Omegalite D Schneider 150 Could you help?

[ic-racer]

You need the 5 1/4" cone.
Luckily they made the D2 cones and the D3 cones in different sizes, so all 5 1/4" cones are for the D3. Otherwise they look similar in e-bay pictures.

[ic-racer]

Also, you did not say if you have the focusing track for the 150mm. If one of the two you have is not for the 150 then pick one up from Harry's classic enlargers. You will also need a mounting plate for the lens. Those plates have different sized holes, depending on the lens you have. The plates are common to many models, besides the D3.

Also check out the D3 manual here: http://www.darkroompro.com/pdf/enlargers/omega_d3d5.pdf

[emo supremo]

Oopps, I ordered a cone from B&H but it is a 5 inch cone (argh). Also, prior to this thread I ordered the three turrnet lensplate from debey but in this case both the seller and buyer didn't have enough data for a clue (it came this afternoon; it didn't fit). This is turning into a horror story.

Thank you for the URL for the D3 manual. Omega enlargers may have been around for a long time but despite asking the right questions me: "Will your enlarger will do 4x5?" he: "Absolutely" i'm nettled that the enlarger is NOT set up for 4x5. (this was bought sight unseen and transported by a friend who happened to be coming into NYC) So much for a 'great deal'.

I'm not throwing away another dime until I can get the manual for this crazy thing.
I'm was reading in another thread by Mark Sampson who suggested, "The old 'flying-saucer' type cold-light heads have several serious problems." ,,, and "I think the flying-saucers are a complete waste of time" (re: TimK thread entitled Re: Question about cold light and vc filters ) Hmmmm, do you think I should drop it off the dock and start over with more modern (and complete/working) apparatus?

[jnantz]

harry at classic enlargers has
all the parts and information you need.
he IS the omega-man!

[emo supremo]

I made a cone from a tin can this morning and it seems to be worth pursuing. I disengaed the large silver wheel that engages what I think is called a focusing rail and it lets the bellow rack out far more.

1. Could anyone explain why they use a cone and separate focusing rail. Seems to me just letting the bellows extend is a far better solution to accomodating long lenses for large negs?
2. What is the rationale about having stickers that said "such and such lens was for such and such rail"? Cameras use any old lens (again, depending on bellow). What's up with this?
3. When I get the manual I expect it will tell me what I need to get for cone, focusing rail and whatever. Thanks again Emlio

[ic-racer]

I made a cone from a tin can this morning and it seems to be worth pursuing. I disengaed the large silver wheel that engages what I think is called a focusing rail and it lets the bellow rack out far more.

1. Could anyone explain why they use a cone and separate focusing rail. Seems to me just letting the bellows extend is a far better solution to accomodating long lenses for large negs?
2. What is the rationale about having stickers that said "such and such lens was for such and such rail"? Cameras use any old lens (again, depending on bellow). What's up with this?
3. When I get the manual I expect it will tell me what I need to get for cone, focusing rail and whatever. Thanks again Emlio

emo, don't fret.

I just finished setting up a friend with a D3 and Chromega II head with 3 focus tracks, 3 lenses and a Condenser head also. It was entirely put together from donated free stuff that was totally useless until I put all the appropriate pieces together. We just finished the final installation of the Chromega head Monday.

I can get you set up also. If you can list exactly what you have in terms of lenses, and thread diameter and focusing tracks etc. I can help you get this thing running. It really is a fantastic enlarger when set up.

If the only lamp head you have is the Omegalight, that is way better than none at all. Don't worry.

In terms of your questions. The focus rails and lenses were matched for retail sales (I suspect so the appropriate components known to work together would be sold together ), but any lens of appropriate focal length will match the focus rails marked focal length.

If the focus rails controlled the full bellows movement, the rails would have to be much, much bigger. The cones 'take up the slack' so the wheel and focus rail only have to move the minimum amount. It really is a well thought out system once you understand it.

[ic-racer]

http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,11052.html

That one is a little expensive. But once you know what to look for you will find something for cheap if you are persistent.

For my friend, we wound up going with a cone we found on e-bay for $14. It was the cone for the 135mm, so we went with a 135mm lens instead.

craigslist listing for a d3 with multiple lenses for $200. Might ask him if the lenses (139 and 161mm) are attached to cones and sell separate. http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pho/1531229639.html

[Jon Shiu]

The newer omegas did away with the cones and use an adjustable bellows.

Jon

[jnantz]

I made a cone from a tin can this morning and it seems to be worth pursuing. I disengaed the large silver wheel that engages what I think is called a focusing rail and it lets the bellow rack out far more.

1. Could anyone explain why they use a cone and separate focusing rail. Seems to me just letting the bellows extend is a far better solution to accomodating long lenses for large negs?
2. What is the rationale about having stickers that said "such and such lens was for such and such rail"? Cameras use any old lens (again, depending on bellow). What's up with this?
3. When I get the manual I expect it will tell me what I need to get for cone, focusing rail and whatever. Thanks again Emlio

hi emo

the reason why they had lens cones and rails
was to make an auto focusing enlarger that the user
only had to adjust the fine focus a tiny bit to move from a 4x6 print to a 11x14
from the same negative. they work very well when they are set up.

look for an aux bellows ( for jewel prints ) it might help you out quiet a bit...