Chamonix wish list

[Peter De Smidt]

I like my new Chamonix 4x5 a lot, but there are a few things that could use improvement.

1) The lines for the back movement are way too light and hard to see, especially in low light conditions. Moving to the dot system (like up front), coloring the lines better, perhaps different colors at the "5" marks spacing, or something similar would be nice.

2) The fluid in the bubble levels is way too viscous, and thus the levels respond to changes too slowly. Compare this to an Arca, Sinar... and you'll see what I mean. With those cameras the bubble responds very quickly to any changes, which makes adjusting alignment a simple matter, whereas the bubbles on the Chamonix do not.

3)The bubbles on my rear standard don't agree. They both can't be right! It would be nice if they were somehow adjustable.

4) Moving the focusing knob from one circle to the next moves the standard 2mm. That's great! But it's hard to know which circle you've turned from when you're staring at the ground glass working on depth of field. A colored dot between the drilled circles would be nice, each one a different color. That way you could easily tell how far the standard had moved from near focus point to far.

5) A latch to hold the folded camera shut would be nice.

[Don Hutton]

I like my new Chamonix 4x5 a lot, but there are a few things that could use improvement.

As a fellow Chamonix owner, here are my suggestions...

1) The lines for the back movement are way too light and hard to see, especially in low light conditions. Moving to the dot system (like up front), coloring the lines better, perhaps different colors at the "5" marks spacing, or something similar would be nice.

Fill them in with some white enamel - I scored mine with a blade and then filled them in with a white enamel pen from an art store - wipe off for neat effect.

2) The fluid in the bubble levels is way too viscous, and thus the levels respond to changes too slowly. Compare this to an Arca, Sinar... and you'll see what I mean. With those cameras the bubble responds very quickly to any changes, which makes adjusting alignment a simple matter, whereas the bubbles on the Chamonix do not.

Learn to live with this one... I mean it's LF after all - things take time!

3)The bubbles on my rear standard don't agree. They both can't be right! It would be nice if they were somehow adjustable.
.

Remove the metal fixtures and you can adjust them a fair bit - not hard. You need a little screwdriver.

4) Moving the focusing knob from one circle to the next moves the standard 2mm. That's great! But it's hard to know which circle you've turned from when you're staring at the ground glass working on depth of field. A colored dot between the drilled circles would be nice, each one a different color. That way you could easily tell how far the standard had moved from near focus point to far.

Make a big white mark on the front edge of the focusing knob with the same white enamel pen you bought from the art store to do sort out the visibility issue with the lines on the front standard. Now you have an easy to see reference point - it's like a clock - 5 minutes equals 1mm of extension. An hour (one full revolution) is 12mm... Once you have a nice clear white mark, it's intuitive.

5) A latch to hold the folded camera shut would be nice.

It doesn't fall open if you lock the rear standard "axis tilt" adjustment. However, I'd like to have a handle on both the 4x5 and the 8x10 - there is a point where the camera is between lying in a camera bag and mounted on a tripod and a handle on the top is a nice touch for this time...

[Don Hutton]

Peter

Here are some snaps of the "white line" solution on the front standard and focusing knob. The one thing I do need to change which I haven't yet gotten around to is clipping the corners of the fresnel: my camera was delivered with ground glass with clipped corners; but the fresnel underneath did not have clipped corners - it's sort of the worst of both worlds - either you have intact corners and can enjoy composing right into the corners - or you have clipped corners where you can't compose into the corners, but you can easily check vignetting from behind the camera and your bellows can easily breathe as you move the front standard in and out. This is the worst of both worlds, but I just haven't gotten around to fixing it yet (small dremel cut on the corners of the fresnel should have it sorted)...

[Peter De Smidt]

Hi Don,

I generally agree with your fixes, and I appreciate your suggestions. Yes, I did try adjusting the bubble level, but when you tighten it back down, it goes back to being out of alignment. If it's not tightened down, it would be fairly easy for it to be bumped out of whack. I will have to live with the overly viscous fluid, but this should be an easy fix for future cameras, and I doubt it would add much expense. I use a 3d geared head, and it's so much quicker and easier aligning everything with other cameras (calumet, arca, sinar, horseman...) Sometimes speed is important even with large format, or perhaps the camera is in such an awkward position, up against a wall for example, that any ease of use improvements can be quite important. If I were the manufacturer, I'd want to know what issues customers are having, even if they are minor.

[Don Hutton]

If I were the manufacturer, I'd want to know what issues customers are having, even if they are minor.

100% agreement there - I was not trying to be critical - just offering suggestions for an easy fix. I mentioned the fresnel issue for the same reason - seems like an easy "factory" fix.

When you take off the metal parts, you need to "pop" the levels out of the frame and then reset them - I set mine in place accurately with a little epoxy in the frames.

It is an $800 camera though and we should probably keep some perspective with that in mind. I still don't think there's any other $2000 camera on the market I'd rather own (and I think I've pretty much tried everything).

[Peter De Smidt]

Hi Don,

Thanks for the epoxy tip. I'll give it a try. I agree with you about the Chamonix being a great value. There are cameras that I like better for field use, namely ARCAs, but they cost significantly more, especially if you start comparing the cost of accessories.

[Don Hutton]

Didn't know you owned a Ritter, Philips, Walker, Lotus, Toho, Canham Metal, Arca F/M w/custom 4X5 back, etc. etc. All are on the market and well under $2000...Your favorite place, Ebay, is where you will find many of these cameras, though you have already tried them all haven't you apogeebee?

Mike

Behaving like a jerk in the privacy of your own home is one thing. FWIW, you'll discover that apogeebee on Ebay is fellow by the name of George Brown - not me... So sorry, you're wrong as usual. I actually use my own name - Don Hutton - on all forums - I don't hide behind some daft "webhandle" either.

And I've never owned a Ritter nor a Toho... so therefore, unlike you, I don't offer my opinions on them.

[Eric James]

Enough already you two.

I would like to see the long bellows version of the 045n-1 - soon.

[Peter De Smidt]

It seems we can't have a thread here without ill temper being interjected at some point. What a shame.

[Don Hutton]

My apologies for responding to the buffoon.