Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Ron McElroy]

14x17 double-sided, green latitude. Developed in XTol-R.

Andrew O'Neill[/url], on Flickr

Nice one Andrew

[Bernard_L]

On page #638, posting #6378, Tim Meisburger summarized a lot of information and wrote a "primer" for shooting with X-Ray film.

If you wish to stray beyond what he has summarized, then reading the entire thread and taking notes is about the best possible solution to see what others have done.

Useful info but... For the record. I found it, but Page 637 Post 6369

[Kino]

The page/post numbers have changed for unknown reasons (probably housekeeping issues) several times.

[Mike_E]

I rate it at 50, otherwise you don't get enough shadow detail, then I develop with gentle D23, sort of let the highlights take care of themselves, since I'm scanning, not printing. Know that since the film is not sensitive to red, i.e. warm colors, it won't "see" tungsten light as very strong at all. I don't know by how much. Adding two or even three stops might be a good idea.

This is my first xray shot. https://www.flickr.com/photos/michae...in/dateposted/ There's a complete explanation of what I did underneath. Eventually I switched to some very mild agitation about once a minute, that's the only change. I use hangers for development--you will find that the stuff has about the scratch-resistance of jello when it's wet. That particular photo was "scanned" by holding the hanger up to the sky and shooting the neg with my phone camera then running it through Photoshop.

Almost all of the photos in that particular Flickr group are shot on xray film.

Is that an Agfa-Ansco universal? I have one with the same shape brass front standard brace, you wouldn't by chance know the year range on yours?

Nice shots by the way.

[Daniel Unkefer]

First Test of NPL 8x10 HRU 1000mm F32 18 pops Octobox by Nokton48, on Flickr

First test of Negative Lab Pro, a program which converts large format negatives (small ones too) into nice looking positives. This is 8x10 Fuji HRU XRAY Film, D23 replenished. Neg copied with Sony Nex-7 (36mp) with 50mm Zeiss F2.8 Touit, an AWESOME optic. Big learning curve ahead

[Andrew O'Neill]

Working with 14x17 and making a Salt print...

[Andrew O'Neill]

14x17 Carbon Transfer from XRAY...

St. Peter's, Monte Creek, BC by Andrew O'Neill, on Flickr

[Medvedev_Dop]

Too late, I now bought EV. But when I scratch together some money I will buy 2000 also.

I read about your research on MIN-R in this thread. thanks for the helpful information about the layers. I also use expired KODAk MIN-R s and Carestream Min-R s (as I understand it, it's the same thing +-). and I would like to know
how you develop this film?
at some point I realized that I had problems with the evenness of the development (I did tests with evenly exposured of the sheet / different methods of agitation / different developers / vertical development / stand) and still could not completely get rid of the unevenness of densitys.it looks like divorces/waves/turbulence. and changing the type of agitation - changes the "pattern" of unevenness. the film without test exposure is completely transparent after development.
my basic workflow: D-23 1:2 10m 20° flat-bottom tray, I lower the sheet with the primary emulsion up, for the first 30 seconds there is constant agitation, then clockwise N E S W at 5 seconds every 30 seconds.stop.fx.
...Maybe the sheet still needs to be turned over when developing, considering that there is an emulsion on the other side too..

[Andrew O'Neill]

Double-sided X-RAY does need to be flipped over in the developer when using flat-bottomed trays, in my experience.

[Eugen Mezei]

I also use D23 but diluted 1+3 and with less agitation (first half minute constant and than every 3 minutes a short shake).
You could try to use an oversized tray if you have turbulences. The thinking behind this is that in a narrow tray you have vawes reflecting from the walls of the tray.