First of all, the real issue is not whether or not you can make the ground glass brighter with some type of application, but whether brighter is also better. You can make almost any ground glass brighter by spraying a thin layer of polyurethane varnish on the ground side. However, depending on how finely the glass was ground this might result in a ground glass with a very hot spot in the center.
The improvement in brightness may be a product of how fine the glass was ground in the first place. If you were to spray polyurethane on very coase, medium and very fine ground glass the improvement in brightness would be greatest with the coarse, least with the fine.
Sandy King
I think the most pertinent question is, will this actually come to anything? People seem to have forgotten the last appearance on this forum by Shin-ichi Kumanomido (http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=19771 - second page for his posts) in which we got excited about the prospect of Mido holders being reborn. We indicated a willingness to part with large amounts of cash for the holders, but never heard from him again.
" However, depending on how finely the glass was ground this might result in a ground glass with a very hot spot in the center."
There are even more important question.
How well will the sharply focused image jump into focus?
How easy will it be to focus with a wide angle or an extreme wide angle lens and be able to see the sharply focused point snap into focus?
If it is very easy to focus with an extreme wide how well does the image snap into focus with long lenses?
Is there an effective range of focal lengths that this process works with or does it work equally well regardless of focal length?
Some grain in the ground glass is necessary to be able to see the image snap to focus. A plain piece of glass is very difficult to focus on even though it is brighter then a ground glass.
Lastly what happens to the image when your eye moves out of the optical axis? Does the image black out then?
You can't increase the volume of light striking the ground glass after passing through the lens. Is this narrowing the viewing angle by concentrating light so the eye must stay on the optical axis?
On a question of the hot spot on a brighter screen: It is true that the even brightness of a g.g. and the hot spot is inversely related, especially with wide angle lenses. but if you look at the Wista flesnel/groung comb. It is a very good "compromise" .It is bright without the annoying hot spot, though it is a a bit stronger than other darker g.g. By comparing the S.B. g.g. with Wista combo side by side each fitted with 75mm Fujinon SW, the S.B. is as good as the Wista without paying $175 from a dealer. The Wista combo has no flesnel at the center (hot spot) about an inch in diameter that makes focusing easier. The Super Bright is an after treatment of the existing g.g. that is to be placed in front or behind the fresnel lens depending on the camera. Without the fresnel lens the S.B. g.g does exhibit a strong hot spot.
Shin
Shin!
It's very good to hear from you again. To slightly hijack a thread, did you make any progress on the idea of 11x14 Mido holders? You may recall there was considerable interest on this site.
Richard.
FWIW, ive used a drop of oil on a gg to brighten it up. By spreading it around the glass, then using a dry cloth to remove any excess, you will be left with a much brighter screen. However as said before, there forms a substantial hotspot if you cover the whole glass. It works better on a screen with a fresnel installed but is still very hard to focus a wide-angle lens. As an alternative, you can wipe the oil on only the center of the screen, but ive has problems keeping the 'center spot' uniformly round, and it distracts from composing the image. Focussing in the center of an oiled glass is wonderful, nice crisp clear images with good contrast.
One niec thing about the oil is that you can wash the glass with dish soap to remove it.
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