum...(did I say I am a newbie?)
- film literally floating under the sheet of mylar
- 3M special tape getting immediately wet and lifting from the drum as I poured drops of Kami sxl
- dust, dust and dust everywhere
in the end I didn't have the heart to even attach the drum to the scanner, removed every removable trace of this disaster and returned to my parental duties with a solid feeling of fondness for my naïve dry mounting and PS dust spotting until 1 a.m.
Will try again in a few days, anyway...maybe with a different process: place the mylar sheet on the table > pour some kami on it > place the slide on this and let it stick > tape the top of the mylar to the drum > some fluid between the film and the drum > seal the mylar and go.
Any warning off doing this?
thank you
Andrea,
Do you have the correct mounting station for your drum? If so, this will make the mounting much easier. Regardless as Ian said, I've heard it described as an acquired skill. The amount of fluid applied, the speed you roll the drum and the tension applied to the mylar all affect how successful you'll be.
Did you check out the videos at: http://www.aztek.com/KAMI_FAQ.html
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
yes thanks, I do have the mounting station for it. I guess I need a stronger tape, I will try the Kami one
Hello everyone! a good liquid fro scanning is a Gamsol
https://gamblincolors.com/oil-painting/gamsol/
According to SDS this is a naphta, hydrotreated heavy
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks