I agree with the suggestion for a lens. I just recently got both a 135mm and 150mm after years of shooting with just a 90mm and a 210mm. Turns out that I really a normal lens on the 4x5.
Roger
I agree with the suggestion for a lens. I just recently got both a 135mm and 150mm after years of shooting with just a 90mm and a 210mm. Turns out that I really a normal lens on the 4x5.
Roger
Russ Yantis, a long departed photographer friend, used to say "If you reach into your camera bag for a piece of equipment you need and it isn't there, then buy it." In other words, don't buy stuff just to buy stuff.
I'm with the other parade-rainers here. I'd spend that money on a trip, a few books, a print, or maybe self-publish a book.
And investing is a good idea, too.
But the best idea is surprise your better half with a nice piece of jewelry. You'll get a lot of mileage out of it.
Oh yes, many have had that experience. 6x17 backs are indeed available for 4x5" cameras. The film plane is further back (5 cm or so?) and that is how you can have such a wide format on a 4x5" camera. I have used one for some time now and I really love it. Not that many exhibition prints from it yet, but it is a lot of fun experimenting with such an extreme format.
One issue with 6x17 backs on 4x5" cameras is that it is difficult to use wide angle lenses, since the film plane is further back. I have used 135 mm on my Toyo 45CF as the widest, and that is wide enough for me.
Originally Posted by Richard K.
6x17 back would be totally groovy but I don't think ANYONE has had the experience of using it on a 4x5 camera since 17 cm is over 6 1/2"...you will need a 5x7 camera / back
Best regards,
Eirik Berger
OK I'll go back to bed now and resume my blissful ignorance sleep...
Thanks for the education, Eric.
I guess it's kind of like the 5x7 extended backs for 4x5?
When I was 16 I thought my father the stupidest man in the world; when I reached 21, I was astounded by how much he had learned in just 5 years!
-appropriated from Mark Twain
You'll also be limited by mechanical vignetting to about 150mm maximum focal length. They also tend to use a GG viewing back, so add that weight and bulk to your kit.
Where are you based? Perhaps borrow/rent/use a 617 before going any further with this purchase?
A Schneider 120mm could be good as it has a massive image circle. The grads are a good idea (get the biggest ones you can).
Have a good think about your meter. If you have doubts about your current one, I can only imagine that these doubts will grow. From what I read here, when you find you "right" meter, it's a meeting for life! I have a digital spot and love it; no need to keep looking!
What about a Jobo processor?
Lachlan.
You miss 100% of the shots you never take. -- Wayne Gretzky
Thanks for all the replies - lots of helpful suggestions in there.
I've been living in Australia for the last year after moving down from England. I'm learning the panoramic format suits the lanscape well, hence the temptations with 6x17. Being in Oz somewhat limits the availablility of gear, and the try-before-you-buy is practically impossible, so I wanted to make a sensible purchase before going to the trouble of importing whatever it is I chose to buy from abroad - LF used gear is rare as rocking horse sh1t here, or way overpriced...
I too agree with spending the money on a plane ticket or some books. I love books and the inspiration they give me, and adding a few more the library is always a good idea. I also have trips booked or planned to NZ, Canada and Europe for 2010, so I'm thinking in advance what sort of photographs I want to take, and what equiment would be required.
I'm looking for a 90mm lens (as per the thread in the for sale/wanted forum) as I think it would be the widest I could go on the 6x17. However a range of 75, 90, and 210 still leaves a large gap in the normal-range. But I want to hang onto my 75 as its a brand new Grandagon-N that I went through the trouble of importing.
I have an Ebony 45S that I reckon I couldn't get the 75 to work with the 6x17 back, I simply couldn't get the front standard far back enough. 90mm might work, it may need a recessed board. 110 or 135 would be better, but I love the 90 on the 6x17 format, having borrowed one in Europe a few years ago.
Alternatively I forget about 6x17 and go back to 6x12, the format that I loved using with my Horseman SW612 (hence my username), and just get a 6x12 back whereby all my lenses work. 75 on 6x12 would be lovely I'm sure, however it's just a cropped 4x5" in effect, and those extra centimeters on the side might make all the difference.
So you see my dilema!
And, of course, any prospective purchases are naturally preceeded by a gift of jewelry/a day at the spa/weekend away (without camera!) to my long suffering better-half!
Cheers
1. If you don't know what focal length lens you need to add, then you probably don't need to add it.
2. If you do a lot of low light stuff, a sensitive meter that works in very low light is a very nice thing to have along.
3. Get an 8x10 with sliders. That will give you two 4"x10" negs on one sheet of film----slick!
4. If you get the 8x10 you will need a new tripod!
5. A filter holder is neat to use---less chance of getting fingerprints on your filters. There is one cheapie with barn doors for a sunshade and a slot for gels. Put your filters in cardbard holders and they'll last longer. You can also write the filter factor on the cardboard. Lee makes one that snaps on with a rubber band thingy (the big rubber bands from brocolli or asparagus works well as a replacement.) Of course threaded glass filters are the snazzy route. Well worth it if you ask me.
6. I guess. Or invest in an emulsion that's going to be around for awhile.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
Let me know if you're ever in Melbourne. I have a couple of 6x17's you can have a look at.
Lachlan.
You miss 100% of the shots you never take. -- Wayne Gretzky
I consider a spotmeter an essential and recommend getting one. I've been using a Pentax Digital Spotmeter since 2004 and have been perfectly satisfied with it's performance.
Also essential is a good stable tripod and head. After wearing out a Manfratto C441, I purchased a Gitzo G1348 and Arca Swiss z1-sp ball head. The G1348 is discontinued and "replaced" but the replacement, while shaving 0.4lbs off the weight (4.4 vs 4.8) and 2.3" off the folded length (21.7" vs 24"), the older G1348 has a 65.7" maximum height without the center column vs 52" for the newer replacement.
Filters are also essential. Since you are already using Cokins, I recommend the Cokin Z holder which looks like the Lee Foundation holder but is, IMO, better since you don't have to use a screw driver to change the width of the slots to accommodate wider filters. As far as filters, get the glass ones. They are much more expensive but won't get scratched like the resin. I am using Zokin Z and am slowly replacing worn resins (Hi Tek and Cokin) with Schneider glass.
As far as readyloads, bite the bullet now and start using holders. You'll save both money and weight.
Thomas
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