Paper developers

[jwarren116]

I'm in need of some guidance in the paper developer department! I'm a college student working in a college darkroom where they use Lauder paper developer (roughly the same as Dektol) and Lauder Rapid Fix.

I shoot 4x5 FP4+ and develop in PMK. I've pretty much ironed out everything on that side of my system. And it seems pointless to go to all that effort and do nothing to perfect the printing side of the darkroom. It's been recommended that I stick with the Lauder Dektol developer, but also use Selectol-soft. I'm going to start using TF4 fix, as the Lauder seems to bleach highlights. I poked around and I'm intrigued by Amidol, but turned off by the short shelf life. Photo Formulary's F130 seems like a nice alternative.

Again, I'm using FP4+ in PMK, and printing on Ilford MGIV Fiber paper. I'm pretty much looking for a developer that will allow some smooth midtones and highlights, but still give me those occasional intense blacks. I think that covers the logistics.

Can anyone throw me some recommendations or suggestions? I'd love to just go on a buying spree and test a ton of developers, but the college thing kinda puts the finances in a pinch. I think I'm already favoring the F130. Has anyone compared F130 and Dektol/Selectol-soft?

Thanks guys and gals,
James

[Darren Kruger]

Can anyone throw me some recommendations or suggestions? I'd love to just go on a buying spree and test a ton of developers, but the college thing kinda puts the finances in a pinch. I think I'm already favoring the F130. Has anyone compared F130 and Dektol/Selectol-soft?

Try some regular Kodak dektol first at 1:2 and then maybe 1:3 and see how it compares to the lauders. Should be easy to find.

I have some friends who really like Edwal LPD (and the fact it has a really long tray life.)

-Darren

[Mark Woods]

Does anyone use the Amidol? And what are your experiences?

Thanks.

[PViapiano]

Another vote for LPD...lasts forever and great results! Foolproof!

[CG]

....as the Lauder seems to bleach highlights....

Is it possible you are fixing for too long, maybe waaaay too long? I don't know anything about Lauder Fix, but acid fixers can bleach out highlights if the print is left in too long.

Is Lauder fix an acid fix? That's the first thing I'd investigate before looking for new developers.

C

[jwarren116]

Lauder is an acid fix, and I don't over fix. I'm pretty careful with my timing. I'm pretty sure our lab tech actually adds hardener to the fix. That might be the culprit?

[steve simmons]

I a a fan of LPD and Ansco 130. The Photogrpaher's Formulary has a version of the 130. Glycin is the key ingredient. With a PMK neg and 130 you can get a very nice, long scale print with wonderful high values.

steve simmons
publisher, view camera magazine

[John Bowen]

Bruce Barlow's www.circleofthesunproductions.com has free pdf files of the "Great Paper and Developer Shootout" articles he wrote for View Camera. You can get Bruce's impressoins of your favorite paper using about 12 different commercially available developers.

[Donald Miller]

Does anyone use the Amidol? And what are your experiences?

Thanks.

I use Amidol exclusively for my paper developer. In my experience, it gives wonderful deep blacks and excellent tonal separation.

[Brook Martin]

If you print more than a few prints in a session, amidol is not too bad in terms of economy. It mixes up quickly, lasts through a longs session without losing stregenth, and is very flexable in terms of being able to use water bath development to fine tune contrast. And there is the deep blacks and tonal seperation.

Remember, dektol and equivalents will start to weaken after 20 8x10's per liter of working solution.