Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Tin Can]

The phone scanner has been done some time ago, but it's crap. Look here for the DIY DSLR scanner thread, very interesting.

Welcome, I'm told that both Viewscan and SilverFast support a lot of old model scanners (even some with SCSI ports for cables) so if ever Epson or anyone else fails to support an OS upgrade, I think it's still a safe bet to use those other programs for many years.

However at the quality if my iPhone camera, I've wondered if designing a simpler system where you deposit your phone into a machine and it "docks" with it and using that can scan hah! Not this generation but soon I think. Scary.

[Gregg Obst]

Anyway, once I have them all scanned, I had to Google it to figure it out, but you simply open up Photoshop, I happened to have CS6 even though I have only used it a few times, I got a great deal on it when upgrading the light room and said what the heck let me get it just in case.

Anyway you simply open up all the files at once I mean within Photoshop you open them they show up as Tabs. Then you go to the top of the screen and I believe it's under the file, you then scroll down to select the automate option, and there is some kind of selection or stitching, but it's not called stitching it's called something else, and of course the word escaped my mind at this time, but it's obvious, like "combine" or something, anyway I select auto and it just figures it out for me, I don't have to collage it or anything. It uses pattern recognition.

The option is called "Photomerge" in Photoshop. Another way to get that to work is if you launch Adobe Bridge CS (comes with Photoshop CS) and select the scanned portions of the image (file_001.tif, file_002.tif, etc) by holding down the control key and clicking on each one then in the tools menu select Photoshop, then PhotoMerge, it will launch a dialog box showing your selected scanned images. Just hit OK on that dialog box and it will bring in each scanned portion of the image and place it on it's own layer. Then from the Layers menu select "Merge Visible" then "Flatten Image" and save the fully merged image to disk. You can then go back to the window that has Adobe Bridge open and delete the individual scanned portions of the image since you no longer need those files.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Ektascan has the same insane density as the double-sided stuff, so how does increasing exposure cut down on the contrast?

More exposure, less development. One could also pre-expose the film. That's a great way to cut contrast.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I find many people who are using X-ray film, are not compensating for reciprocity effect.

[ScottPhotoCo]

Finally had a chance to continue my testing. Here are my four latest shots with details. All were processed in a Jobo tank with continuous agitation for 7m using Adinol (25mL:1L) at 68 degrees. No presoak.


XRay_Test_Jobo_ScottPhotoCo_0214-4_WM by ScottPhoto.co, on Flickr
Camera: Deardorff v8
Lens: 16.5" Goerz Artar
Film: Kodak Ektascan B/RA (metered at 80iso)
Exposure: 1s at f16


XRay_Test_Jobo_ScottPhotoCo_0214-2_WM by ScottPhoto.co, on Flickr
Camera: Deardorff v8
Lens: 16.5" Goerz Artar
Film: Kodak Ektascan B/RA (metered at 80iso)
Exposure: 1s at f22


XRay_Test_Jobo_ScottPhotoCo_0214-3_WM by ScottPhoto.co, on Flickr
Camera: Deardorff v8
Lens: 15x12 Ross
Film: Kodak Ektascan B/RA (metered at 80iso)
Exposure: 1/20s at f8


XRay_Test_Jobo_ScottPhotoCo_0214-1_WM by ScottPhoto.co, on Flickr
Camera: Deardorff v8
Lens: 15x12 Ross
Film: Kodak Ektascan B/RA (metered at 80iso)
Exposure: 1.2s at f8

These were only shot for testing and not for content.

[Jody_S]

I find many people who are using X-ray film, are not compensating for reciprocity effect.

I found I didn't have to worry much about it with Fuji down to 20 seconds or so, but with Agfa it seems different. I haven't done any formal testing, just with exposures in the 5min or more range, I give it a lot more than the Fuji.

[Carl J]

The option is called "Photomerge" in Photoshop. Another way to get that to work is if you launch Adobe Bridge CS (comes with Photoshop CS) and select the scanned portions of the image (file_001.tif, file_002.tif, etc) by holding down the control key and clicking on each one then in the tools menu select Photoshop, then PhotoMerge, it will launch a dialog box showing your selected scanned images. Just hit OK on that dialog box and it will bring in each scanned portion of the image and place it on it's own layer. Then from the Layers menu select "Merge Visible" then "Flatten Image" and save the fully merged image to disk. You can then go back to the window that has Adobe Bridge open and delete the individual scanned portions of the image since you no longer need those files.

Thanks all for the Photomerge info. I don't have Photoshop (have been using Pixelmator) but can probably get my hands on a copy....

[gbogatko]

More exposure, less development. One could also pre-expose the film. That's a great way to cut contrast.

Ah. Beware of mottling. One can under develop too much.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yes, mottling can creep in if one is not careful. Agitate more, or dilute developer a tad more to extend dev time. I never get mottling with single-sided xray as I develop in BTZS tubes. In a tray however, one should be aware. Thanks for bringing that up, gbogatko.

[grzybu]

Tonight I've tried to develop x-ray negative in caffenol without agitation. Just some initial moving of tray on the begining and and the very end of the process.
Looks fine and I don't have to stay in the bathroom for 15min Well, to be sure I could go once or twice and move the tray a bit. Just in case.