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Thread: Big Bend NP

  1. #1
    Hopelessly Lost
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    Dec 2006
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    Nashville
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    Big Bend NP

    I am heading west (then North and then East, but more on that later) and will be making my way to Big Bend NP and I wanted to get some opinions on the place. It looks beautiful and I love the desert, just never made it out there. I will be shooting 4x5 and smaller so not too worried about weight issues. Are there any remote camp sites? Any issues with crowds or people hassling you for shooting images? Seems like a great place.

    Hollis Bennett
    www.hollisbennett.com

    Huh? Oh, right, keep moving.

  2. #2
    Is that a Hassleblad? Brian Vuillemenot's Avatar
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    Jan 2002
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    Big Bend is my favorite national park. It's one of those relatively undiscovered gems, but has been getting more and more crowded over the last decade. My favorite place to camp is in the Chisos Basin campground. There's awesome views up there, and lots of trail heads leading into the Chisos. You could camp there and have quite a bit to explore and photograph on day hikes from the trailhead. During the summer, it's also much cooler up there than in the desert. Another cool thing to do would be to float the Rio Grande in a raft and photograph the canyon scenery, such as Santa Elena canyon. There's also a couple ghost towns nearby if you're into shooting ruins. I've never been hastled by anyone while photographing there, although a number of curious strangers did ask politely about my big camera (similar to what you'd expect anywhere). Here's a few pics from my last trip to BBNP.
    Brian Vuillemenot

  3. #3
    Zebra
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Asheville, NC
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    The hike down to 'The Window' is my favorite in the park. I also enjoy the view into Santa Elena Canyon at sunrise and it is relatively easy to get to. I wouldn't discount Big Bend State Park as there are many desert scenes to come away with --with a fraction of the people around. Outside of the park there used to be (its been a while since I have been down that way) two giant water tanks painted into Wolf Brand Chili cans that I always enjoyed photographing if you like man made in the environment type work.

    Don't forget to stop in and say hello to James Evans in Marathon, the gateway town to Big Bend. He is a phenomenal photographer and a true gentleman who will graciously share info, time, and hospitality if he is around. One of the really nice men in the world.

    http://www.jameshevans.com/Welcome%20.html


    Have a great trip and post some pictures here when you get back!

    best,

    Monty

  4. #4
    Hopelessly Lost
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    Dec 2006
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    Sounds very good. A good friend of mine (another photographer) has also recommended meeting James Evans and I will have to do that. I was looking into floating the canyon and will probably do that. Thanks again and I will be posting photos on my website at www.hollisbennett.com once i make some that I like.
    www.hollisbennett.com

    Huh? Oh, right, keep moving.

  5. #5
    David Vickery
    Join Date
    Oct 1998
    Location
    Texas, USA
    Posts
    220

    Re: Big Bend NP

    Hello Hollis, It has been several years since I have been to Big Bend, And I miss it!
    There are plenty of back country, primitive campsites. The only time that I have ever seen it crowded was during spring break--and then it is only crowded at the campsites. But the Basin does see plenty of traffic, even in the off season, as it is the only part of Big Bend that is high enough up to get some relief from the heat of the desert.
    Big Bend has so much to be discovered if you look. The Avifauna is surprising in quantity and diversity, the flora are an amazement, the landscape diverse and challenging, just remember that everything is further away than it seems and you will need more water with you than you think.
    Judging from your nice website, you will enjoy the Big Bend. And as Monty said, Big Bend State Park has a lot to offer as well.
    Every time I have been there I have driven through Marathon and have tried to meet James Evans but his gallery was always closed.
    Sudek ambled across my mind one day and took his picture. Only he knows where it is.
    David Vickery

  6. #6
    Scott Schroeder's Avatar
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    Mar 2004
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    Austin,TX
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    Hollis,
    It's a BIG area to cover so you won't be able to see it all in one trip.
    As Monty said, Big Bend Ranch State Park should NOT be overlooked.
    I have always gone to the NP but in early March decided to go to the SP.
    I was taking my son for a week long camping trip and it was spring break.
    I'm not much for crowds...
    Although Big Bend can't really be crowded Spring Break is when it has the most visitors. The state park is more rugged and remote and so you won't be bumping into people...
    However, you'll need a 4wd high clearance vehicle to get to the fun spots. If you go I'd highly recommend the Guale2 campsite. BUT it's a rough road to get there.....
    A really good resource is BigBendChat.
    My trip out there wasn't for photography but just for my son, so I didn't even bring a big camera. To get an idea you can see some snaps of our trip. There are some comments at the top of most photos in that annoying header that shaves off some of the picture.
    Also, if you find yourself in town, head over to the Starlight porch in the evening for a beer and to meet some locals.
    If you don't make it to the state park, there is a beautiful short hike called Closed Canyon you might wanna check out.
    BTW, it's probably getting pretty hot out there by now....
    So you might want to run for the chisos. If the camera isn't too heavy, you wouldn't regret an overnight to the south rim.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Coast of Oregon
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    I love Big Bend, been going since I was young, but now I live 1800 miles away ;-(

    The ghost town of Terlingua (outside the park to the west and currently making a comeback - check out the Starlight Theater restaurant) is interesting, plus the re-developed town of Lajitas (weird place with a golf course and a fake western town) are good, but the drive to the west through Colorado Canyon is one of Americs'a best drives, imho.

