Movements!

[lenser]

[I][B]"You obviously exceeded the image circle. Which Lens were you using? Go to the INFO section and check the data on your lenses. It helps to know what the image diameter is for your lenses. Also, is your 90 lens a wide angle? For example, there's a huge difference between the Angulon 90 and the Super Angulon 90."

Robbie, I think you might have meant to say 'wide field' when you said "wide angle". Both lenses are the same wide angle focal length, but the Super Angulon has a much larger image circle or field, hence it is a wide field as well as a wide angle, allowing for far greater movements.

Agreed that he exceeded the image circle by a mile.

PB, are you using a dark focusing cloth? If so (and it is critical that you do) you should be able to see when you are moving out of the image circle quite easily. You may have to move your head from side to side and look at the ground glass from an angle, especially if your ground glass doesn't have a fresnel lens which helps to brighten the image.

Again, get Steve Simmons book as fast as you can and search this site (there is a search function) for info on view camera movements.

Good luck.

Tim

[PBimages]

Both me and another photographer, did not spot this fatal flaw the image was perfect on screen everything was there.

Ok the depth of field was not as sharp as it should have been, so we opted for f64 @ 7 Seconds to pull it in, and it appears to have done the trick!

Could this have been caused by anything else?

Faulty neg carrier, me... etc

[lenser]

PB,

If there is any way that you can scan and attach the images, it will help us all to help you figure this out. But, it really does sound like you went beyond the limits of the lens.

Don't think you are the first or will be the last. I've certainly done it (still do if I don't pay attention) and even the great Ansel Adams used an example of an image he did in a desert where he had most of the sky obscured by the rim of the lens circle.

It's all a learning process and that's a big part of the fun.

Tim

[ljb0904]

Get Steve Simmons book or Jack Dykinga's book. Then pull the camera out and start playing with it. You don't need to waste film to see what's going to happen. You can see it clearly on the ground glass.

[Robbie Shymanski]

Thanks Tim.

I have also been guilty of pointing at "muntins" on a window when I meant "mullions".

[lenser]

Robbie,

You have no idea how much spell check saves me from my every other word typing dyslexia.

Have a good one.

Tim

[JPlomley]

Just thought I would add that with an Arca Swiss sporting MicroOrbix, focus on the centre point and tilt the front axis until both the near point and far point defining the extremes of your plane come into focus. Very quick and efficient.

[PBimages]

Just working on a way to scan the images in, looks like I have no choice but to either contact print the images or build a neg holder somehow scan the neg in, most likely in sections and stich it back together.

When I have done that, then you can see the images!

One simple college assignment is making me think more than I have done before!

[Ole Tjugen]

I know of only one camera that can be adjusted so that the tilt axis passes through the optical center of any lens, which is what you need to really take advantage of axial tilt. I mean - if the tilt axis is a couple of mm away from the optical center, the image on the GG will move, so you will need to compensate for that with rise/fall, and then...

Most lenses have the optimum tilt axis point right in the middle of the shutter, but this is certainly not true for all lenses.

Oh BTW: A Super Angulon has "hard vignetting" at the edge of the image circle. An Angulon does not - so while the plain old Angulon has a smaller image circle than the SA, it has a greater circle of illumination. From this follows that if the vignetting was visibly in the shape of a half circle it can't have been a 90mm Angulon.

[Mattg]

I know of only one camera that can be adjusted so that the tilt axis passes through the optical center of any lens, which is what you need to really take advantage of axial tilt. I mean - if the tilt axis is a couple of mm away from the optical center, the image on the GG will move, so you will need to compensate for that with rise/fall, and then...

Which camera Ole? I find it slightly frustrating that my Arca's Orbix isn't really axial, I'm using a recessed board so it's slightly worse than usual.