Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Tin Can]

YES!

X-Ray is good for many things

If I buy an ARCA, I will test it with X-Ray

Rod, more than likely I am not a buyer, as I have Norma and Linhof Studio cameras

I like to dream

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Hello to everyone. I have been away for quite a while now, but i will try to keep posting some experiments with lenses and examples.

5x7 x-ray film - developed in Rodinal-

From top to bottom, left and right column:

photo 1: MOM 497mm at f 6,2 - 1/2 second

photo 2: Brown MFG 19 inches at f 32 - 3 seconds

photo 3: unbranded weitwinkel 110mm f 8 - 1 second

[Jim Noel]

Try a less active developer, like D-23 or HC110 1+80 to1+100.

[Kiwi7475]

I am able to tame the high intrinsic contrast of HR-U by using 510 Pyro in stand development. It also means less agitation so less chance of scratches.


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[Daniel Unkefer]

I tried HC-110 "H" and got pretty contrasty results. Mic-X is a soft developer, but not with MIN-R. Drat.

Two developers I want to experiment with next, are D23 which I've been using and like it with all my crazy mix of Pancro films, and also Pyro PMK+. I have a bottle of PMK I recently decanted into smaller bottles, and now it's time to get out the Amidol, which makes it PMK Pyro+. Adds genuinely about a half stop of measurable emulsion speed. My fave soup of all time, which I have not used for more than twenty five years. I used a flat toothpick to scoop and dump the Amidol. Turns Pyro some wild rainbow colors which change quickly so gotta be quick starting up development. A lot of chemical change obviously going on there. The increase in shadow density is measurable 1/3-1/2 stop

More fun ahead

[agustin.gd]

Thanks everyone for their input.

It got much better with the lines and developing marks, and i guess i did too much agitation this time. But so far, 10ml of Rodinal in 1 liter of water has given me nice results. I have tried HC-110 but it was last year and i still was making a lot of mistakes with the dilution and general developing process.

I think i will give it a try at some point this year, maybe when i ran out of Rodinal.

[Tin Can]

Rodinol works well for me too

Been using it for 8 years, easy mix, I use whatever is cheapest and stock up

In OE bottle it seems to last nearly forever

I use for 35mm, 120 roll and 2X3 sheets in SS cans 4X5 to 8X10 on hangers

But I waste some as I always mix 1/100 to make 1 L, I never store mixed

In my 4 L gas burst tanks, I fill with distilled water, then add the R0d9nol and run gas bursts 10 cycles to mix

I stop with distilled water and reuse TF5 nearly forever as it seems to last too long

I test my TF5 every usage with X-Ray cutoffs for time to clear

Rodinol is 100% exhausted at 20 minutes regardless, use it immediately

I like simple solutions

pun intended

ULF X-Ray I mix Ilford PQ Universal Developer and use trays

[morecfm]

Hello: I've kind of been lurking on this thread. I'm a first-time user of Fujifilm HR-U which also is my first time in 8x10 and tray developing. From previous reading elsewhere, I rated the film at ISO 100 and developed with HC-110 dilution B for 5 minutes. Results indicate over exposure by quite a bit. Also, as first time tray developing film, I dinged up the film during processing but I knew this was a possibility with this film. The film is drying now, so I will see how it scans tomorrow. I'm just wondering if I over exposed, over developed or a combination of both.

I'm going to be doing some serious bracketing to see what will work the best if my developing time and strength are close to recommended.

[maltfalc]

Hello: I've kind of been lurking on this thread. I'm a first-time user of Fujifilm HR-U which also is my first time in 8x10 and tray developing. From previous reading elsewhere, I rated the film at ISO 100 and developed with HC-110 dilution B for 5 minutes. Results indicate over exposure by quite a bit. Also, as first time tray developing film, I dinged up the film during processing but I knew this was a possibility with this film. The film is drying now, so I will see how it scans tomorrow. I'm just wondering if I over exposed, over developed or a combination of both.

I'm going to be doing some serious bracketing to see what will work the best if my developing time and strength are close to recommended.

blue or green? don't expect anyone to tell you if you overexposed or overdeveloped when none of us can see the negative.

[Tin Can]

Too many unknown variables to consider any solution

I use Green X-Ray which is NOT GREEN, as it is cheapest

I use known shutters with known apertures and always consider bellows factor. I test my shutters with a discontinued iPhone gismo

Daylight varies continuously, some meters are not correct

I mostly shoot studio flash, same 4 for years, very stable

A very good modern Sekonic Flash Meter is essential for me

However in daylight I always guess exposure by Sunny 16, as I shot Sunny 16 ONLY for 40 years

Then I check with Sekonic

[morecfm]

blue or green? don't expect anyone to tell you if you overexposed or overdeveloped when none of us can see the negative.

I believe the film is green. Here's a scan of one of the negatives.

Photo of film hanging from drying:

Photo of film with back light:

Again first time using this camera and the lenses. Trying x-ray film as an "economical" way to experiment

My notes indicate f/16 @ 1/25 second but shutter speed to be verified. Sunny day. aah, sunny 16 would indicate 1/100 second @ iso 100 rating.