post alternative techniques

[awty]

Thanks Mr Can

Crumbling beauty by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

Vandyke brown print on Bergger cot 160.
24 x30 cm camera 1890, Fuji 420 lens
Xray film developed in home made pyrocat hd
Home made Vandyke brown emulsion hand painted, camera negative contact print exposed to sun for 6 minutes.
Washed in water with citric acid.
Fixed in sodium thiosulfate.
Cleared in sodium suffice.

[DaveF]

Hi folks

Peony Argyrotype



Print: 26th March 2022 / 22ºC / 43% RH
10x8 contact print from Ilford FP4+ negative, trimmed slightly, on 14x11 Bergger Cot320
3mm Fotospeed sensitiver, 1 drop of tween20 solution (mix of 1 drop and 5 drops distilled water)
Paper dried 1hr5mins, no prehumidification
8’30” daylight exposure in full sun, 1:35pm

Developed in distilled water+lemon juice/tap water, hypo fix, final soak

Original exposure:

2nd June 2021, 2.15pm

Chamonix 810V, Rodenstock Apo-Sironar S 240mm f/5.6
Ilford FP4+ 125 (EI 64) 10x8
400mm bellows extension
11” f/5.6, Lee #23A light red filter

Stearman Press SP810, Pyrocat HD 2:2:100, 8’53” for N
Acetic acid stop, TF4 Fix, Hypoclear
Digitized after about a week of dry-down

[CreationBear]

Stearman Press SP810, Pyrocat HD 2:2:100, 8’53” for N

Very nice--I've very much appreciated your "alt floral" series.

I am curious about the times you're getting with the Stearman, though--I had thought it would be in the ballpark of "rotary," continuous agitation (e.g. Jobo, BTZS tubes etc.) but "panning for gold" seems to be two or three times faster with the same Pyrocat HD concentration. (Or perhaps I'm just overestimating how burly a negative you need for this particular process...)

[DaveF]

Thanks for this. Iirc I've lowered my dev times for Pyrocat HD 2:2:100 fairly substantially since I not only started making these contact prints, but subsequently did a film-speed and exposure test to ensure decent highlight retention and solid details from zone 3 on an actual argyrotype test print.
My initial negs, following I think Sandy King's info, were both rather drastically overdeveloped and also up to a stop underexposed. I should have mentioned the temperature but this would I think have been at 21ºC. In fact I just developed a couple of my last negs (1 roll 120 and 1x 10x8) with this developer last night and they both look good to me.

Now that I can't get Pyrocat HD here anymore, I'm moving to 510-Pyro - I'll start off with the recommended time for standard agitation and may do a full argyrotype test if this doesn't look right.

Obviously for scanning you can basically get away with anything, but for an alt-pro workflow I think it is a good idea to actually do full-zone test on an actual print (I did this with 120, using a sequence of 10 exposures; used a Jobo tank but the neg density looks the same as with the 10x8 and the results work!). I started off with BTZS tubes and moved to the Stearman trays not because they work better necessarily (I quite miss the spinning tubes thing!), but as a damn sight easier to use for anyone, such as me, not fortunate to actually have a darkroom (I used to have to have my Harrison tent set up to change the caps etc.).

Very nice--I've very much appreciated your "alt floral" series.

I am curious about the times you're getting with the Stearman, though--I had thought it would be in the ballpark of "rotary," continuous agitation (e.g. Jobo, BTZS tubes etc.) but "panning for gold" seems to be two or three times faster with the same Pyrocat HD concentration. (Or perhaps I'm just overestimating how burly a negative you need for this particular process...)

[CreationBear]

Excellent, that's very helpful--I must admit a suspicion that what sounds like ChemE at first devolves to Hermes Trismegistus pretty quickly when the conversation turns to agitation regimens. Just another reason to keep your oinochoai full and close at hand...

[awty]

Our Lady of the Arbour by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

Vandyke brown print on Bergger cot 160.
24 x30 cm camera 1890, Fuji 420 lens
Xray film developed in home made pyrocat hd
Home made Vandyke brown emulsion hand painted, camera negative contact print exposed to sun for 6 minutes.
Washed in water with citric acid.
Fixed in sodium thiosulfate.
Cleared in sodium suffice.

[DaveF]

Spinach Anthotype, Eglyws Cwyfan, Anglesey, Wales
(Will post scanned Provia version of same separately!)



ORIGINAL FILM EXPOSURE
9:55am, 11/04/22

Chamonix 810V, Nikkor-W 300mm f/5.6
Ilford FP4+ 10x8, EI 125
¼” f/45, front tilt
Lee 0.3 hard GND

FILM REVERSAL DEVELOPMENT
21/04/22
DIY B&W Reversal Development to make a slide for anthotype contact-printing
Stearman SP810 daylight tray then white Paterson open tray

Ingredients:
FD: 500ml Ilford Multigrade 1+5, 0.5g hypo, 12mins 20ºC
Second Dev: 500ml Ilford Multigrade 1+9
Bleach: 3% Hydrogen peroxide 300ml, 15.7g EDTA-4Na with 5.7g sodium bicarbonate, 11g Citric acid crystals.
Clearing Bath: 500ml water, 12.5g sodium sulphite

Stage 1 in SP810
FD: 12mins 20ºC, standard agitation
First Wash: 5mins with 5 changes of water
Bleach: 20ºC 9mins
Remove lid from tray
Clearing Bath: 2mins, continuous agitation
Second Wash: 5mins with 5 changes of water (easier to put lid back on for this)

Transfer sheet to white Paterson tray.

Stage 2: Re-exposure: 60secs about 45cm with 100watt bulb in inspection lamp;

Stage 3 in Paterson Tray
Second Dev: 6mins 20ºC
Third Wash: Ilford wash method
Fix: 500ml Ilford Rapid Fixer 5mins
Final Wash : 10 changes of water, continuous agitation (back in SP810)
Final rinse in Ilfotol, 1 min, in Paterson tray.

PRINT:

Emulsion:
Spinach leaves blitzed with some water, strained through muslin, 3 wet coats onto Bergger Cot320 paper, then left to dry for approx. 1 hour (still damp, but it didn’t really matter!)

Exposure:
4hrs in overcast conditions (1-5pm, 23/04/22), followed by 3hrs full sun 8-11am 24/04/22, Lotus 12x16 contact-printing frame; paper in Krystal seal A3 envelope to protect the sheet of film

Digitized with Nikon D800/85PC-E (stitch of three frames)

[johnasavoia]

Paper negative solargraph by biff tanager, on Flickr

2 week exposure paper negative solargraph on my Burke & James 5x7, 250/6.3 commercial congo @ f64. As is standard for paper negatives, no chemical developer or fixer, just scan the negative quickly, invert in PS, and slight contrast adjustments. I've done a series of 2 week exposures of this building site across from my apartment, and recently ordered a 4 stop ND filter with the hopes of doing an 8-10 month exposure. I have no idea how ND filters and solargraphs get along, so some tests must be done first I think.

Thank you for your time.

[Ironage]

Thanks for sharing your spinach anthotype process. First description I have seen of the process. Interesting that it is a positive process.

[Tin Can]

Really like!

the last 3 posted images

2 week exposure!

I once was careless with a box of OLD paper, and learned how useful it WAS...