Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: dry matting/results

  1. #1

    dry matting/results

    I should know by now, however, I have had of recent the chance to observe a good number of my framed prints hung and have noticed an occassional variation "diff erence" in their presentation.

    That difference, when I observe the hung images from an angle as compared to vie wing the hung framed prints directly head on, occasionally shows a "bubble" or " unevenness" texture, "indentations" in the finished print where as others prints look "flush" with the matt, an evenness. In these unquestionable prints, there doesn't seem to be a "texture", just an "evenness" which is what I am striving for.

    I am assuming that the prints have been dry mounted for the correct "time". I am utilizing consistantly the same type of matt board for the most part. My papers , sometimes vary, but for the most part its multigrade Ilford fiber based. My ma tt bord,likewise, has been somewhat consistant. My temp on the dry mount press i s constant & correct.

    So, (if I take this line of reasoning) if I'm not dry mounting the print long en ough under the press, what other factors may contribute to this "difference", ie . the "bubbley look"?

    I'm in need of Enlightenment today! Thank you.

  2. #2
    Kevin Kolosky
    Join Date
    Jun 1999

    dry matting/results

    what are you using for a release paper. and how well are you cleaning the backs of these prints and the mount board before you apply the tissue.

  3. #3

    dry matting/results

    Raymond, if your drymount tissue is not adhering evenly, it may be that there was some moisture in the materials before drymounting. You should always pre-dry the materials before doing the actual mounting. Without the tissue, just put the board and print into the warm press and close the press for about 2 minutes, opening and closing quickly after the first ten seconds to release moisture. This will dry everything and you'll have much better results.

    To fix your current problems, you can usually put the mounted print back in the warm press and do it again (180 degrees works for my fiber prints), or if it's a small spot sometimes using the tacking iron (gently) takes care of it (always with a release paper between it and the print suface).

  4. #4
    Robert A. Zeichner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 1999
    Southfield, Michigan

    dry matting/results

    If you are using the correct time and temperature for the materials you are working with, I suggest the problem might be related to a grain of dirt having gotten sandwiched between the print and the mount board. Sometimes, not often, there will be a foreign glob of schmutz embedded in the dry mount tissue that can cause this. I usually remove it surgically with an X-acto knife or similar tool and find that the small void in the tissue has no visible affect on the appearance of the mounted print. Solving this problem after the fact can sometimes be accomplished by first "feeling" the bump to pinpoint the pea under the matress, so to speak, and then, with an unused #11 X-acto blade installed in your knife, carfully cut a slit as close to the location as possible and see if you can excise it without mangling the print. If successful, you will be able to reheat the mounted print and you'll never notice the damaged area. To avoid all of this, I recommend carefully inspecting the dry mount tissue by holding it up to the light and use a draftsman's whisk to dust hairs and other crap off all the surfaces. I also dust the surfaces of the protective 2-ply museum board that I use for release paper. Do this everytime you open the press and you will never have a problem. It's a dirty world out there!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Dec 1997
    Baraboo, Wisconsin

    dry matting/results

    This kind of thing can be caused by the method you use to attach the dry mount tissue to the print before puting everything in the dry mount press. If you start at the middle of the print with the tacking iron, and work your way outwards in a single line, or if you make an "X" with the tacking iron (i.e. two crossing lines from corner to corner of the tissue) the dry mount tissue can wrinkle or buckle under the print when everything is placed in the press, causing the uneven look you're talking about. In its book on dry mounting, Seal strongly states that you should not attach the tissue to the paper with long lines from corner to corner or in a single line from the middle to the edge but rather should just attach the tissue to the print at one small point on one of the edges of the print. The tissue will then lie flat against the print and the mat board and won't wrinkle or buckle in the dry mount press.
    Brian Ellis
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
    a mile away and you'll have their shoes.

Similar Threads

  1. Matting prints
    By Tom Westbrook in forum Business
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 16-Sep-2011, 09:42
  2. matting boders for 11x14
    By michael Allen in forum On Photography
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 2-Mar-2006, 10:25
  3. Mildew on Matting
    By Lisa_6054 in forum Darkroom: Film, Processing & Printing
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-Nov-2005, 05:35
  4. framing and matting
    By Martin_1505 in forum Cameras & Camera Accessories
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 20-Jun-2001, 13:05
  5. 105 Xenar results
    By John Hicks in forum Cameras & Camera Accessories
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 15-Aug-2000, 11:22


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts