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Thread: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

  1. #1

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    How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    I managed to develop my own E-6 on jobo, using Kodak's 5L E-6 kit. As I searched online, I don't find such a Kodak kit for C-41. What do I need to process c-41? I would like to have chemical in small amount.

  2. #2
    Henry Valtonen L&Scape's Avatar
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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    Tetenal have C-41 in 1L and 5L packs. I develop my 8x10 slides in their E-6 chemicals and I am happy with the results even though I do not have the most accurate temperature control.
    Henry Valtonen, Helsinki
    -----------------------
    8x10" landscapes

  3. #3

    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    Freestyle Photo sells C41 kits in several sizes

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/10123-...er?cat_id=1001

    I have used this kit with decent results with both 120 roll film and 4x5 sheets

    It is really pretty easy

  4. #4

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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    I'm just getting started to and looking at these guys.

    http://www.labdepot.com/

  5. #5

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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    E-6 is very easy in the Jobo. C-41 is rather difficult because the developer time (color developer) is very short, only 3 min 15 sec. 4x5" is OK in the Expert 3010 but any bigger sheet is risky. The 5x7" or 8x10" color negative sheet is so expensive and the risk of uneven development is so high that I send it to a dependable lab in Germany. Take that from a guy that has run his own JOBO Autolab for 20 years.

  6. #6

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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    http://www.4photolab.com
    http://www.colorservicesinc.com
    Those are dependable labs for big sheet C-41 processingin the US.

  7. #7
    Resident Heretic Bruce Watson's Avatar
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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    Head on over to APUG and spend some time in the Color Forum's archives. This topic has been discussed several times in the last few years and there are a number of interesting issues and solutions discussed there. The biggest issue perhaps is separate beach and fix vs. a combined "blix." There's at least one (retired) Kodak film engineer participating who makes excellent arguments for separating the bleach and fix steps. Well worth reading before you decide on a chemical kit.

    Bruce Watson

  8. #8
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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    There's been some discussion of this over at APUG. It remains pretty confusing for the beginner.

    At the Kodak website you can find lists of products that make up the C-41 processing sequence. But it's hard to find a vendor, at least on the web, who lists exactly the products that Kodak names as being appropriate for small-volume rotary processor use, sells them in a size convenient to the small user, and is willing to ship. You're left having to figure from among the products that do seem to be available, how to assemble a sequence that's functionally equivalent. Once you figure it out you're OK, but it's opaque for the beginner.

    The all-in-one kits are convenient, but Ron Mowrey is extremely skeptical about the blixes used in these kits - he strongly advises using separate bleach and fix as specified by Kodak.

    EDIT: My post crossed with Bruce's. Ron is the retired Kodak engineer that Bruce mentions.

  9. #9
    Richard M. Coda
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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    I have never done color processing in my Jobo (or anywhere else for that matter). Using the Unicolor Kit, after I mix the chemistry, can I portion it off into 8-oz. bottles and freeze it? I can only see myself using 8-oz at a time and I don't shoot much color.
    Photographs by Richard M. Coda
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  10. #10
    Bob
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    Re: How to start your own C-41 on jobo?

    Assuming you are in the US, Adorama sells and will ship what you need frrom Kodak, but not in a kit. You need developer, bleach, fixer and stabilizer. Look for the chemstry in one gallon and 5 liter sizes and make a full set from that and then consult Kodak's website for development instructions.

    I have had no issues with the Kodak chemistry at home, but get very poor results from the Tetenal powders with combined blix.

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