Page 9 of 10 FirstFirst ... 78910 LastLast
Results 81 to 90 of 97

Thread: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

  1. #81

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,583

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Sandy,

    I used this method first time yesterday and am impressed with it. I have used Rollo-Pyro all these years. One big question: the negatives from my third load, I used Jobo 3005, seemed not properly developed, all five sheets. I could barely see the images and I have to throw them away. Do you think the developers were exhausted then? I used 1:20 at both a and b and they are fresh.

    Thanks,
    Hugo

  2. #82

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    5,350

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugo Zhang View Post
    Sandy,

    I used this method first time yesterday and am impressed with it. I have used Rollo-Pyro all these years. One big question: the negatives from my third load, I used Jobo 3005, seemed not properly developed, all five sheets. I could barely see the images and I have to throw them away. Do you think the developers were exhausted then? I used 1:20 at both a and b and they are fresh.

    Thanks,
    Hugo

    Hugo,

    I don't recommend re-using the solutions when you are rotary processing. Just dilute 1:20, use the minimum amount needed for the drum, and discard the solutions after one run.

    Sandy
    http://www.sandykingphotography.com/
    For discussion and information about carbon transfer please visit the carbon group at groups.io
    [url]https://groups.io/g/carbon

  3. #83

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    The folks at Phototherm are setting up my FP-1 to do Pyrocat-HD according to Sandy's recommendations in the beginning of this thread. They are balking at using acetic acid as a stop bath, saying it will damage the check valves. Is there an alternative? Can I use water? and for how long. Many thanks for all the shared information!

  4. #84

    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    129

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Sandy, several years have passed since this thread was posted, and I was wondering if you and others are still using Photoflo in Sol. A of Pyro-HD?

    Quote Originally Posted by sanking View Post
    You can add the Photoflo at the beginning, as part of Solution A, or you could add it later, so long as you add it before draining and placing the film in Solution B. I always add it at the beginning, when I mix working Solution A.

    Sandy

  5. #85

  6. #86
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Coquitlam, BC, Canada, eh!
    Posts
    4,635

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Sandy, several years have passed since this thread was posted, and I was wondering if you and others are still using Photoflo in Sol. A of Pyro-HD?
    I do… actually I use Fuji's version, Dry-Well. I also give film a stop more exposure when 2-bath is anticipated.

  7. #87
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Coquitlam, BC, Canada, eh!
    Posts
    4,635

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Dug up a test I did comparing 2-bath and single bath. Film was HP5+. Done with BTZS tube. 1+10 for the two-bath. 6ml of A and B, each in their own cap with 60ml water. Temperature was held at 24C. Water presoak was given at same temperature for 3 minutes. Cap A got 5 drops of Drywell (Fuji's version of Photoflo). Film received vigorous agitation in both A and B, 5 minutes each.

    For single bath (image on the left), BTZS tube as well, I gave N-7 development, which in my case is 4 minutes at 21C. No presoak was given.

    Both negatives look very good. You can clearly see the 2-bath negative's highlight compensation. I should also add that I placed the darkest shadow under the chair on zone V. About a stop higher than normal.
    These are straight scans. Only the black and white points were touched in the scanning software.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2BathCompare.jpg  

  8. #88

    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    365

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Ken, this is simply amazing. This could open up a lot of opportunities for my photography that simply didn't exist before. I have visited many historic places and simply walked away because I was there during the wrong light. Thank you for sharing this.

    Also, in a new thread that I recently started you had suggested I check out the Divided Pyrocat development process and this is what lead me to this thread. I have a quick question for you. I mostly use my 4x5, but there are times when that just isn't possible and I use my little Nikon F100 and roll film. If I wanted to apply your metering technique as you described I was thinking I could do the following, but wanted to confirm my logic with you. Put the F100 in spot meter mode and meter for my shadows. Since that would be on zone V, dial in -1 exposure compensation and lock the exposure before focusing and taking the photo. That sound right to you?

    Thanks

    Larry



    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Lee View Post
    I hope a little more enthusiasm for Divided Pyrocat is not unwelcome. This post prompted me to perform an experiment: a photo made under mid-day Sun on a cloudless day - something I haven't done with a View Camera in decades, if ever.

    With ordinary methods of exposure and development, adequate detail in both the shadows and high values would have been impossible. The shade areas would have been black and lifeless, or the sun-lit wall would have been white - but it was trivial with Divided Pyrocat.

