For the record, Alcohol does not kill spores.Originally Posted by StoneNYC
For the record, Alcohol does not kill spores.
Stone,
You're not using alcohol inside the clockwork mechanism of the shutter, are you? That's a pretty good way to remove the lubricant...
As for lens cleaning:
1. Read the Schneider white paper linked to above and/or the Kodak instructions (which are similar). They provide detailed procedures from those who know best. FWIW, it boils down to: gently blow or brush the dust off your lens then, using an appropriate tissue or cloth and cleaning fluid (if necessary), gently clean the lens taking care to use a clean portion of the tissue/cloth for every swipe to prevent scratching. Polish gently with a microfiber cloth if needed to remove streaks. Note that Schneider recommends several solvents depending on the type and severity of the dirt/grease on the lens.
2. Clean your lens as little as possible. Use lens caps. Protect your lens from salt spray, etc as needed with a filter.
As for scratching coatings: Modern coatings are pretty hard. Careful and infrequent cleaning should not harm them noticeably in your lifetime. Older lenses are a different matter. Most single-coated lens coatings are softer and need to be treated with extra care. If not, the coatings will scratch (that's why there are so many older lenses for sale with "cleaning marks").
A couple of observations from personal experience:
I was skeptical of the "new" microfiber cloths when they first came out (30 years ago now...). I was working in a photo store then when a sales rep came by touting the new cloths. To test out his claims I grabbed a Wratten gel filter and his demo cloth. I rubbed the gel filter like crazy, trying my best to damage it. Result: no damage at all. As long as you use a clean cloth, the microfiber cloths are really good. The main cause of damage to coatings is using a cloth or tissue with dust or grit embedded in it, which just turns it into sandpaper. Bottom line: keep your cloths clean or use a fresh tissue every time.
Also, although I know it is not recommended to breathe on your lenses, if one is very careful to only get condensation from your breath on the lens and not inadvertently spew it with saliva, that little bit of distilled water, used judiciously, makes a good and readily available cleaning fluid in the field. Don't overdo it and don't try it in below-freezing temperatures. Also, don't try to blow dust off your lens; this is what is guaranteed to get spittle on your lens. A brushing with a soft brush followed by a gentle breath of air to provide some moisture immediately wiped away by a clean tissue or cloth makes a pretty handy field cleaning kit that is especially useful when your lens has just been exposed to sea spray or other grime. FWIW, I carry a camel's-hair lipstick brush and a clean microfiber cloth with me when in the field. Better to clean such stuff up immediately rather that wait till you reach home.
And, as Bob mentions, canned air products can spew propellant all over your lens. It's much safer to use a blower and/or soft brush.
Best,
Doremus
Anyone use collodion?
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I use a camel hair brush on my petzvals and RR's. as for what liquid to use I use the CURA system with Micro Wiper sheets. I found this to be the best, especially highly rated in Japan. Even Bellamy Hunt aka Japan Camera Hunter endorsed it.
Doremus, no I don't disassemble the actual shutter, just the lens elements, so not inside the actual shutter mechanism, just the surface.
The alcohol is mostly for nasty Photpgrapher finger residue, but although alcohol doesn't kill mold spores supposedly, the wiping of the surface should help. Anything is better than nothing.
Thanks.
...and the alcohol will help evaporate any residual water. Spores are everywhere; you can't really avoid them, just make a dry enough environment so they can't grow.
Doremus
i don't, but i have thought that using straight collodion to clean the surface of a lens might be good, at least as good as white glue.
i saw a program once where someone was cleaning a giant slab of shale with fossils of flsh in it.
he? she? ( sorry can't remember ) poured a whole bunch of white glue on it. made sure it went into ever crevice,
every nook and every cranny. let it dry clear and then peeled the (clear) sheet off. the shale was beautifully clean.
i am guessing collodion might do something similar since it drys to celluloid ... or it might be to harsh, and glue might just be a mess.
Ever seen Sally Mann's lenses? I think she uses sandpaper.
Yes right and that's why her prints sell for 40k-50k a piece. I doubt she really wastes her time geeking out about having a perfectly clean lens. Anyway my camera repair guy worked in an optical lab for most of his life making fancy really big scientific shit like telescopes and he only uses Kimtech Kimwipes (non scratch chemical wipe tissues) and ROR spray(Residual Oil Remover) so that's what I use and it's what they also sell at the local photo supply here in Portland so that's what I use. Whether the lens is from 1869 or 1999. Also I try to clean as little as possible. Once when I buy the lens and hopefully years later and only if I have to. Cheers.Ever seen Sally Mann's lenses? I think she uses sandpaper.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...l_Remover.html
Got this from my Uncle who has used it for a few decades now. That and new cotton balls to clean his lenses.
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