I just picked up a 210 Computar in barrel, which I'd like to have SK Grimes mount into a shutter (I have a Copal 1 and a modern Compur 1 available). Does this lens have issues (with mounting into a shutter, that is) like some of the Kowa-Graphic lenses, or should this be a straightforward job?
They are ill discoverers that think there is no land, when they can see nothing but sea.
-Francis Bacon
The lens should screw directly into the Copal 1 so the only work you need from SK Grimes is to put an apertture scale on the shutter.
Sandy King
Originally Posted by John Schneider
The factory mounted lenses intended for infinity use had a 1mm spacer between the rear group and the shutter.
The lens finally arrived, attached to a rather agricultural-looking Argyle process camera (anybody want any parts other than the bellows?). I was pleasantly surprised to see that the 210 uses a conventional female filter thread, rather than the male thread on the 150. I don't have my digicam handy, but it looks just like the one on Glennview's site:
Before I jump into removing the cells, I wanted to ask the right way to do it. There is a setscrew on the front barrel, just below the split line for the front cell (?). Removing the setscrew doesn't change anything, so I assume I need to take a strap wrench to loosen the front cell.
For the rear cell it looks like I have to remove a flat retaining ring around the rear barrel, using an adjustable lens spanner. Is this the right way to proceed? I don't want to goober up a rare lens with my ignorance. Thanks.
They are ill discoverers that think there is no land, when they can see nothing but sea.
-Francis Bacon
Here are some pics of my actual lens with the mounting flange and aperture ring removed. There are two slotted setscrews as shown by the tape arrows. It looks like if the front setscrew were loosened, the front cell would unscrew. However, it doesn't, at least under moderate force with two strap wrenches.
For the rear, it looks like one would have to take an adjustable lens spanner to the ring around the cell, then maybe the rear cell would unscrew. Or maybe not. Jim Galli postulates that this is a late Computar because of the user-unfriendly design. Does anyone have any ideas how to get these cells out so that I can put then into a shutter?
They are ill discoverers that think there is no land, when they can see nothing but sea.
-Francis Bacon
I too got my Computar from an old argyle!
Ignore the set screws and retaining rings.
These allow you to disassemble the iris diaphragm,
and thereby find yourself with a lapful aperture leaves
(yup, figured that out the hard way).
Both front and rear cells will screw directly out of
their respective housings.
The stepped ring in the rear cell, and the manufacturers
labeled ring in the front (both with spanner notches) hold
the elements themselves in the cells, so its the housings
they are immediately screwed into that you're after.
Press a piece of hard rubber against the edge of the cell
to get some purchase and just screw them out.
Hope that works for ya!
It looks like you can use a spanner wrench to remove the elements. This would give you the most torque in case the threads are frozen.
Before you disassemble anything, measure the lens while in the barrel so you can know if you need shims in your new shutter.
As a follow-up and for future reference, I wanted to add one additional post. A big thank you to all who responded; I was able to remove the cells successfully.
What caused my confusion was that what looked like ways to remove the cells (set screw and split line in the front barrel, and slotted retaining ring in the rear) were false leads, and the cells simply unscrewed, although it wasn't obvious at first that they would do so.
The rear cell protrudes slightly, so I put the lens on a piece of rubber and turned the barrel. For the recessed front cell, I plastered it with masking tape and used this as a way to unscrew the cell. I'm glad I took my time and asked folks here; otherwise I probably would've rushed for the big Channellocks or the bandsaw, with probably ugly results.
I should also mention that the overall length of the cells in the barrel is 1mm longer than the OAL in a #1 shutter. That's the reason for the 1mm shim that Jim mentioned as coming with lenses factory mounted in a shutter.
They are ill discoverers that think there is no land, when they can see nothing but sea.
-Francis Bacon
hi.....i had a couple of 240 computars...and kowas.....and noted that the lenses were different lengths when mounted in a shutter[ 3s]...and when mounted in a barrel... i believe the consensus for the ULF user was...no spacer...therefore a lens who's rear cell is a bit closer to the diaphram was better for the greater image circle it gave, when compared to the same lens with a spacer......of course this was for 7x17 contact printing...with stopping down to f 45 or 64 when shooting.....if you ever try your 210 on a 7x17.. or 11x14, and can't hit the corners... then of course first try stopping all the way down... then focusing in...to 8 or 10 feet or so....then try removing the spacer.....good luck....G
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