Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[George E. Sheils]

Hi folks,

I have used Fuji HRU x-ray film in Rodinal (R09) 1:200 for 11 minutes at 20 degrees C with good results. However, I ran out of R09 and have a bottle of Ilfotec DDX handy. Does anybody know or have any details on times and dilution for HRU in DDX?

Thanks in advance,
George.

[Tin Can]

https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

I use these charts for a start

Hi folks,

I have used Fuji HRU x-ray film in Rodinal (R09) 1:200 for 11 minutes at 20 degrees C with good results. However, I ran out of R09 and have a bottle of Ilfotec DDX handy. Does anybody know or have any details on times and dilution for HRU in DDX?

Thanks in advance,
George.

[George E. Sheils]

Thanks TC.

I usually use the Massive Dev Chart but couldn't see anything on it that featured DDX. I know that i can develop by inspection and go from there but I didn't want to re-invent the wheel if someone already has a tried and trusted dilution for the HRU and DDX combination.

[Tin Can]

You can do it. Aren't you a tech writer for this industry?

I never run out of Rodinol and if I did I would use Ilford PQ

[pitotshock]

First thing, this thread is insane. Don't know if I have enough time in my life to make it through all of this. Next, thanks for those who have put summary posts in to help us relative newcomers..

I jumped in and ordered a couple of boxes of 8x10 to give it a try this summer. Still working on the development sequence just yet, but I'm planning on using dip tank hangers in 8x10 to reduce scratching. I have the old Kodak rubber tanks, but at 4gal solution each that is a lot of chems and I doubt I'm going do enough shooting to make it worth while. I'm looking to get the smaller 1 gal stainless type or I'll make my own out of acrylic. We'll see how that goes.

[MAubrey]

First thing, this thread is insane. Don't know if I have enough time in my life to make it through all of this. Next, thanks for those who have put summary posts in to help us relative newcomers..

I jumped in and ordered a couple of boxes of 8x10 to give it a try this summer. Still working on the development sequence just yet, but I'm planning on using dip tank hangers in 8x10 to reduce scratching. I have the old Kodak rubber tanks, but at 4gal solution each that is a lot of chems and I doubt I'm going do enough shooting to make it worth while. I'm looking to get the smaller 1 gal stainless type or I'll make my own out of acrylic. We'll see how that goes.

I made an Acrylic 1 gal talk for 11x14 that works well. Still a lot of developer, but if I expose all three of my holders, it comes out alright.

[chris73]

Just to add my 1 cent tip as i think it was never mentioned before.
For 1 negative at a time, i use stryrofoam trays with great success so far, as they are soft and lightweight.

[arri]

I have a lot of old and antique lenses and after cleaning an adjusting I have to test´em.
For this I´am using the Fujifilm UM-MA in 18x24cm or cut it to 4x 9x12cm sheets with a Dahle trimmer.
I tested it with some different developers but the real best for it is the Klaus Wehner Developer, a new formular Agfa Atomal.

Developing times are equal to the ilford FP4+
I´am using a Tetenal colour drum to develope two sheets of 18x24cm

After a lot of test shots I really like this film. With uncoated lenses it has very good halftones, it shows no grain and is easy to handle. It´s a sSingle coated x-ray film.
With MC coated lenses the contrasts are growing up and the grey scale is limited, single coated maybe works, very good results I got with a Schneider Symmar 300mm and an Rodenstock Eurygon 300mm f/4.5

Here´s a sample made with an over 100 years old Emil Busch Aplanat 260mm f/7.5 @f/16. No camera movements.
Sinar Norma 18x24cm, rear lens shutter, 1/2sec.
Wehner Developer, 8.5min. Delution 15ml+15ml+270ml

[Tin Can]

Another thought about X-Ray, is it is very modern film that is also Orthochromatic which is close to ancient film 'look'

so our ageless gear has correct film

I beleive the members shouting about fresh film, frozen film, Plates

DIY emulsions

want others to save...

We are in a moment in time before film and chemistry is banned World Wide

We have 2525 song

https://youtu.be/izQB2-Kmiic

[Alan Townsend]

Greetings from a new user of this forum.

I just took the plunge and received a 100 sheet box of 8x10 Fuji HR-U green two sided film from an ebay dealer, and have had good early results cutting down to 4x5 and processing in D23 1:3 8-10 min., although somewhat dense. One thing I've learned from researching the green films, is that the blue base is partly for reducing eye strain, but also to reduce feedback from the phosphors on one side of the film with the emulsion on the other side, which makes sense. I assume, therefore, that in photography use, sharper results would occur when using a yellow, green, or orange filter which would reduce the amount of bluish light passing through the film. The fuzziness of these films is concerning to me. My initial impression of my negatives is how disturbing the blue base is to me, and how unimpressed I am with sharpness using a 10x loupe.

My testing with a K2 yellow filter gives me a 1 stop exposure loss, and a mild impression of better detail. Can others comment on this please? I have read backwards through this thread about 7 or 8 years and found nothing on this. I do mostly woodland landscape photography.

I processed using sandwich sized zip lock bags, which worked very well and gave zero scratches. In the past, I've used Arista Ortho Litho 3.0 costing 40 cents per sheet and Injet Media Regency Royal which is very similar, but costing 20 cents per sheet (4x5). Based on testing, I use them both at ei2, process in D23 1:7 for 2-4 minutes using constant agitation. I also use them for darkroom work. These types of film worked well for me in southern Arizona, but not so well in the midwest woodlands where there is so much less light. I much prefer the 10 cents per sheet cost of Fuji HR-U, the much higher speed (100), and the processing ease of being much lower in contrast, so don't mind the 2-sided fragility.

My plan is to routinely process using my old Doran Sheet Film daylight tank to process 12 sheets at a time using D23 1:7 in 10-12 minute range. I can develop, fix, wash, and dry without removing the fims using a small fan circulating air into the tank lying on its side. My observation is that the xray film is sensitive to over agitation. The ortho litho films are the opposite, being sensitive to under agitation when processed for low contrast. Those old plastic 4x5 processing tanks like the Doran or Yankee are wonderful provided you don't agitate hardly at all. This sure is fun