Can't remove lens from board, any tips?

[gdi]

I have an old ektar 127 on a speed graphic board and I need to remove it to try to clean the Synchro Compur shutter. The slow speeds are terrible.

But the retaining ring is a bit recessed and I am having trouble getting a wrench in to remove it. I have broken a bit already, and I think the thing needs some encouragement to loosen up. Would something like liquid wrench or blast away(?) lubricant help or destroy the components? I thought of heating it up with an heat gun, but don't want to melt anything!

thanks

[Peter K]

I have an old ektar 127 on a speed graphic board and I need to remove it to try to clean the Synchro Compur shutter. The slow speeds are terrible.

Why do you think you can clean a Synchro Compur if you cannot remove the shutter from the lensboard? You will need not only the tools but also the skills. Or can you fix grandfather's pocket watch too?

A leaf shutter isn't so different from a watch.

Peter

[domaz]

I don't think you even need to take it off the lensboard. Try following the instructions for CLAing a Synchro-Compur on this page. It's way down near the bottom- lots of good stuff there.

[gdi]

Why do you think you can clean a Synchro Compur if you cannot remove the shutter from the lensboard? You will need not only the tools but also the skills. Or can you fix grandfather's pocket watch too?

A leaf shutter isn't so different from a watch.

Peter

Actually I have built many precision pocket watches using only tin snips and old beer cans. If you behave yourself I might be convinced to sell you one.

[Captain_joe6]

I'm in a similar situation. I want to sell a camera, but not the 127mm Ektar in Supermatic #2 shutter, so I need to remove it from the lensboard.

Problem is, It won't budge. The retaining ring is not slotted for a spanner, and is screwed to the lensboard, but turning the shutter against the lensboard proves futile. Is there a retaining pin somewhere that I'm missing?

[gdi]

I don't think you even need to take it off the lensboard. Try following the instructions for CLAing a Synchro-Compur on this page. It's way down near the bottom- lots of good stuff there.

Thanks Domaz, The problem is that I need to remove the rear element and it looks like it will be much easier with the lens detached. But I will take another look at it.

[Brian Ellis]

If your retaining ring has the usual slots buy the S.K. Grimes spanner wrench from - surprise - S.K. Grimes. The ends are adjustable so that they can fit down into the recessed area. I used mine with several different kinds of recessed boards and they worked like a charm. They're slightly pricey (about $30) as spanner wrenches go but they're the usual Grimes quality and once you have it you'll never need another one. I'll be selling mine one of these days, if you're interested send me an email message.

[gdi]

If your retaining ring has the usual slots buy the S.K. Grimes spanner wrench from - surprise - S.K. Grimes. The ends are adjustable so that they can fit down into the recessed area. I used mine with several different kinds of recessed boards and they worked like a charm. They're slightly pricey (about $30) as spanner wrenches go but they're the usual Grimes quality and once you have it you'll never need another one. I'll be selling mine one of these days, if you're interested send me an email message.

Thanks Brian, I'll send you an email. I have several wrenches but nn seemed to fit well enough to be able to apply adequate pressure.

[Jim Noel]

Two nails only partially through a board at the appropriate separation provide a good emergency retaining ring wrench. Although I have two good wrenches, I sometimes have to resort to this solution.

[steven_e007]

The secret to removing the ring is to get a decent grip with a good quality spanner wrench of the correct size and shape. The thing you really want to avoid is attacking it with something that doesn't fit and damaging the slots. You may then end up with a ring almost impossible to remove...

You can buy spanner wrenches on ebargumbay and from tool stockists. Even good quality ones sometimes need to be 'fine tuned' on a grindstone to get the tips to be a good fit if the slots are small. When you have a spanner that is a good fit - apply a SMALL amount of thread release/ penetrating oil. Make sure it just goes on the threads... put a little on a needle and let capillary action pull it in to where it is needed, rather than squirt it everywhere

Place the whole lot in a well sealed plastic bag and place in the fridge for a few hours.

When it comes out, touch a soldering iron ( a precision electronic one - not a 25LB brass pot handle tool!) to the ring - being very careful to touch only the ring - for just a short while. Then try it. Gentle shock treatment sometimes works (very gentle taps with your knuckles - not a sledge hammer!

HTH