Hiya
I've refurbed two wooden-bodied cameras, similar to what you're doing.
The finish I use is incredibly easy to do, dries instantly, looks great, is 100% waterproof. I learned about it through luthier's (fiddle & guitar makers) sites. It's routinely used on high-end electric guitar necks & bodies, gunstocks, turned-wood craftwork, handmade old-fashioned pens etc.
Super glue and linseed oil. Linseed oil (and similar natural drying oils) 'dries' via a slow chemical polymerization process. Somebody discovered that when super glue meets linseed oil the process happens instantly.
Tools:
1. Super Glue. The kind with a brush built into the bottletop makes it easier to use.
2. Good quality linseed oil. Try the stuff sold at art supply stores for an oil painting medium. Get a small bottle--a little goes a long, long way. Linseed oil sold as guitar 'fretboard oil' or for violin varnish formulation is good too.
3. The 'better quality' paper towels. Thicker ones, not shreddy or linty. 'Shop Paper Towels' sold in hardware store are best. They're usually blue, not white.
4. (optional but WAY nice). Tints. You add them to the linseed oil before mixing with the glue. That way you can tint the wood any color ya want. I use 'Tints-All' brand in 1.5 ounce tubes--gotten at paint stores. (House Paint stores--not Artists Paint stores.)
5. Q-tips or small brush.
Method:
1. Wood should be sanded or scraped to final smoothness. Remove any lingering dust with tack cloth--or rub with Denatured Alcohol and allow to dry.
2. Work in small areas--about 2" x 2" at a time. Don't worry about streaking or build-up. This stuff goes on very thin and each area will overlap previous ones with no trace of smudginess. It's one of those 'Modern Miracle' things.
3. Smear or brush the linseed oil onto the wood, about a 1" little puddle
4. brush or drip a small puddle of super glue next-to (but not on) the linseed oil...then IMMEDIATELY:
5. rub the two puddles together, every-which-way, to-and-fro, circles or back and forth, any direction is okay. It won't spread far and will begin to harden as you watch.
6. thow away the paper towel and grab a fresh one. One towel for each 'patch'.
7. repeat, starting the 'next patch' immediately-adjoining the one you've just done. Don't worry about overlap--none will be visible. As you proceed the patches already done will look like one seamless area. Like I said, it's magic. Keep repeating until entire camera body is done.
8. When done, if you missed any areas, just go back and fill them in using the same technique. If you want to build up a very thick finish, just do a second coat.
8. Rub it all over with more paper towels or a soft rag. If any area feels oily or 'wet', that means there wasn't enough super glue applied there. Repeat the process there to fix it.
It's a modern take on ''French Polishing' but WAY easier and about 10 hours faster. And unlike anything using shellac, totally waterproof. Immune to most solvents also.
Caution: Work in a well-ventilated area. Superglue fumes can be nasty. Don't use too much glue or lean too close over the job. A little dab will do ya.
I've used this finish on cameras, banjo rims, guitar necks, and paint brush handles (makes 'em resistant to water and solvents). I'm always amazed by how good it works and looks...and by how easy it is.
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Another easy option but not as nice-looking or durable:
1. Deft (spray-can) Wood Laquer. Luthiers use it for non-fancy violin and guitar finishes. Spray many thin coats. Buff, steel wool or Micro Fiber between coats and for final polishing.
I'll take a pic of my little Korona VII finished with glue-and-oil and post it here for ya. Gotta go borrow housemate's digital camera.
I'll also try to locate the luthier's sites which spell out the glue-n-oil process in detail, and provide the URL's for ya.
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Another option: veneer the body. This will hide the lumps and bumps n' holes n' wood filler...you can veneer the lensboards too so everything matches! like this person did such a lovely job with:
http://home.online.no/~gjon/crown99.htm
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