    I simply metered the shadow area and placed it on Zone IV. The high values fell way off the scale, but the 2-bath development process took care of that. The shadow area has full separation - a remarkable feat - as do the high values.

    Sandy's suggestion of adding a few grams of Photo Flo to Solution A, has worked wonders: I now get perfectly even development.


    Massachusetts, 2010
    Sinar P, 300mm Fujinon A
    4x5 HP5+, Divided Pyrocat HD

  9. #89

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts USA
    Posts
    8,443

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Quote Originally Posted by LFLarry View Post
    I mostly use my 4x5, but there are times when that just isn't possible and I use my little Nikon F100 and roll film. If I wanted to apply your metering technique as you described I was thinking I could do the following, but wanted to confirm my logic with you. Put the F100 in spot meter mode and meter for my shadows. Since that would be on zone V, dial in -1 exposure compensation and lock the exposure before focusing and taking the photo. That sound right to you?
    Testing with 35mm film is a good idea: we can save on materials and more easily test extreme enlargements.

    If we want a subject in the shadows to end up on Zone IV (as with the barn image above) then yes, we can place it there and let the high values fall where they may. This is one of the attractions of Divided Pyrocat: expose for the shadows, period.

    That being said, a white horse in the shade ? a black cat in the shade ? Should they both be placed on Zone IV ? Not all "shadows" are the same.

    As with all other film testing I have done, I found that using the published formula and developing times, Divided Pyrocat gives ~1/2 box speed: 50 for TMX and FP4+, 200 for TMY and HP5+, etc. We can split hairs and use 64 and 250, but the differences amount to a fraction of an f/stop, often beyond our ability to precisely meter a scene.

    I should point out that I stopped using Divided Pyrocat because I couldn't always avoid uneven development. At that time, I developed sheet film in trays and did not want to give up development by inspection and adopt rotary processing. Since you use a JOBO, you may not have any problems.

    Please share what you discover. I am happy to be proven wrong

  10. #90

    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    365

    Re: Pyocat-HD/-MC 2 Bath Developing...

    Hi Ken, thanks for your thoughtful reply and information.

    I am planning to do some tests this weekend, assuming the weather provides the opportunity.

    It is funny you mentioned the white and black subjects in the shade because I will have those exact scenarios in my future project, at least on occasion. Since the suggest with Divided Bath Pyrocat HD is to meter on the shadows, I will likely have to try a few different approaches to find something that is repeatable.

    Either way, I will report back once I have some tests completed.

    I am using a new Jobo CPP-3 with the Jobo Expert drums by the way, so we will see if the stains/uneven development are an issue or not under this scenario.

    In years past, I have had some staining/streaking issues with Pyrocat HD in trays with 8x10 and 11x14 films and it got to the point that I abandoned it because I couldn't trust it, even though the good ones were some of my best work.

    Thanks again.

    -Larry


    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Lee View Post
    Testing with 35mm film is a good idea: we can save on materials and more easily test extreme enlargements.

    If we want a subject in the shadows to end up on Zone IV (as with the barn image above) then yes, we can place it there and let the high values fall where they may. This is one of the attractions of Divided Pyrocat: expose for the shadows, period.

    That being said, a white horse in the shade ? a black cat in the shade ? Should they both be placed on Zone IV ? Not all "shadows" are the same.

    As with all other film testing I have done, I found that using the published formula and developing times, Divided Pyrocat gives ~1/2 box speed: 50 for TMX and FP4+, 200 for TMY and HP5+, etc. We can split hairs and use 64 and 250, but the differences amount to a fraction of an f/stop, often beyond our ability to precisely meter a scene.

    I should point out that I stopped using Divided Pyrocat because I couldn't always avoid uneven development. At that time, I developed sheet film in trays and did not want to give up development by inspection and adopt rotary processing. Since you use a JOBO, you may not have any problems.

    Please share what you discover. I am happy to be proven wrong

Similar Threads

  1. Anybody using Pyrocat-HD or MC as a Compensating Developer?
    By Jay Decker in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 163
    Last Post: 8-Apr-2014, 12:40
  2. Apparatus to aid using Expert Drum with roller base
    By David Karp in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 3-Jun-2011, 15:19
  3. Two bath print developing
    By RPippin in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 24-Sep-2010, 05:03
  4. Developing with Tetenal C41 Kit
    By Matei Bejenaru in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 15-Aug-2009, 06:48
  5. Old Formulas : Toners
    By Paul Fitzgerald in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 2-Apr-2005, 09:35

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •