Interesting, thanks.
I have tried searching for a while now, but cant really find the/a answer to my question.
I live in Norway, do anyone know of a company that ships to Norway, that be from the US or Europe ?
Taulen, get in contact with FomaFoto (http://www.fomafoto.com/). They are somewhere in Norway and they distribute films and papers made by Foma Bohemia. They don't seem to distribute Foma x-ray films, but perhaps they will be able to inform you where to get them in Norway, or even get some for you.
Another possibility is your local hospital. Ask them where they buy their x-ray film. They even could have some out-of-date boxes that they could be willing to give you.
Good luck!
Luke, it's quite easy to do. Just lay the negative down on a sheet of glass with the side of the film that was facing the back of the film holder when you made the exposure. Tape down the edges of the negative with duct tape. Brush on some household bleach with a foam brush. The emulsion comes off quite quickly. Pick up the sheet of glass with the negative taped to it and give it a rinse. Hold it up to inspect that all emulsion has been removed. Remove the negative and give it a good wash. By removing the emulsion on one side you have reduced the negatives density range by half. You may have to develop your film for much longer before stripping in order to get back the lost density range. I don't strip the emulsion for carbon transfer printing.Hello you Guys where Talking about striping One side of the Film , can someone Tell me how this Works or how ans when this is done?
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/andy8x10
Flickr Site: https://www.flickr.com/photos/62974341@N02/
I'm completely new to both large format photography and X-ray film.
Have been experimenting with Fuji RX-U
My first 4 exposures were this plane at 50, 100, 200, & 400 ISO. I made the mistake (I think) of developing each exposure for a different time, the result is each negative is practically identical. No perceivable lack or increase of detail in highlights or shadowsm or massive variance of contrast.
I'm repeating the test again but this time with 2 shots at each ISO, half to be developed at 120secs, and the other half for 480 seconds.
The prior 4 were 90, 120, 180 & 240 secs respectively.
here is one i shot today, using green sensitive xray film rated at 100, calumet c1 camera, 14 in. petzval, yellow no.12 filter
just a tree by J. Golden, on Flickr
"WOW! Now thats a big camera. By the way, how many megapixels is that thing?"
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