fingerprints won't hurt anything on large format work. If it were a tiny sensor, sometimes they'll show up if direct light is falling on the lens.Originally Posted by senderoaburrido
fingerprints won't hurt anything on large format work. If it were a tiny sensor, sometimes they'll show up if direct light is falling on the lens.
Senderoabirrido -- I would expect fingerprints to degrade the image much more than dust.
Bob Salomon gives fine advice in post #4. Prevention is far more valuable than correction. Modern high quality multi-coated filters shouldn't cause the problems I encountered with protective filters decades ago. Lens hoods, especially the efficient ones for long lenses, also provide protection. I've rarely encountered hopeless problems due to dirty lenses (except for condensation in astro-photography), but two favorite lenses were retired due to excessive and careless cleaning in the field.
The thing is that it's necessary in my current case. Prevention is key, and were I able to afford glass filters for each lens, that is what I would do. Right now I have to tend to these obnoxious fingerprints on these glass filters I found in a bin, and the lens that I accidentally touched myself. Luckily it was only a small print (reached around to move the aperture, recoiled as soon as I realized what I had done). I'm just ashamed and frustrated and want to fix it in the case of this latter situation.
Isopropyl isn't too strong?
then again, what IS in those lens cleaning fluids?
No modern coatings would be affected by alcohol, but don't get it on any plastic parts.
Noticeable cleaning marks are not inevitable. Dust and hard rubbing are the culprits here. That explains the advice to blow dust off with a bulb blower or lift it off using a sable brush (using the brush only for that purpose and and never touching the bristles means it will be a long time before it becomes too greasy). Sable brushes are available at any art store, and sable is softer than camel hair by far.
Once the dust is lifted off, I use a lens-cleaning tissue (which is lint-free paper with no wood fibers) wetted with Residual Oil Remover. I find that to be the best of the lens cleaners. I then dry by lifting the moisture off with a clean lens-cleaning tissue. If the ROR didn't remove the fingerprint, buffing won't either, but buffing risks leaving marks.
Some old lenses with early coatings are quite soft. These require much more care.
New Heliopan filters are more expensive than most of my old lenses. And if I don't want to photograph through fingerprints on the lens, why would I want to photograph through fingerprints on a filter? The filter is more vulnerable, being often less protected by the lens barrel from stray finger touches. I do not use filters for lens protection, but I do shade lenses carefully.
In my experience, it takes a lot of dust on a properly shaded lens to affect the image, but one greasy fingerprint will make noticeable flare in a contrasty image.
I have been cleaning some of my lenses when needed for 40 years without causing cleaning marks. I don't need to clean them very often, but I'm not afraid to clean them when needed.
Rick "preferring a dirty lens to risky cleaning technique" Denney
I've always used a blower brush to remove any loose debris. I used to use lens cleaning solution on lens paper but now I use it on a Microfiber cloth.
The key is to not have to clean them. I use UV or clear filters on my lenses so I just have to clean the filters and very seldom the lens glass. I know some are opposed to shooting with a clear filter on the lens but I've never had a problem with it.
For many years I shot a Contax 35mm camera and 5 Zeiss lenses that I purchased in the 1980's. When I sold the lenses on Ebay to fund my large format hobby, I got top dollar for them and comments from the buyers of how nice they were. One buyer actually contacted me to ask how I cleaned them because the coatings on the glass looked like new. I just told him what I'm telling you.
I use alcohol to clean the entire lens and shutter, only on modern lenses/shutters, then use water after to clear the streaking, then use a micro-fiber cloth, then blow it all out and re-assemble.
I don't trust whomever owned things before me and worry about mold spores so I use alcohol on the entire thing just to be safe.
Keeping oil + contaminants off the surfaces is the key, so other stuff won't stick to it... If there is no tiny grit on them, they can be safely wiped, maybe with some of your breath (a free source of distilled water mist)... Most alcohol based cleaners absorb moisture (with minerals) from the air, and can grind those minerals into the surfaces with polishing...
For deep cleaning while the lenses are apart, someone gave me a case of Xerox copier lens/platen cleaner liquid that works well for deep cleaning... Badly hazed elements have gone into the ultrasonic cleaner to be cleaned... Distilled water + green cleaner have worked well as the ultrasonic solution...
Just make sure that all dust/grit is removed before any cleaning...
Steve K
First, never use a cleaning solution. No matter how you apply it, or how careful you are, eventually some will seep around the edge and cause problems with your lens.
Go to the health food store and get some capsules of Activated Charcoal soldas digestive aids. Break open some capsules int a 35mm cannister, or similar. take a Q tip and dip it into the powder, then shakee off as much as possible. Using this begin around the edge of your lens and always in a circular motion work your way to the center. Your enses will sparkle! I have used this for over 40 years and have never had a scratch on a lens, or moisture between the elements.
the acid in the fingerprints will eventually cause problems with the coating.
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