This series of capped-off wires was found just floating around in the box.
This series of capped-off wires was found just floating around in the box.
This shows the two sockets on the back re-wired as they should be. I was lucky in that there was still enough original wire to reach to the sockets.
At this point I was still waiting on the power-input jack. I'm not sure what happened to the original one, but there were little pieces of it floating around in the box.
Here it is ready to tackle the serious problems:
1) The 220V motor control was not working at all (for head up/down)
2) The 24V motor control electric 'brake' circuit was not working. So, there was considerable over-run of the focusing motor after releasing the button. This made focusing almost impossible.
The very first test point on the 220V motor control board was flat-line. The problem was traced to an open-circuit 5 Watt 22 ohm power resistor.
The new resistor is in place here. It is the cylinder green one.
This is the 24V board. The schematic pointed to some components near T7 as controlling the motor 'brake.' That transistor is seen in the picture in the center of the board.
It turns out that T7 failed the in-circuit test with my diode-tester. I took the transistor out and it was obviously bad.
By some great chance, I had two spare transistors of the exact same type. They were left over from the repair of my other power supply. I bought them an never wound up needing them.
So, after replacing the transistor T7, the function as perfect.
Ready for the test. Here I have hooked up the power supply to the enlarger's multi-connector.
Everything checked out perfect.
Here it is, all back together. I put all the correct fuses in place, and located correct-size screws to replace any missing screws from the box.
The ECU1000 was put back together. It turns out there was nothing wrong with it, except the cable had been run over by the wheels of the enlarger and was severed in two places. That accounted for its lack of function.
One wire that was cut was the 60hz signal to run the timer. That one runs on the edge of the cable and would be the most likely to be damaged. After repairing that wire, the timer worked again.
The other wire was damaged under the unit where the ribbon exits the box. That wire was near the center of the strip and it controlled the solenoid signal.
So, after repairing those two areas of the ribbon cable, the ECU1000 functioned again.
As anybody tried to modify the top of the 2000 head to accommodate the lens stage posts in a similar way as the 1840 head when using shorter focal lenses ?
Not sure to which you refer. I believe there may have been different versions of the CLS2000. I have not noticed any problem with the lens stage posts even with the bellows almost binding.
the black "top" of my 1840 is ± 285cm wide. Wide enough for the posts. The top of my 2000 is ± 220 cm wide and has a connection for a ventilation hose. And has a App.Nr 98400377
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