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Thread: xtol, is it worth it?

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    96

    xtol, is it worth it?

    I am about to do some film testing to tune things up for the spring "campaign" a nd I am considering testing Xtol. My current primary film is TMX in 4x5 processe d in HC110. I use a Jobo Atl 1000. I am very happy with what I am getting, and t he quick route would be to work out some times for TMX 120 and just go out and s hoot, but the idea that something better might be out there sometimes eats at me and I wonder. Should I try Xtol? I have followed the threads on Xtol and I am at once encourag ed and repulsed. This is like bringing another player into training camp just to push a veteran, but I don't want to waste time either. Any advice?

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2000
    Posts
    91

    xtol, is it worth it?

    You will probably get more no's than yes's...but it sounds like Xtol is always going to be bouncing around in your brain till you try it. You only live once....try it amd see.

  3. #3

    xtol, is it worth it?

    Ansel Adams mentioned in The Negative, something along the lines of, perhaps the differences in developers is not as significant as we sometimes make it seem.

    Anchell in Troop said, of 2-bath or divided developers, these are ideal for people who want quality negatives but don't want to obsess about developers.

    If you have a process you are happy with, stick with it.

    If you want to play around just for the fun of it, try Xtol. It's cheap, and you can see for yourself. Just test it out before you use it on important work.

    Me, I tried it, but decided to stick to 2-bath for now. It solves a problem I am prone to: over developing and over agitating.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    96

    xtol, is it worth it?

    ... one of these days you will pull your negatives from the developer to find them with no image on them... If that isn't a worry... If that isn't a worry!!? what am i taking pictures for? I think I already have plenty of options for failure without adding another one. Is that dreaded failure for real? and what is the cause? Thanks for the input, you are really helping me make up my mind. I need a system that I can count on. Maybe I'll test one of the oldest developers (rodinal) instead of one of the newest.

  5. #5

    xtol, is it worth it?

    As one poster responded in another thread, whats wrong with putting the film leader in a beaker and trying the developer out?

    I have decided to head down the XTOL path; (I currently have an xtol question up in Photonet to discover more about it before proceeding) From reading everything I can find, it seems the trouble is worth it. Low toxicity, excellent imaging capabilities, long shelf life. I recieved a response over in the film and developing forum to another post, and the guy said he uses it as 75F and never had a problem. Go Figure. The one thing I'm trying to find out is the sensitivity to agitation and the apparent need for more than 100ml of undiluted developer, although some use a litle over a 100ml with a increase in developing time. With the responses I've read to how good it is with Tmax films, what would it hurt to try it with some back yard shots?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Nov 1998
    Posts
    339

    xtol, is it worth it?

    I used Xtol off an on for a while at various dilutions, often at 75F but sometim es lower, with never a single problem. The only reason I stopped using it is tha t imho other developers work better with the films I use.

    I always mixed it with distilled water, decanted it into measured amounts into smaller containers for dump-it-in dilution, and stored those in a refrigerator.

    All that aside...I presume you shoot two sheets of each shot? If not, perhaps you should just to avoid that giant hair that always shows up on the most import ant neg. And if you do that, if you encounter the "dreaded Xtol failure" you'll have a second neg to develop in something else.

  7. #7

    xtol, is it worth it?

    Erik,

    I use xtol when I don't feel like dealing with PMK. I have run into the "dreaded Xtol failure" on a couple occasions: when I accidently used a package that had been caked, when the stock was too old, and when using a too dilute solution. Kodak has changed their recommondations on dilution and I suspect that overdilution led to a lot of the complaints especially with T grain films. All my problems were with TMY and APX 100. Use it 1+3 on FP4 and its fantastic, use it 1+3 on TMY and its a dog. Someone above stated that it was sensitive to agitation. I couldn't agree more. Sometimes I forget that I can't agitate it like PMK and I get something that would work better as a shingle than a negative. If you're looking for something different to try Rodinal and TMAX is pretty sweet.

    It would be interesting to find literature from the 30's when several new developers were issued and see how well they were received. I also wonder if Ansel would have used HC110 if he didn't get it free from Kodak.

    Happy experimenting

  8. #8

    xtol, is it worth it?

    I just don't understand all the fears and apprehension about Xtol. I have used it exclusively for over three years and processed in excess of 1000 rolls with it. I have only had one failure and it was my fault. I have had to take several 1 liter packages back to the dealer. I just can't imagine using anything else with 35mm. It is magic with Ilford Delta films. I mix the stock solution with distilled water, dilute with distilled water and use distilled water for the stop bath. Practice using distilled water, mainain at least 100ml of stock solution for each roll of film developed and discard after use and you will be shocked at the quality negatives that you get. There is no risk here.

  9. #9

    xtol, is it worth it?



    I am intrigued by the lure of Xtol. Over the past week I have helped my son with a school project in "product evaluation". With a little nudge on my part I talked my son into evaluating negative developers. So we bought the smallest sizes of Rodinal, Ilford Ilfosol S, Ilford Perceptol, and Kodak Xtol. We then went on a Saturday shoot and made four duplicate negatives of two different scenes. We followed up by developing each pair of negatives, which were HP5 Plus (by strictly following the manufactures directions) in a different developer. I use a Unicolor 8x10 drum to do this.



    The results are quite dramatic. Rodinal (my previous favorite) easily surpassed Ilfosol S and Perceptol in both shadow density and ease of printing. Much to my surprise though is that Xtol was even substantially better that Rodinal for shadow detail and also printed out quite easily to about a Grade 2 ? paper.



    I now feel like I did years ago with my first girlfriend. I really want to go down to the rink and play hockey with the guys (Rodinal) but am now being constantly lured to the movies by my new girlfriend (Xtol).



    Would it be possible to set up a survey and find out how many people have had the Xtol failure versus those who have not ? Also perhaps somebody might actually know of what causes the failure and help us to avoid the problem

    Tempted but cautious ! GreyWolf

  10. #10

    xtol, is it worth it?

    I did four 8x10 Tri-x with XTOL in the JOBO today (at 68 degrees), then a 35mm roll of HP4+ by hand with the same stuff; Got the usual beatiful results as I have for over three years of using exclusively XTOL. Use good water (my city water seems to agree with it), make sure it is mixed thoroughly and completely dissolved before use. The negs should be dry by now, think I'll go print.

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