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Thread: Pull or Push - just checking

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2001
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    Robin Hoods Bay / Yorkshire Dales
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    146

    Pull or Push - just checking

    Sorry for my mind being in a muddle.... I always expose 2 quickloads identically of each scene in case of disasters. In this case I have had one set developed and they are a little too light. I assume I ask the lab to pull process by x sto ps when I have the second set developed because I have given more light to the f ilm than I should have.

    Thanks

    Dave

  2. #2

    Pull or Push - just checking

    That's correct. But, you will lose some contrast in pull process.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Greenbank, WA
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    2,614

    Pull or Push - just checking

    Your assumption is correct IF you're shooting transparencies. IF not, it is backwards.

  4. #4

    Pull or Push - just checking

    Dave:

    I use a similar technique... but if you do this with transparency film, you should try to be on the under, not over exposed range of exposure. Pulling generally has less success than pushing. For example, with Provia 100F you can only pull 1/2, maybe 1 stop at most. You can easily push 1 or 2 stops.

  5. #5

    Pull or Push - just checking

    (Again, assuming transparency film)..........another way to approach this is to shoot the original (qty-2) chromes for intended development at +1/2. Then if the first (tranny developed) is too light, you can process the second at N without experiencing the significant contrast loss due to pulling the film. This of course assumes that the scene can withstand the added contrast due to pushing.

    so for example with Velvia, I shoot the scene at ASA64 (this assumes an actual ASA of 40) and develop at +1/2. This gives me a latitude of 1 and 1/2stops (N to +1 and 1/2) to account for exposure errors on the second. (my personal feeling is that Velvia goes too (wierdly) warm at +2)

    Pulling film is a very useful tool, but comes with its own set of problems. In my experience, Velvia pulls nicely to -1, but with a very significant contrast loss, and a shift to magenta. Of course, with the reduction of overall contrast comes the cooresponding reduction in local contrast. Many times, (at -1) once the overall contrast is controlled, the reduction in local contrast often leaves the image lifeless and dull. (read - not useable). You can cc green to account for the magenta shift.

    I use Velvia as an example.....any film should be personally tested to account for taste.

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