Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Tin Can]

Yes, but I forget who or what. Look for the Wiki coming in 2015.

[Barry Kirsten]

I agree that fogging before the film got into the camera is the most likely bet. The shot posted by Raffay is dark grey, not black, indicating heavy fog as opposed to gross overexposure. Also there would be some hint of an image at this level of 'exposure' if this had happened in the camera.

Barry.

Well, the neg is black = exposure + development



Either the film is fogged before it ever got to the camera, or else it was exposed in camera. If enough light reaches the film, it will just go completely black?

I'm no expert on xray film (or anything!), so YMMV, but I would do two things:

1. handle and develop a new piece in the same way (without exposure). If it looks the same then the handling or film is suspect
2. take a second piece of the same film and take a shot and develop and see how it works.

I think the same OP had an issue with an iphone safelight, could be the film got fogged somewhere along the line?

Let us know how you get on!!

Fran

[rdelung]

This is the unfortunate negative, any thoughts on what could have gone so wrong.

Attachment 94733

Cheers

Raffay

First I would check that the chemicals are all good! Second, If the developer temp. is to low--than the incomplete development process plus fixing can give you a gray film.
Just the thoughts of a X-Ray Tech. since 1975. Hope this helps. Thanks, R.Delung

[Randy]

Apologies if this has been asked before but 87 pages is a lot to trawl through!

Has anyone played with coloured filters and the blue sensitive film? I am interested in enhancing skies giving more contrast between the clouds and sky as I often get skies that are almost plain white when using blue sensitive Kodak Industrex MX125.

Ian, Sergei (sp) I believe has some images in this thread that were taken through, perhaps, a yellow/green filter...? I seem to remember one image of a building and cars with a nice dark sky above. I have yet to play with filters myself. I shoot almost exclusively green latitude film. I know for a fact that it is sensitive to red, but perhaps just not very sensitive.

[Ian Greenhalgh]

Cheers Randy, I'll try a yellow filter first and see what happens. I'll shoot the same scene with and without and post my results.

Anyone got any suggestion as to how much to compensate for a yellow filter with a blue sensitive film? I'm guessing 1 stop should be enough.

[rdelung]

Well, the neg is black = exposure + development



Either the film is fogged before it ever got to the camera, or else it was exposed in camera. If enough light reaches the film, it will just go completely black?

I'm no expert on xray film (or anything!), so YMMV, but I would do two things:

1. handle and develop a new piece in the same way (without exposure). If it looks the same then the handling or film is suspect
2. take a second piece of the same film and take a shot and develop and see how it works.

I think the same OP had an issue with an iphone safelight, could be the film got fogged somewhere along the line?

Let us know how you get on!!


Just as a thought, you could perform a safelight test. Just put out a new piece of film( make sure safelight is in the same place as before) cover the bottom one inch, move the card up one inch every 30 sec. until all is covered. Develop as normal, and inspect. It should go from clear to total dark in steps if the safelight is fogging the film. If safelight is ok, than most if not all of the film will be clear. Hope this helps. R.Delung

Fran

[SergeiR]

Cheers Randy, I'll try a yellow filter first and see what happens. I'll shoot the same scene with and without and post my results.

Anyone got any suggestion as to how much to compensate for a yellow filter with a blue sensitive film? I'm guessing 1 stop should be enough.

why wouldnt you use light meter and get reading?

[Ian Greenhalgh]

Because I use a handheld meter and to get a reading with the filter, that would need to be done with a TTL meter.

[SergeiR]

Because I use a handheld meter and to get a reading with the filter, that would need to be done with a TTL meter.

eh? Just stick filter on top of your sensor. For spot - on spot. See how far it now off from "clear" reading. You got yourself compensation.

[SergeiR]

8x10 kodak csg, @100, 1:100 Rodinal for 6.30 minutes


Scan-130511-0003www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr