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Thread: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

  1. #2441

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by gbogatko View Post
    ...
    Developer: d23 (stoeckler) 2-bath: bath 1: 5mg metol, 100mg sodium sulfite - bath 2: 10mg borax. One liter each.
    Bath 1: 2 min. Bath 2: 5 minutes.
    No Stripping.

    After bath 1, the very-highs are just starting to appear. Bath 2 brings the highs up a little more, but really works on the shadows.
    The result is a neg that is usable for easy scanning -- the density is such that the highs aren't screaming, and that's without stripping. I havn't tried it yet, but I imagine it'll do well at grade 1 or 2 as well.

    I've played with other developers such as d76 and dektol and this 2-bath method is the best I've found so far.
    Good news is that the chemicals -- metol and sodium sulfite -- are cheap and very available in bulk. And Borax is normal 20-mule-team.

    George
    George!
    It is possible you are misswrote the receipt? Or it's an 1:1000 dilution?
    My stoeckler D-23 receipt is same as you wrote but in grams instead milligrams...
    Thanks!

  2. #2442
    David
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Hi to everyone following this thread
    Here is my first x ray film test Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS (green sensitive) I have some experience with high contrast technical film so I have decided to use diluted paper developer. My choice was neutol 1:30 Developed in a tray with red light on for 3:00 minutes. The result looks promissing


  3. #2443

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Posted this in an older x-ray thread and did not get any feedback. I have a real "x-ray newbie" question (or two). I recently acquired a hundred sheet box of GE/Agfa Structurix D4 5x7 film. First I noticed that there is no notch code (duh!), and after research found that it has emulsions on both sides of the base (see attachment), but I'm not sure the film is completely symmetrical - the brochure says "To achieve a rugged surface, the top layer has received the matting agent." Which "top layer" - are there two top layers?

    Anyway, should I assume that it doesn't matter how I load this in the film holders with the double emulsions?

    Does anyone else have firsthand experience with this particular x-ray film? I haven't seen it referenced in any of the x-ray image threads, other than one mention and no actual shots. Any other insights about handling this film would be appreciated.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks,

  4. #2444

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Wow, great looking image czmielek.
    Beginners luck ??

  5. #2445
    David
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Most of x-ray films have emulsion on both sides with very few exeptions. This means they are very easily scratched. My Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS has one side a little more mated than the other. It is very hard to notice before the development but easier after. This may be the case with your film djdister. I have noticed absolutely no diference in image quality shooting on either side so it does not matter how you put it into the holders.

  6. #2446

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by ScottPhotoCo View Post
    Ok, finally got an x-ray film image that makes me happy.

    12" Dagor + Deardorff V8 + Kodak Mammography Film
    7 minutes at 68 degrees. Rodinal. Trays.
    Nice one, indeed

  7. #2447

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by czmielek View Post
    Hi to everyone following this thread
    Here is my first x ray film test Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS (green sensitive) I have some experience with high contrast technical film so I have decided to use diluted paper developer. My choice was neutol 1:30 Developed in a tray with red light on for 3:00 minutes. The result looks promissing
    Back in days of my childhood we used same methol hydrochinon (spelling is off, i am sure) developer for both paper and film. Kept whole process way tidier

  8. #2448
    David
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Diluted paper developers are very helpful with high contrast films. In my example I see some uneven development on the window frame and the wall probably due to short development time. I will try to keep it in a tray for 1 minute longer next time.

  9. #2449

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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film

    Quote Originally Posted by czmielek View Post
    Most of x-ray films have emulsion on both sides with very few exeptions. This means they are very easily scratched. My Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS has one side a little more mated than the other. It is very hard to notice before the development but easier after. This may be the case with your film djdister. I have noticed absolutely no diference in image quality shooting on either side so it does not matter how you put it into the holders.
    Thanks for the note. In the light, one emulsion side does look a bit darker than the other, but I'll just go and shoot some sheets and see what I get.

  10. #2450
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    Re: Images shot on X-ray film – Continuous / Drum Processing

    Hello all!

    As I don't have a dedicated darkroom space (small house in SoCal) it is very time consuming to set-up and tear down my bathroom darkroom to tray process my x-ray film. I have been wanting to try drum processing for a bit so I picked up a Jobo Expert Drum and a manual roller to give it a shot. I'm using Kodak Mammography film (Ektascan) so I don't need to worry about 2-sided emulsion. I have been using Rodinal/Adonal at 100:1 and getting fairly good (but not consistent) results in the trays.

    Have any of you tried drum + continuous agitation to process your x-ray film?

    I figure I'll try the following:
    1. Rodinal 100:1 for 9 minutes at 20 degrees. 5 minute pre-soak.
    2. XTOL 1:1 for 7 minutes at 20 degrees. No pre-soak.


    I also have HC-110 (liquid form) and D-76 (powder form) here as possibilities.


    Any other suggestions?

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