Restoring a Century Universal 8x10

[RichSBV]

A nice old one with original leather bellows. In case you didn't kn ow, Graflex did vinyl replacement bellows in later years that held up exceptionally well. It was suggested to me way back when to use Camera Bellows in England for a replacement as they would be the only ones who could make a true replacement. That tight fitting nesting bellows is difficult to make and I've heard from people who were very disappointed in US made bellows replacements.

Your missing tightening screw is a standard size, I believe a #6 but could be a #8. I bought a dozen of them in different sizes from the hardware store as replacements and they're cheap. So you could easily buy one of each size to make sure as I did. A replacement is slightly larger than the original but still clears the frame below it, but just barely. I know, I didn't reply to your e-mail about that knob. Sorry, it's difficult to keep track of things around here and I did keep it with intentions of replying.

As far as the finish goes, I can only offer my own views. I have always been against refinishing of any sorts when it comes to classic cameras, especially CU's. As such, I never even looked into what the original finish was? If it is indeed shellac you can easily make a batch of liquid shellac and rub it onto the old finish. The alcohol will partially (or fully) dissolve the old shellac and mix the old and new together. I leave the finish as is and love the story it has to tell. Bare wood does get protected though.

In the same vein, the brass parts were originally painted that dark grey that most people seem to think is tarnished silver plate. If you absolutely need to have shiny brass, go for it. I'll take mine in the original grey, except for the one I have that is gold plated. Graflex would do almost anything for money ;-)

Enjoy it, but please leave it as original as possible...

[Michael Roberts]

Thanks Rich! We have a great hardware store in Boulder--McGuckin's--I'm sure they'll have the tightening knob if its a standard size.

Yeah, I would love to leave the finish as original as possible, so I'm looking for an alternative to sanding it down. Your suggestion of liquid shellac is a possibility. Also, the Formby's refinisher says it just takes off the old finish (I assume that means the shellac), doesn't need sanding, just wipe on and off, then apply tung oil. That sounds like it would bring the wood back close to original (can't be that easy, though, can it?).

[Michael Roberts]

Did they really paint the brass a dark grey?? Why???

[RichSBV]

Yes, it's painted. Only guesses could answer why. But as told to me, if memory serves, a new product at the time was Dupont's Duco laquer produced for automotive finishing. Since brass turns nasty colors after a while, it would normally be lacquered to preserve it's bright finish. Oddly, Gralfex decided to go with grey. No doubt they had some aesthetic in mind but who knows? They did want durability and they got that with auto paint. Since it was a hot item at the time, maybe it was also a selling point although I have never seen it mentioned in any ads?

[Michael Roberts]

Maybe the Depression had something to do with it....certainly sounds depressing.

[RichSBV]

On the other hand, if you're talking about a big camera used in the daylight where you have to look under a dark cloth and worry about stray light, wouldn't brite, shiny reflecting brass be a concern and distraction. Thinking of just functionality, dull painted non-reflecting brass would be much preferred over the shiny stuff. Okay, I like the looks of dark wood and shiny brass as much as anyone, but not on my cameras. Back in the day, I would have bought a CU ;-)

[Jon Wilson]

Pics of parts needed/missing:

Mike, let me know if you locate a replacement knob for the "3. missing knob for tightening second extension." I am missing that same part on my Century Universal.

Jon

[Michael Roberts]

Okay Jon. I'll try my local super hardware store this weekend. If that doesn't work, I'll try McMaster-Carr. Will let you know what I find (or not).

Rick, I agree. It may, probably did, look great when new. The alum rails aren't that bad looking now. But the brass on the back has oxidized so much mine looks black and pitted. I think the grey paint must have been much more attractive when new, as some folks have mistaken it for silver plating.

Picked up the Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher last night; it seems to be the same formula as the Formby's--wipe on, wipe off. So I'll try it on the base (the least visible and most scarred-up part of the camera) as a test.

[Michael Roberts]

BTW, still looking for a pin for the back. If anyone has one on a spare back that's already missing parts, please let me know. If I can't find a replacement, I suppose I can put brass pins in the top and bottom of the gg holder instead.....

[ic-racer]

BTW, still looking for a pin for the back. If anyone has one on a spare back that's already missing parts, please let me know. If I can't find a replacement, I suppose I can put brass pins in the top and bottom of the gg holder instead.....

I think K&S would have a SAE sized brass rod to make a new pin there.

K&S also has the brass sheet you need to make the ground glass holder. I was also missing that piece : http://www.largeformatphotography.in...3&postcount=22

In terms of the hardware, if I were doing it I'd keep it gray. I would probably find someone to powder coat the pieces (after I stripped and cleaned them). I think powder coat will get into the little spaces better than spraying.