post alternative techniques

[Dan Dozer]

Color Bromoil on liquid emulsion
8 x 10 Delta 100 shot with a little projection lens I got from Jim Galli.

[Rick A]

My first ever salt print using Formulary kit.
5x7 EDU Ultra 200 film @iso 100/PMK

[Rick A]

Salted Paper, untoned.
5x7 Ultra 200/PMK


Looks like I need to do a better job of coating.

[esearing]

Experimenting with Lobotype - 20 drops 40% Ammonium Ferric Oxalate solution + 20 drops 12% Silver Nitrate brush coated on Bergger COT 320. Similar to salt printing and VanDyke in that you coat the paper, expose using UV light source, and basically wash to develop, then fix. Negative FP4+ 5x12, Pryocat M.

[CreationBear]

Experimenting with Lobotype

Very cool--I've seen Wolfgang Moersch's work over on Flickr, but he has a way of making everything look good. For myself, I find I can't really differentiate between various POP prints once they're toned, but I'm curious as to whether a particular process dovetails with a particular kind of negative (not that I expect to produce any given two with the same density...)

[esearing]

I'm curious as to whether a particular process dovetails with a particular kind of negative (not that I expect to produce any given two with the same density...)

I think you could probably tailor the curves on a digi negative to be a good fit for each process. The lobotype is very easy to over expose. This was 2 minute exposure compared to the 30 minute exposure above for Salt. 3 minutes and my tree trunk is black with no detail. Its easy to fog the paper too with such sensitive emulsion. So it may come down to more of a question about the tones in the negative and probably a less busy subject would be more conducive to a fine print.

[CreationBear]

The lobotype is very easy to over expose.

Very interesting--I've completed my "box" using just six--rather than eight--UV tubes, so I'll be interested in what my times are for double-coated VDB's. Definitely a reconnaissance by fire approach, but I'll just think of it as doing my part for Bostick & Sullivan's bottom line.

[esearing]

Very interesting--I've completed my "box" using just six--rather than eight--UV tubes, so I'll be interested in what my times are for double-coated VDB's.

I made my uv box with 2 sets of legs Low and High. The high ones are threaded and give me about 6 inches between frame and bulb, low permanent legs are only 2 inches between bulb and frame. This made quite a difference when doing salt prints. I use a 4x5 step wedge for initial testing.

[awty]

Stand alone by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

Vandyke brown print on Bergger cot 160.
24 x30 cm camera 1890, Fuji 420 lens
Xray film developed in home made pyrocat hd
Home made Vandyke brown emulsion hand painted, camera negative contact print exposed to sun for 2.5 minutes.
Washed in water with citric acid.
Fixed in sodium thiosulfate.
Cleared in sodium suffice.

[Tin Can]

Love everything about this

Color, brush, title, and all

Bravo!

Stand alone by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

Vandyke brown print on Bergger cot 160.
24 x30 cm camera 1890, Fuji 420 lens
Xray film developed in home made pyrocat hd
Home made Vandyke brown emulsion hand painted, camera negative contact print exposed to sun for 2.5 minutes.
Washed in water with citric acid.
Fixed in sodium thiosulfate.
Cleared in sodium suffice.