New shooter has film handling issues....

[BigSteveG]

So I got the Cambo out to Joshua Tree this past Sat. That Bogen Tripod is a heavy Mother so I didn't get far from the car. Other minor issues like forgetting to close the aperture,etc happened, but I think I got a few shots.
Issues were mostly film loading. I lost 2-3 sheets due to the slide being impossible to push back in. The sheet crinkled up and had to be removed or just came out of the holder. I am assuming due to improper loading. Wil need to refine the technique I guess. One holder had 2 sheets of film in it.
Also, My polaroids came out terribly over/underexposed. They worked fine at the house. I changed the bellows which was full of pinholes. And didn't try the new leak free bellows purchased used from KEH until I was out at the location. Although I did check the new bellows w/ a flashlight and it proved to be fine. Will try polaroid again tonight at the house.
Now how to get the exposed film over to the lab? It's still in the holders in a small ice chest in the fridge. I'm thinking unload in the changing bag into the bag that comes w/ a box of paper into the box and off to the printer?
So who is using quick loads? Do you find the extra expense is worthwhile? It's about three times the price right. Are the Fuji/Kodak quick/ready load holder the same? or do you have to buy a holder for each brand?

All answers, comments and criticisms welcome!

[Andrew O'Neill]

It sounds like you loaded the film incorrectly. Practice loading in the light with one of the sheets you wasted.

I'm thinking unload in the changing bag into the bag that comes w/ a box of paper into the box and off to the printer?

Yes. That should be fine.

Sorry, I don't use quick loads so I can't help you there.

[roteague]

I use QuickLoads all the time, more so when traveling. Yes, they are much more expensive, but worth the convience.

You don't mention what size camera you are using, but assuming 4x5 you really don't need a huge, heavy tripod.

[photographs42]

The good news is, except for the potential problem with the bellows, all of your problems can be resolved with practice. First, make it a standard proceedure to cock and fire the shutter a couple of times before putting the film holder in. The shutter won't fire if the aperture is open. When loading film,use your finger and thumb to guide the film under the rails of the film holder. Then, when the film is fully inserted, before you let go of it and with your finger and thumb still touching the rails, gently raise it to make sure it is under the rails on each side. It doesn't take long to get the hang of it.

Quick loads are a great idea and work nicely but only if you are using 4x5 and are happy with the films available in quick loads. I would love to have 5x7 HP-5 quick loads.

Jerome

[Capocheny]

Steve,

Whenever you insert a slide back into the holder and it crinkles your film... it's definitely a loading problem. If you look at your holders in the light, there are two guide tracks against each side of the holder when you pull your dark slide out. Your film should go under the second track flat against the back of the holder.

The reason your film is crinkling is because you've loaded the piece of film directly underneath the dark slide, or in other words, in the same track as the one which the dark slide slides into.

Do a Google search of the name, "Paul Butzi" and click on his website. At the moment, it seems the connection is really slow but give it a try later on.

Anyway, peruse his website and, IIRC, there is a great illustration of the correct way to load film into the holders. I think it's under, "Articles" or something like that. It's well demonstrated in picture form. After looking at it... take a sheet of B&W film and practice loading the holders in the daylight. Then, when you feel proficient, give it a try in the dark.

When loading film... establish an order/routine for yourself and this should help avoid loading film into the same holder twice. I place all the empty holders to my left and, when I load each side of the holder, they're moved to the right hand side of the table. Keeps confusion to a minimum.

In answer to your question about transporting the film to the lab... don't rely entirely on the envelope which held the film. Make sure you put it back into the clam shell of the film box before exposing it to light. If you don't have any extra boxes... ask at the lab and, perhaps, they'll have some. Some places do and some don't.

Although I don't shoot Quickloads/Readyloads... they sure do look like they'd be far more convenient. However, if I were in your shoes, I'd be practicing with regular holders for awhile. Or, at least, until I knew what I was doing with the camera! It's pretty expensive using these when you're first starting out.

Lastly, I agree with Robert... you don't need a huge, heavy tripod. And, IIRC, your camera IS a 4x5, isn't it?

Look for a used Gitzo 1325. They're a lot lighter and more manageable. Alternatively, look at the pods that Kerry Thalmann is bringing in. He's a member on this forum and you can contact him directly through PM.

Good luck.

Cheers

[BigSteveG]

Thanks guys. It's 4x5 now. I have a feeling it'll be 5x7 by next year. Will definitely check out Butzi and Thalman.

[ljsegil]

Slightly different issue but under the topic of film handling--how do you keep track of how you shot a sheet of film when using cut film holders? With Quick/Readyloads, you can take notes on the envelope and the lab will keep the envelope with the negative or transparency, but what do you do with sheet film in order to keep track of how you are shooting? I don't do my own darkroom work, so I have to somehow get the sheets to the lab, and have yet to figure out a way to keep track of what sheet is which when I unload the holders and pack the film for the lab. Any suggestions appreciated.
LJS

[Alan Davenport]

Steve: I agree you must have not gotten the film under the guide rails in the holder. Paul Butzi's web page is a good resource. A better one is to "donate" a sheet of film to your learning process and practice in daylight so you can see, while your fingers learn how to feel the necessary part of the loading process. I've trained myself to touch a fingertip to the endpoint of both of the film guide rails so I can feel the film actually start under the rails. YMMV.

LJ: I'm not sure it's really necessary to know what is on an individual sheet while it's on the way to processing? All you really need to tell the lab is which process to use, and perhaps +/- developing if you have a lab that does custom black and white work for Zone System users. For that, I use individual boxes that are clearly labeled as E-6 or C-41. Once you have the films back, that's when the fun begins...
I use a program on my PDA to track my LF shots. It's also possible to ID your film holders by making notches in the edge of the film loading door, which will show up on the edges of the image area.

[Capocheny]

Hi LJ,

A distinguished LF shooter colleague, John F., suggested assigning each holder a number. Thus, you'd have 1, 2 for holder 1 and 3, 4 for holder 2. On and on with each holder you have.

Then, after you've set up the shot... he recommended roughly drawing a picture in a small pocket book. Include the holder number for each image. If you're using the ZS, at this point, you'd be doing your measurements to determine your shadow and highlight areas. Jot the shadow area on the rough drawing and do likewise for the highlight areas.

Determine whether you need any adjustments in development time... include it as well.

When you get home... you'll have a good record of the information for each shot you took. You'll also know the development time adjustments required, if any. When I unload the holders into the film box... film 1 goes onto the bottom; film 2 goes next and on and on. Make sure you write this order onto the processing envelope and ask that you get them back in the same order. Most labs will be fine with doing this. And, I stress "most!"

Cheers

[roteague]

Slightly different issue but under the topic of film handling--how do you keep track of how you shot a sheet of film when using cut film holders? With Quick/Readyloads, you can take notes on the envelope and the lab will keep the envelope with the negative or transparency, but what do you do with sheet film in order to keep track of how you are shooting? I don't do my own darkroom work, so I have to somehow get the sheets to the lab, and have yet to figure out a way to keep track of what sheet is which when I unload the holders and pack the film for the lab. Any suggestions appreciated.
LJS

I don't bother.