It might be easier to just remove the lens,take it outside and focus the sun on the sidewalk (like kids might do trying to burn a leaf). This will be the distance needed from lens to ground glass for infinity focus.
It might be easier to just remove the lens,take it outside and focus the sun on the sidewalk (like kids might do trying to burn a leaf). This will be the distance needed from lens to ground glass for infinity focus.
"the lens does not touch the GG....the lensboard is about 8cm from the film plane" You may have answered your own question. Schneider's page states the Flange Focal distance as 7.05 CM. Your going to have to get your lensboard closer than 8cm ie. leaning rear standard back, raising front, and leaning it into the rear as Louis suggested at the first.
I have done as Louis and Jim suggest (moving the front standard closer through movements) and looked through the ground glass and lens wide open (independent of the camera) and seen the lens focus on the screen,so I know it WILL focus.But not as I would wish.I would like to be able to set up and shoot quickly without re-arranging the standards,and anyway this lens should focus without being so recessed on this camera.I suspect a mis-matched rear element,which is unfortunate as the lens is a beauty and was cheap.Does anyone know where I can get a recessed board for field (Linhoff,Wista) in the US quite quickly and cheaply?(Used would be good)Also it needs the unusual 00 cut.I just bought a board for this lens and don't want to fork out so much again and have to send it off to Steve Grimes who is far from me (I'm in CA).Thank you all for your ideas and research.
Jorge.Thanks for your time.....here is exactly what is happening... the lens is mounted normally;wide angle bellows fitted...I roll the front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard as far as it will go....the lens does not touch the GG....the lensboard is about 8cm from the film plane.Now in my books I should be able to focus on something on a wide street scene.Even in my home I cannot get the thing to focus across the room (20 feet) or on anything between.I am using the maximum draw for this camera.As has been stated a recessed lensboard should not be needed for this focal length.It seems that it would solve the problem as a quarter turn of the focusing knob seems to be all that is needed....but I have just paid $50 for a new lensboard and had it drilled and am loath to search for a recessed one with a 00 cut.To me it seems that there is a problem with the rear element.....it was on sale at half price and I paid $325 for it,which raises my suspicians further.Anyone have any ideas?Most appreciated.
"the lens is mounted normally; wide angle bellows fitted...I roll the front stan dard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard"
I believe you must first tip the front standard back, as mentioned above. This w ill place the lens a few centimeters back from it's normal position.
I have this same lens, the price you paid is about right for a pretty nice used one (I think mine was about $350)(I'm assuming you have the chrome one). If I recall correctly, the rear cell of the lens is smaller and black and from profile looks like: ________ | | | |
instead of being conical like the front cell, but I could be mistaken.
When focused at infinity, the back element of mine is frighteningly close to the ground glass. On my Wisner Traditional, there is no way to focus this lens without base tilting the front standard back and bringing the lens board back into alignment with a front rise and axis tilt. My front standard almost sits inside the rear standard when focused at infinity (have to use a bag bellows). Don't know about your camera, but if it's a relatively normal field camera, I'd suspect you have the same requirement.
The ebony web page says that your camera will take Linhof lensboards. If you have a good used camera shop near you they would probably let you try one.
However, it is my understanding that a Super Anglon is a Biogon design. I don't think those designs are like the old Protar plasmats, I.E. you can't just swap elements around.
If you do not have the correct rear element, I suspect getting the lens to "focus" will not accomplish much unless you are into abstract images.
My 90mm is an F8 also and I suspect that it was built about the same time. I would be very suspicious if the rear element of your lens doesn't have the last four digits of the serial number on the outside of the barrel. Mine are very small about a 1/16 of an inch so look closely, they would be very hard to see if the white paint has rubbed off.
My understanding of the ebony web page is that there are two models of the SV45 one definately would not need a resessed lens board to use your lens. I can't tell about the other.
I bought one of these lenses (65mm F8 SA) a couple of weeks ago and even with bag bellows found that actually what was needed to focus infinity was a recessed lens board. Like you, I bought bag bellows to use with a std lens board but found that the standards touched on the monorail before I could get focus on very much so the bag bellows didnt help and were sent back. A recessed board has been perfect although restricting the movements a bit (no bad thing with this lens). Focus from infinity to real close up is very short.
Hi I have a 65 f8 SA and I use it on one of the older Toyo Field cameras. You say ".I roll the front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard as far as it will go....the lens does not touch the GG.....I roll the front standard ALL THE WAY BACK to the rear standard as far as it will go....the lens does not touch the GG....the lensboard is about 8cm from the film plane." Well I'm not sure of where to measure from but you need to get the lens to 6.5 cm to focus at infinity. If you can see light through the groundglass and can bring the lens from say 6 through 8 cm of bellows extension then you should either be able to focus or the lens is broken somehow.
So are you seeing light through the lens?
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks