Epson V700 / Silverfast

[David Hedley]

I want to get decent scans of my 4x5 black and white negatives. I have had a new V700 for two days now, and I am so frustrated! I just do not know what I need to do! I can get a poor quality negative scan to import from Silverfast into Photoshop Elements, but there seems to be no way to invert it to a positive image. I have been through all of the help documentation, but it seems to have been written by people who have never used the application.

It may be some very simple configuration that I have missed. Any help with this, or a simple step by step workflow would be greatly appreciated. (I had none of these problems with an old Agfa scanner, by the way).

[Gem Singer]

I scan my 4X5 and 5X7 negatives just the way they are. I don't invert them when scanning. I open the file in Photoshop Elements.

Then, on the tool bar at the top, I click on "filter", click on "adjustments", click on "invert", and as if by magic, the negative scan turns into a positive image.

I'm no computer geek, so i don't know the technical words for what I do, but this method works for me.

[Joanna Carter]

If you use the Epson software from within Elements, you should get excellent results and the image will be positive in the scanning software.

[dwhistance]

I'd stick with Silverfast if I were you - it is capable of very good results when you have the hang of it.

To get Siverfast to provide you with a positive image from a negative you need to access its "Negafix" settings. This will pop up on the screen when you select both "transparency" and "negative" on the General Tab of the main Silverfast menu. Once Negafix pops up you are able to choose from a number of different films from the bigger manufacturers. You will find that if you scroll through a few of these both the colour and tonality of the preview image will change slighly depending upon the film chosen. Most of my favourite films are not included so I just choose one that suits and then proceed with the scan in the usual way (cropping, setting resolution, etc on the frame tab, setting B&W points).

I hope this is helpful.

David Whistance

[DJGainer]

I think I know your problem. There are two lenses in the v700 and you are probably using the document scanner without even realizing it. David's suggestions will lead you to use the film scanner which is located in the lid of the scanner. You can tell the film scanner is running by the sliding blue light on the closed lid.

-Dave

[Ash]

Go into your applications folder, go to Silverfast, select UNINSTALL.

Simple


Use the Epson Scan software, it is well powerful enough. I didn't bother even trying to use SF. My scans are excellent through the normal s/w, even if I do hate Epson

[DJGainer]

Ash, do you ever scan chromes with the epson software? I've just started and have had problems getting the right colors.

[kilimanjaro1996]

I'm using V700 and Epson Scan software, and the chromes look quite true to original by comparing it on a light table. My current settings are: 2400 dpi for 4x5 and 120 and 3200dpi for 35mm (could be higher but this is faster and smaller file to handle), 48 bit color, scanning quality best, and no adjustment; in the configuration dialog: color control "continuous auto exposure", display gamma 2.2. I have been scanning lots and lots of Velvia over the last few weeks, and so far so good. You can check some results from my photos tream on flickr.

[Joanna Carter]

Ash, do you ever scan chromes with the epson software? I've just started and have had problems getting the right colors.

There are significant differences in the base material of different transparency films.

Have you profiled the scanner for the type of film you are using? Wolf Faust http://www.targets.coloraid.de/ does excellent targets that work with software like the Monaco EZ-Color.

But, most of all, you must disable all colour correction in the scanning software.

[dwhistance]

I think everyone has forgotten that the original question related to scanning B&W negatives so, for him at least, colour profiling is unnecessary. I am also not convinced that scanning as a positive and inverting is the right way to start as it will require lots of work in curves to achieve a reasonable positive image. Keep it as simple as possible at first and use a tool designed for this purpose. The OP has Silverfast so why not use Negafix? Once he gets the hang of it then by all means start playing and comparing scanning software.

One more thought - you have taken out the cover which allows reflective scanning to uncover the transparency adapter? If it is left in you will certainly get dull transparency scans!

David Whistance