This is NOT my enlarger, the picture is from my archive of L1840 information. This picture from a For Sale ad. I believe the picture shows that the arm for the baseboard has indeed been removed.Is it possible to remove the baseboard arm from the 1840 chassis?
I have two of the 184's, I think if the gear is metal it would live a lot longer.
Maybe brass. On both of mine, the failure point is the hole where the drive pin engages the gear.
I had all these problems as IC write. Except for electrical shutters (yet).Originally Posted by ic-racer
Also I had to replace all Fraco condensers in my 2506, 2501 and Optromat machines. Siemens almost all still alive.
And also Operation Ampl. in the light sensor circuits. Looks like they tend to die just from time. What is bad - they do not die completely - but tend to float in parameters so filtersystem goes crazy compensating this floatation. And they if need to be found new coas 50usd per chip (from Ali).
Also AN glass. I had 20 packs of original ones. They all were wrapped in some paper from factory. This paper with years came into chemical reaction with glass making stains in glass. So they are useless now
As for Colamp and Reflectors. As dead Mr.Jenses cheated us on supplying those we had to investigate and produce our own to survive. I had sent some for testing to IC racer.
We had to destroy one original reflector to make metal mold (minus few k-money) and produced small series for ourselves (40-50 Reflectors) on China factory.
Also we worked with another China factory to reproduce original Colamp 2000. +/- we were good. But first run was only 10 and next had to be 100+. That was expensive - so if somebody wish to share costs on new run, we could make it. I have sent a lamp for testing to IC also, cause manufacturer told that it might not work 100 hours in vertical position due to filament overheat and prolongation. I have tested 2-3 over last year's with our 2501-2506 and only this year put one inside Optromat vertical machine.
If produce 100 minimum run the production price is about 40- usd I can't afford 4000- usd spent now on this just spare. Maybe 30 lamps max.
Sergey
I have a printing session coming up this week and I'll take pictures of the reflector and lamp to compare. Since I only enlarge my own negatives, my volume is low, but this may be similar to others on this forum. For that matter, the reproduction lamp and reflector will likely last many years.
Pretty hard to stain glass. You might try various things to remove. NEVER MIX ANY OF THESE CHEMICALS TOGETHER. Do everything outside.
I'd start with chlorine bleach. Then oxalic acid. Lime away or equivalent. If oil based (non-polar), then naphtha or acetone. TSP is a good solvent. I don't think any of them will damage glass.
Probably a chemist here that knows better than I.
NEVER MIX ANY OF THESE CHEMICALS TOGETHER.
e
The glass mentioned in post #553 might be damaged from fungus. All the glass from my MFA thesis exhibition in 1988 was saved so I could use it to for framing. Around 2006 I examined the glass I had kept in the basement and all the panes were etched from fungus (mold, mildew, mycosis, etc).
I don't think that fungus was there. No smell, wrapping paper is dry without signs of anything wrong. I think problem is with something iside durst wrap paper. I would make pictures when(if) come to lab (stucked with atomatic transmission dead in Turkey 2500 km from home).
fiddling with my freshly acquired Nega 205 carrier, I am not sure I understand what the small window with the hairline cross is meant for and how do I use it.
this is what the manual says about it. Looks like a focus register post of some sorts, but maybe someone here can shed light.
also, any info on where to buy some sheets of light seal material to replace the ones around the carrier?
what I am finding on Ebay is small sheets, the Nega is about 12" square, I would like to cut strips that lenght instead of joining shorter strips
thank you for any info
Assuming everything has been properly aligned and leveled, which is fairly easy with that Durst model, you place a negative in the carrier and very precisely focus on either your baseboard or easel itself. Then, without changing any of that focus position, you shift the carrier position so that the crosshairs come into the middle of position rather than the center of the real negative itself. Then you fine-tune the adjustment of the crosshair device itself so that it too comes in acute focus, and therefore exactly corresponds to the correct positioning for any negative itself in the glass carrier, that is, emulsion-down. So this becomes a convenience option. You can thereafter assume that if the crosshairs are in correct focus, any negative itself will be (it's easier to focus the crosshairs).
thank you Drew, will give this a try
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