Swilf,
This is a beautiful result, thank you for posting it. You say that you use a Hitech #47 with the Cokin X-PRO system. However, the X-PRO system takes filters 130mm wide. I only see a 4 x 4in (100 x 100 mm) filter on BH Photo.
Swilf,
This is a beautiful result, thank you for posting it. You say that you use a Hitech #47 with the Cokin X-PRO system. However, the X-PRO system takes filters 130mm wide. I only see a 4 x 4in (100 x 100 mm) filter on BH Photo.
Glad you like it. No, I didn't use Cokin X-Pro, I used Cokin P, but there should be no difference. After all, they are just sheets of plastic cut to size. And we are too far anyway from meeting Luther-Ives condition to care about filters' spectral densities, exact brands or Wratten numbers. Almost any deep red, blue and green should be OK. The deeper the better: dense filters produce saturated colors.
As for film, I used TMX. I suggest generous bracketing for red and for blue.
So this is really intriguing me and I have some ideas that I would love to do this with.
There is 19 pages of this thread though, so can someone sum up the pertinent info? Like, what the specific 3 filters you would need for this are and what filter factor to use for the film when using them? There was lots of discussion and it was a bit confusing as to what was right.
You really only need two filters. For example, you might have one Red image, one Green, and one RGB (panchromatic). You can derive the blue record with:
B = RGB - (R+G);
The blue filter is quite dark, which means you're either exposing for longer or living with a thin negative. This gets around that limitation.
Another thing to try would be orthochromatic (blue-sensitive) film for the B record.
A simple trick is to use TMX100 for R & G, but TMY400 for B. You will need to dev B
neg longer, but it's not too diffcult to match the curves. Also, a 47 filter is not too
bad and about a stop faster than the ideal 47B.
I will try just taking an R and G and subtracting it from an RGB exposure (which is convenient to have a "straight" b&w). Kind of reminds me of some of the audio tricks we use for stereo images in recording.
Do you think an X1 green filter will work instead of a stronger green filter? I don't have a #58 and don't feel like buying a $50 filter for simply testing this idea.
Thanks!
Hi everybody.
I finally managed to read the whole thread. Separation is indeed a very interesting technique.
Now, a Sinar 4-lens board with lenses crossed my way accidentially and I wasnŽt able to resist. IŽll try to start one-shot seperation with it on 4x5. I donŽt expect the Schneider 125/8 Radionars to be astounding, but it is a start. Hopefully I can manage to get rid of the parrallax-error using photoshop.
I will report here once my project is going to start.
Best regards,
Tobias
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