Drum processing 8x10 HP5?

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

J&C sold these welding rod tubes, as film tubes. They are very cheap new on Ebay, a fraction of the J&C price. They are light-tight, but watch out they come in various colours you need Black.

I much prefer dish processing 10x8 it's much easier, and quicker.

Ian

Brubaker sells them for $70 I beleive....talk about a mark up, huh? Mine cost $11, they are black, but like I said, you can paint any of the colored ones black and it will work.

[sanking]

You might want to consider buying one of the old Beseler 16X20 print drums and a motor base. You can develop up to four 8X10 sheets at a time with this drum, if you get the spacers.

I actually prefer this to Jobo since it takes up so much less space, and works just as well in my experience.


Sandy

[John Kasaian]

I've souped HP-5+ in the Unicolor and they came out just fine

[Waldo]

I'm just going to tray process. I was hoping to be lazy and tube process, oh well.

[audioexcels]

I'm just going to tray process. I was hoping to be lazy and tube process, oh well.

What's wrong with Sandy's idea? Would be way cheap and spare you the trays...

[Ole Tjugen]

I used to have a cibachrome tube, trust me when I tell you that the developer will not reach the antihaliton layer in the back of the film where it is in contact with the drum.

So what?

Just wash off the antihalation layer afterwards! It's much easier doing the processing in a tube/drum followed by washing in a tray than doing everything in the tray!

A developed film with a partially removed antihalation layer is not "damaged" - it's just not washed enough.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

So what?

Just wash off the antihalation layer afterwards! It's much easier doing the processing in a tube/drum followed by washing in a tray than doing everything in the tray!

A developed film with a partially removed antihalation layer is not "damaged" - it's just not washed enough.

Did you actually read that the original poster wanted to do all three steps in the tube. IN addition some films are harder to get the antihalation back removed which can lead to uneven staining, I have some of those. But thank you for your expertise.... obviously you have done a lot fo film in cibachrome tubes like I have.

[Ole Tjugen]

Yes Jorge, I have. In Cibachrome and JOBO print drums.

I use mostly FP4+. I do developer, stop and fixing in the drum, and washing in a tray. No stains - ever.

Incidentally I do chromes in a JOBO print drum too, with no problems at all so far.

[Ole Tjugen]

Read my post Jorge - i do do all three steps in the drum: Dev, stop and fix. And most of the washing too, I might add.

I don't use Tmax, partly because of the tenacious stain.

Read the posts you reply to, and cut down on the insults please.

[Jiri Vasina]

Some threads have a quick tendency to degenerate into flaming wars and insulting. It's funny to note that some posters are around this degeneration more often than others.

I have no experience with Cibachrome drums, but use Jobo print drums for 5×7/5×8 processing and I do all three steps (actually 4 - with presoak) in the drum on Unicolor roller base. The 5th step - washing - can also be done in the drum (tube), using the Ilford method (that is the label I know it under - agitation and shaking with water inside for a number inversions, then change the water) - but you use much more water and it's a good weight lifting doing it for a total of hundreds of inversions with more than a liter of water. So all the development steps can be done in Jobo print drums - but it's more practical to do the washing in trays...