    Further west in the added recreation area is a slot canyon, Closed Canyon, narrow and descending to the Rio Grande river below... wonderful, spooky, spiritual place shaped by wind and water, similar to those Antelope Canyons in Utah (?), it's a bit hard to find, but look for a parking lot where rafters set into the river up the road towards Presidio

    Chisos Basin can be explored for days and still not have done it all.. if it rains there are waterfalls in unexpected places and the rock formations are awesome. Santa Elena Canyon is majestic. Grapevine Hill is remote and very scenic, if you have the vehicle and the camping gear there are many primitive campsites available. On the eastern edge, Sierra del Carmen Mountains are great... nearby to the Rio Grande Village (camping and RVs). My favorite (easy to get in and out for lazy campers like me), is Cottonwood Camp near the river.

    I could go on, but it makes me a little sad. Say hi to James, eat at the Gage Hotel, and don't speed around Alpine at night. (not because of cops, but the javelina and deer are all over the roads !!!)

    haha, I noticed before I could complete this message, Scott beat me to the punch on a couple of suggestions... that means they're a "must see and do"

    links:
    http://www.big.bend.national-park.com/camping.htm

    http://www.adventuresports.com/bike/...bendhiker.html

  8. #8
    Hopelessly Lost
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    Dec 2006
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    Thanks all, the comments are really helpful. Ill definitely check out the SP while I am out there. As for time, I have as much as I need. This is the first major stop of a year-long road trip cross-continent. I am involved in desert racing (trucks) so my vehicle will be perfectly fine out there. Great, I can not wait. This will be good.

    H.
    www.hollisbennett.com

    Huh? Oh, right, keep moving.

  9. #9
    Darren H's Avatar
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    Dec 2007
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    The Lone Star State
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    Hollis-

    Big Bend is one of my favorite parks and as others have a said a hidden gem of the park system. It is a very specatcular park that is a landscape photographers dream. I would go as far to say that if Big Bend were in California people would talk of Yosemite, Big Bend and Death Valley in the same breath . But since it is truly the end of the road in southwest Texas, it is overlooked by most. It is a place you can spend a lifetime exploring. If you like big open places, you will love it here.

    When are you thinking of planning a trip?

    It is getting hot there now and the desert floor will be over 100 every day. The Chisos Basin will be cooler and the mountains nicer yet. The summer rains will hopefully begin in June or so and run into September. The park has been bone dry all year so they need the rain. Typically by late summer there is a second spring during the peak of the "monsoon season" and wildflowers will be in the Chisos and the foothills. Fall -winter-and spring are cooler nice times there. Early summer is for those who can take the heat.

    There are a great many photo locations, hikes, and drives. Really it depends what you like to photograph and what you like to do. You have mountains, desert, grasslands, canyons, ruins, rock art, hidden oasises, flowers, birds, bears, mountain lion, etc. Here are just a few suggestions:

    Drives-

    Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive-paved and ends at Santa Elena Canyon

    River Road-55 miles of gravel, need high clearance and about 8 hours 1 way.

    Old Ore Road, gravel- high clearance, stop and hike Ernst Tinaja

    Glenn Springs Road, rough gravel, high clearance, hike in Pine Canyon, photograph the Mariscal Mines

    Hikes-

    South Rim- long all day hike in Chisos

    Lost Mine- Nice Chisos hike

    Window- Great sunset hike in Chisos

    Balanced Rock in Grapevine Hills for sunrise

    Santa Elena Canyon- a must do. Great sunrise location too.

    Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park about an hour west of BBNP. Narrow slot canyon that is alot like Utah.

    Photography- Sunrise Locations I like:

    Santa Elena Canyon
    Rio Grande Village Nature trail hill
    5 miles east of Panther Junction looking toward Chisos
    Balanced Rock in Grapevine Hills

    Sunset locations I like:

    Window in Chisos
    Sotol Vista Overlook
    Hot Springs
    Rio Grande Village nature trail hill

    There are just a few, the park is full of them. Explore and find more.

    When you get to the park, stop at any visitor center and buy the 3 volume book series. One on roads, gravel roads, and trails. They are maybe $2/each and give you pics and area descriptions. A fantastic source for info and cheap to boot.

    In the summer you will want to camp in the Basin. It is cooler but the campsites are really close together. Cottonwood is better but really hot in the summer. The Chisos has a lodge you can get a room in. If you backpack, do an overnighter to the south rim. Gotta carry alot of water but it is a great view.

    If you have a few days or a few weeks this could be a great park for you.

    I was there last month and you can find some info and images about the trip at this thread-

    http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=32780

    as well as posts on my blogs about the trip(see the link in my sig below).

    Good luck with your trip and feel free to ask any questions, we can try and point you in the right direction.
    My Arca-Swiss Camera Blog- The Large Format Camera Blog

    My website-WildernessPhotographer

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
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    Re: Big Bend NP

    Wow, Darren, what a list! I am cutting and pasting it for future reference in the hopes that I go some day, and all these suggestions can only help! Thanks!

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