Much Bad Luck with Pyrocat HD - May Need Another Developer

[sanking]

I agree with Ken, the things you mention as being different between the two runs should not have a large impact on image quality. It is a mystery to me. Please post when (and if) you discover the source.

I agree with Ron and Ken. None of the things you mentioned should make a big difference in results.

What really confuses me about this is that I would not know how to mix Pyrocat-HD to give the results you mention, i.e. under exposure and over development. You could mix the solution too strong and make it very energetic but that energy would work on all of the curve of the film, from the shadow to the highlights. And you could mix the solution to make it too weak, but in that case the results would be a thin and under developed negative.

In general the shadow density of a negative is determined by exposure. If the shadows are very thin and the highlights are over developed it is almost certain that the reason is under exposure in the camera.

Sandy

[Salty]

Meaning... on the failure run, I dump part A stock, then part B stock into 500ml distilled water, THEN mixed. In doing so, perhaps some concentrated part B came in contact with concentrated Part A and "deactivated" or "oxidized" the active part of the developer, which is the part A portion?

BTW, I have everything labelled A and B to avoid cross contamination.

It should be simple if you're using 500ml of distilled water.

You take 5ml of the "A" solution of Pyrocat HD in glycol and put it in the distilled water.
You refer to it as "Concentrated Part A" in the quoted portion above.

You then take 5ml of the "B" solution, which should be potassium carbonate and put it in the distilled water.
You refer to it as "Concentrated Part B."

Mix it all up, make sure it's the correct temperature and use it on your film.

When the developing is done, you dispose of the developer, it being "One Shot."

I don't understand the "BTW, I have everything labelled A and B to avoid cross contamination."

[Ron Marshall]

I'm sure you thought of this, but just to cover all of the bases:

In both runs did you develop the same number of sheets; use the same rotation speed; use the same amount of stock and the same dilution?

[eddie]

shoot again with different shutters. sounds like a shutter/aperture problem to me.

i mix my own pyro hd. never had any problems. i use water.

[Andre Noble]

I just ran two more runs. One run came out perfect, the other failed.

I quit this developer.

Back to Wimberley WD2D+. I may even try the Wimberly in my jobo at slowest rotation, otherwise I will use a conventional developer.

I have had many pyrocat failures with both hand inversion and in the Jobo.

[sanking]

I just ran two more runs. One run came out perfect, the other failed.

I quit this developer.

Back to Wimberley WD2D+. I may even try the Wimberly in my jobo at slowest rotation, otherwise I will use a conventional developer.

I have had many pyrocat failures with both hand inversion and in the Jobo.

Andre,

I looked at some of your old posts and see that you were having problems with Pyrocat-HD as far back as 2004. Now, when you tell me that one run came out pefect, the other failed, I think there is only one conclusion. There imust be a god of pyrocatechol and you have doine something to seriously anger this god.

Best of luck in finding a developer that works for you every time.

Sandy King

[Michael Kadillak]

Good Gawd.

I have used pyrocat in a number of variations for a number of years now in large quantities and have NEVER had a single failure - ever.

You need to go back to packaged D76 and excise the demons once and for all.

[Andre Noble]

I hear ya, Michael.

[pkphotog]

I've developed nearly 800 sheets of 4x5 in the last two years and every single one turned out perfectly. It's one of the easiest developers to use and by far the most economical.

[Jim Galli]

Good Gawd.

I have used pyrocat in a number of variations for a number of years now in large quantities and have NEVER had a single failure - ever.

Sheesh, me too. I'm so sloppy with this stuff I'm embarrassed to admit it. I've got one of those little cough syrup cups to measure the A and B into the tap water with. 800ml tap water, 8 or 16 ml with the little cup of both A and B and voila. This batch I'm using some 1940's Catechol that Brad S sent to me in it's original amber glass jar. Stir it in?? I just dump it in with the cough syrup cup and pour it in the jobo 30 - 45 seconds later. This stuff is as near to fool proof as any developer could ever be, and I'm the proof.