Why? may I ask? dont you like third world countries??
Why? may I ask? dont you like third world countries??
Yes, both sides, a couple of minor scratches don't bother me too much, I have a hybrid workflow and remove scratches and dust after scanning. I find agfa grain a lot more subtle than carestream, personal taste.
For people who are removing extra emulsion with bleach - when is the best time to do it? Before or after you expose and/or develop it?
There is no reason to do it before. Plus you may have scratches on one side or the other. And loading a few sheets of film will just become a massive chore.
Regardless, I highly suggest you simply carefully develop in trays and don't worry about it. I bleached many, many 8x10 sheets and it was mostly a big waste of time and absolutely made the entire process not fun. Just develop it right the first time.
I used to be a big proponent of bleaching one side...I rescind all of that .
Proud to say I never bleached!
I find I can develop 14X34" 2X X-Ray easily in a 11X14" tray with a 2" of Rodinol.
I put film clips on each end, use Red safelight and simply rock a loop of it into the solutions. No scratches, just don't let it touch the bottom. No need to get crazy, just slow even dipping motions.
These were enlarged positives.
I once lay down four 14X17" sheets of 2X and made a big positive I put in a window with backlight for night viewing.
Last edited by Tin Can; 21-Apr-2019 at 18:22. Reason: corrected
Tin Can
Ok, I'm going to give it a try as-is, no bleaching
There is no need to mess with removing the emulsion. This is a double sided x-ray image. 8x10 Carbon transfer print.
I was mistaken about using Rodinol. I only use it, but for the big tray and the 14x34” 2X XRay I used Ilford PQ at 1/9 and it was fully developed in 2 minutes. Water stop for 30 seconds and TF5 fix for 3 minutes.
I could watch it develop and it was fixed quickly.
I washed quickly also.
I just remembered how I did it.
Tin Can
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