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Thread: Lens cap solution

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    28

    Lens cap solution

    Good points on buying a $1200+ lens and getting a 5 cent lens cap with it. Why not just get a snap on lens cap, like the ones 35mm lenses come with, and call i t good? Also, it helps to wrap the lenese well so that there's less chance of a ny pressure on the front building up to the damage point.

    Much to do about nothing .... ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    Loganville , GA
    Posts
    14,409

    Lens cap solution

    Snap-on caps are not made in all of the sizes used by modern LF lenses.

    Tiffen makes them from 46 to 72mm only (and screw-in metal from 46 to 77mm). Samigon offers snap-on in 46 to 77mm. Tamaron has a 112mm snap on Pentax has an 82mm Heliopan makes them from 43 to 77mm Kaiser from 46 to 77mm B+W from 46 to 77mm

    Rodenstock has lenses with filter sizes from 40.5 to 112mm. Add a Center Filter and Rodestock requires sizes up to 127mm. Then there are also lenses like the Imagon which have no threads.

    Another problem is snap caps seem to have a propensity of falling off lenses easier then push-on or some bayonet caps do.

    If someone wants to have a hard cap that will not accidently fall off they probably need screw-in ones for LF lenses. But they are not available either in the range of sizes needed just for Rodenstock.

    Easy to suggest a snap cap but it isn't totally the answer.

    Perhaps you might want to go into business making custom screw-in hard caps (that will not contact glass with large front curves) for the people out there that feel that they must have one.

  3. #3

    Lens cap solution

    This seems to be the fourth thread on this topic. I posted a bit about my solut ions in the original thread at:

    http://hv.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=006hFm

    I actually use a number of methods for replacing flimsy factory supplied caps on my Rodenstock and Schneider lenses.

    As Bob mentions, snap caps do not come in all sizes for all lenses - especially rear elements. But, when one is available, it is often the best and the least e xpensive option (of course, the BEST solution would be for the manufacturers to supply decent caps in the first place). It has been my experience that good qua lity snap-caps are actually LESS likely to fall off than slip-on caps. I have f ound the Nikon snap caps to work exceptionally well. They are readily available and inexpensive. Most camera stores that sell Nikon 35mm cameras and lenses wi ll have replacements lenses in stock in a variety of sizes. I haven't personall y used them, but I have friends who use the Pentax and Tamron snap caps and they seem to be of comparable quality to the Nikon snap caps. For all my lenses wit h front filter sizes smaller than 52mm, I buy a a step-up ring from the lens thr ead size to 52mm. This allows me to use standard 52mm screw-in glass filters on these lenses. I leave these step-up rings mounted on the lenses during transpo rt. It saves eime when a filter is required (no fumbling inteh pack for the rig ht ste-up ring) and allows me to use the Nikon 52mm snap caps to protect the fro nt elements on these lenses.

    Another solution is replacement slip-on caps from Nikkor or Fujinon LF lenses. While such replacements are not available for some Schneider and Rodenstock lens es, between Nikon and Fuji, a fit can be found for the majority of the German le nses.

    Custom made caps by Steve Grimes. As others have mentioned, these caps are the most rigid slip-on plastic caps available. Steve will custom make them to fit a ny lens - front or back. They are not cheap, but a lot cheaper than repairing a damaged lens.

    Screw-in metal caps. This is what I am currently using on my 75mm f6.8 Grandago n-N. It is slower to install and remove than a snap cap or slip-on cap, but it is a rigid metal cap that truly protects the front element of this lens (MUCH be tter than the supplied original cap).

    Filters. The only lens I've ever done this with was a 150mm Super Symmar HM - u nfortunately after the initial damage to the front element.

    Spacer. This is what I use on my 110mm Super Symmar XL. As anyone who owns thi s lens knows, there are some problems with some standard 67mm filters on this le ns (Tiffen in particular). When I first got this lens, I removed the glass from an old 67mm Hoya UV filter and just leave the empty aluminum filter ring on the lens at all times. It is threaded in the front to accept standard 67mm filters (now my Tiffen filters work fine with this lens). Plus, it provides a little e xtra space that prevents the factory supplied from contacting the front element during transport. Just a note, I am only using this lens on 4x5 these days, so I have not encountered mechanical vignetting when using filters with this lens. If you are using this lens with larger formats you would be better off using wi de angle filters to avoid any possible vignetting.

    It does seem ridiculous that these expensive German lenses come with such poorly made caps. Of course, it is equally ridiculous to not replace these caps with somethng more substantial. Others will hide their heads in the sand and claim t hat there isn't a problem. Personally, I have owned three lenses over the years with cap inflicted damage (two Rodenstock and one Schneider) and since there ar e several people posting in four separate threads, I am obviously not the only o ne who sees this as a problem. Obviosuly, the best solution would be better fac tory supplied caps. Schneider may be getting the message (check out the machine d aluminum cap on their new 210mm Super Symmar XL). In the mean time, the first thing I do with any new lens, even before mounting it on a lens board, is to ch eck the caps. If there is any possibility that they can contact the glass when carried in the field, I replace them with one of the solutions listed above. Ra ther than deny the existance of a problem, I think we would all be better served to discuss possible solutions.

