Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Tin Can]

Ok, I am starting to get something. This is just a boring focus test, but it is so much more. This is 8X10 Kodak CSG shot taped inside a copy camera, it took me all day to adjust T distance for the GG and wacky huge holder. Shot with RD Artar 19" wide open. This camera can hold 11X14 and maybe a little bigger.

I am just happy to see focus this good. Also 1/100 RO9 10 min with little agit.

[BarryS]

I've had a bit of time to return to my mammo film experiments. Mammo film is slow and very contrasty, and it builds density brutally fast. I've been studying low contrast developers and this is from my first attempts at getting the density in a manageable range for silver gelatin prints. I normally use Pyrocat HD in a Jobo at 1:1:100 and I lowered the developing agent and doubled the carbonate as per some advice in the Film Developing Cookbook. This is 18x24 Fuji AD-M film in 1:4:200 Pyrocat HD, rotary processed for 5 minutes at 70 F. The density is starting to get reasonable, but I may have lost film speed--looks like my EI is 3 or 6. I may be experiencing reciprocity, but in any case the EI is very low. My further experiments will try to up the film speed without increasing contrast.

I tried my brand new 210mm Graphic Kowa--this lens is super sharp, very small, and has a ton of extra coverage on 8x10.


Great Seneca

[Tin Can]

Test 2 today. Almost everything the same, notice the tape mark at top, but I get all the film, no holder marks on the sides. f45 10 seconds, straight out of scanner. No adjustments or spotting.

[gdi]

Wow! nice image, and I love how it looks like a miniature!

Thanks Randy, I am so glad I found this info on Xray film - 50 cents a sheet makes it a lot easier to practice and experiment than 4 dollars a sheet!

Also, seeing your self portrait makes me want to try it - but my darn lens require such a long release plunger that my bulb release won't trip it!!

[SergeiR]

8x10 , kodak, csg, rodinal 1+100 for 5:30


Simple things: eggs and eggshells by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

that moment when f22 isnt enough.. 20s exposure

[Tin Can]

8X10 Kodak CSG strobes, something going on by right eye.

[HT Finley]

First time poster here, jumping into what appears to be a very long thread on the use of X-Ray film in 8x10. Having just acquired a Japanese made Horseman from maybe the 70's or 80's, I will be going out in the field and putting this beast on my Tiltall. Don't laugh, it actually holds it up, barely. But it's all I can afford. The only lens I have to put on it is my 210 Symmar-S I bought new in 1980. Hope it will cover it, and hate it being wide angle on 8x10, but it's all I've got.
Anyway I'm apparently jumping on the X-Ray film and Pyrocat wagon. Green sensitive, but don't know what film to buy. I want those cheap 50-cent negatives. It looks like all the X-Ray film out there is emulsion coated on both sides. I don't suppose there's any way around that?
I've done enough due diligence to avoid forcing you folks to re-cover old ground, but at the same time would like to avoid going through the 2000 pages of this long thread. Anybody care to bring me up to sped on what film to buy for reasonable speed for scenic-style work? Thank you.

[Tin Can]

WE are including most critical info right with the images. Save yourself a lot of headache and read this entire thread.

First time poster here, jumping into what appears to be a very long thread on the use of X-Ray film in 8x10. Having just acquired a Japanese made Horseman from maybe the 70's or 80's, I will be going out in the field and putting this beast on my Tiltall. Don't laugh, it actually holds it up, barely. But it's all I can afford. The only lens I have to put on it is my 210 Symmar-S I bought new in 1980. Hope it will cover it, and hate it being wide angle on 8x10, but it's all I've got.
Anyway I'm apparently jumping on the X-Ray film and Pyrocat wagon. Green sensitive, but don't know what film to buy. I want those cheap 50-cent negatives. It looks like all the X-Ray film out there is emulsion coated on both sides. I don't suppose there's any way around that?
I've done enough due diligence to avoid forcing you folks to re-cover old ground, but at the same time would like to avoid going through the 2000 pages of this long thread. Anybody care to bring me up to sped on what film to buy for reasonable speed for scenic-style work? Thank you.

[HT Finley]

Thanks--up to page 34 an am not gleaning a great deal so far. A lot -f back-and-forth one liners between guys who obviously know one another, but nothing definitive so far. Found a link for some Kodak one-sided at $80 a box. Learned mammography film is also one sided, but no indication as to speed. ASA 50 and faster would be nice. Like the idea of loading it in my unicolor/Beseler drums and turning on the rotator. Not at all wild about having to do a stripping procedure on 2-sided stuff.
Seems some of these brands are nearly panchromatic, but know not which.

[Tin Can]

I am using kodak CSG from CSXonline.com double sided at 80 asa, not stripping.

Thanks--up to page 34 an am not gleaning a great deal so far. A lot -f back-and-forth one liners between guys who obviously know one another, but nothing definitive so far. Found a link for some Kodak one-sided at $80 a box. Learned mammography film is also one sided, but no indication as to speed. ASA 50 and faster would be nice. Like the idea of loading it in my unicolor/Beseler drums and turning on the rotator. Not at all wild about having to do a stripping procedure on 2-sided stuff.
Seems some of these brands are nearly panchromatic, but know not which.