    Kerry

    P.S. Just so Bob doesn't think I am singling out Rodenstock or being unfair, pl ease note that I have also had problems with some Schneider lens caps (see above ). Also, not all Rodenstock caps are bad. For example, the front and rear caps on my 150mm APO Sironar-S are great. They have a more cupped shape that provid es additional space between the cap and the lens elements. This cupped shape see ms to also add rigidity to the cap. With my 135mm APO Sironar-S, the front cap was great (like the 150), but the rear cap was awful - contacted the element the very first time I carried it in my pack. The worst caps I have ever seen regar dless of brand were the ones that came with my 75mm f6.8 Grandagon-N. That lens never left the house until I replaced the factory caps. Again, not trying to p ick on Rodenstock. Just supplying a few data points, both good and bad, WRT som e of their current caps.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    28

    Lens cap solution

    And while we're on the subject ... leaf shutter accuracy is also a sham. Shooting velvia, 1/3 stop off can make or break an image, yet with the "accuracy" of most leaf shutters, especially ones a few years old, bracketing is almost essential - either that or take the time to look up the tested speed for each time and lens, and possible miss the shot in quickly changing light.

    I can live with this, yet I find it really sad how little thought is put into LF gear (with some exceptions) compared to 35mm gear. Huge amounts of R&D spent on gear that is only used to take Joe Sixpack's vacation pixs or rinky dink reportage that get's tossed along with yeaterday's news. If 1/10 of a perect of the effort that goes into designing 35mm gear was poured into LF, we'd really be somewhere, instead of stuck back in the Matthew Brady era for the most part.

    Ah but I forget supply and demand, the those market forces that keep us plunging downward into one-size fits all mediocrity of our disposable product society .... resistance is futile!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    Loganville , GA
    Posts
    14,409

    Lens cap solution

    "leaf shutter accuracy"

    Who says it can't be.

    Rollei Linear Motor shutters for view cameras are deadly accurate. So are Horseman ISS shutters.

    But you can buy several Copal shutters for the price of one of these shutters.

    Then you need a very expensive control box to operate it.

    Then you have the Sinar Expolux system.

    If you want to pay the tariff the shutter systems are availibal. You add signicant cost, weight, size, need battery power, etc. so the average user has no wish to use them.

    In maechanical shutters you can also get better control with a Prontor Professional shutter. Again more cost and size. But the increased accuracy is not as great a gain as the other benefits, 1/3rd stop apertures, rear setting of all controls, rear operation of the shutter.

    But more cost, weight, etc.

    Copal shutters are the starting point.

    If you want to pay more there are several other options. Most are special order.

  6. #6

    Lens cap solution

    Leica has solved the problem about people complaining about cheap lens caps. On their Trinovid Binoculars, they don't give you any at all for the front.

    Neal

  7. #7

    Lens cap solution

    I think Mr. Solomon has a point. You can get all the accuracy and computer precision, if you are willing to pay for it. Joe sixpack's party snaps represent a significantly larger percentage of dollars spent on photography than the few large format amateurs and professionals. If I were in business would I spend R&D dollars to chase the big dollar mass market or the esoteric niche? As for the lens caps, it sort of seems like some one willing to spend a thousand dollars on a large format lens ought to be able to spend what is necessary to protect that investment. If you would rather whine about the big bad lens manufacturer's being skimpy with the free and included lens caps maybe you really have run out of things to complain about.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    377

    Lens cap solution

    Careful Dave, you'll give them ideas. Stores have removed camera straps, batteries, "never-ready" cases, etc... in the past and charged the customer extra for them. The last thing we need is for them to start removing lenscaps. "Free lenscaps"! You aren't a relative of "Honest Abe's" are you? :>)

  9. #9

    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    138

    Lens cap solution

    Dave,

    It's not a question of whether or not one can afford to pay for a better lens cap or not, even after being, "willing to spend a thousand dollars on a large format lens". With the RIDICULOUSLY high prices one has to pay for these quality lenses, surely the manufactuer should provide a decent lens cap to protect the lens - I'm sure you expect the seatbelt in your car to be of the highest quality to protect you, after spending thousands of dollars on for your car.

    The point is, these manufacturers shouldn't be alienating their customers by including cheap & nasty lenscaps and expecting them to buy their own better quality caps.

    Kind regards

    Peter Brown

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Posts
    60

    Lens cap solution

    After reading this for two days, I've come to agreement with the "much ado about nothing" comment. I've used Schneider lenscaps when a used lens of another manufacturer came with none. I find them fine. I do protect my lenses in other ways also: either in padded pockets in my usual bag or in lenswraps if I'm using another carrying vehicle. I'd say there's a lot more to protect on a lens than just the front and rear elements and I don't think a lens cap should be expected to shoulder the load alone.

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