Lens hole for Commercial Ektar 14"

[cyrus]

Does a Commercial Ektar 14" fit into a Copal 3?

[Gene McCluney]

Unfortunately, Kodak Commercial Ektars don't even fit in standard Ilex shutters of the period, as Kodak had custom "made for Eastman Kodak by Ilex" shutters supplied for fitting all the sizes of the Commercial Ektars into. I know I have tried.
The mounts for all the Commercial Ektars are unique to Kodak. In any case, even with custom mounting, since the 14" was originally mounted in an Ilex #5, it would take (I think) a bigger shutter than a Copal #3.

[cyrus]

So I have to get a lensboard custom-cut. Great.

[Robert A. Zeichner]

According to my 3rd edition Kodak Data book, the shutter mounting hole for the 14" Commercial Ektar is 3-3/8" or 86mm. If your Ilex 5 is equipped with a mounting flange, you might be able to find a hole saw in the 3-3/8" diameter size and just drill it yourself. This of course assumes your lens board is wood, you have a drill and want to go the trouble. Or, perhaps you could ask around and see if one of the many fine woodworkers on this site would do this for you. Good luck.

[Gene McCluney]

I'm sorry I misunderstood your question, I thought you were asking if the 14" Ektar lens elements fit into a Copal 3 shutter. What you want is to know if the whole lens fits into a whole on a lensboard made for a Copal 3 shutter. The answer is no, the Ektar in Ilex #5 is a much bigger hole, and mounts with a Flange, rather than a retaining ring. On thin metal lensboards, some of us use the Flange like a retaining ring, and screw it on from the back of the board, thus retaining the lens.

[Turner Reich]

This is the time to buy a drill, saw, pencil, compass, and make it yourself. The hardware stores are loaded with materials that can be used for the board. They might even cut it to fit the camera. Or you can cut and sand the edges yourself. Give it a try and forget having to look and pay and depend on others for what you can do for yourself.

[Gene McCluney]

This is the time to buy a drill, saw, pencil, compass, and make it yourself. The hardware stores are loaded with materials that can be used for the board. They might even cut it to fit the camera. Or you can cut and sand the edges yourself. Give it a try and forget having to look and pay and depend on others for what you can do for yourself.

Amen! Way to go! I have made about 15 lensboards myself in the last month...and adaptor boards so I can use lenses mounted for one of my cameras on another, etc., etc.

[cyrus]

This is the time to buy a drill, saw, pencil, compass, and make it yourself. The hardware stores are loaded with materials that can be used for the board. They might even cut it to fit the camera. Or you can cut and sand the edges yourself. Give it a try and forget having to look and pay and depend on others for what you can do for yourself.

I would but I want to put this on a lensboard for a Century Studio camera, with the mongo-sized mahogony lensboards - which I don't have. Can you help out there?

[Gene McCluney]

You can get super-high quality pre-sanded Birch 1/4" and 3/8" plywood in 1ft x 2ft sheets at many hobby store chains. You can craft a very nice lensboard from this material and stain it Mahogony, and finish it with Polyurethane gloss finish. This is one solution to achieving a "dress" lensboard. Me, I use the Birch but I just paint the whole things flat black. I am more into "user" lensboards. In any case, you should paint the back side (facing the ground glass) flat black to control internal reflections in the camera. You don't need actual Mahogony wood, as the wood stain you use will achieve a match with your camera body. Also, the plywood mentioned above would be less likely to warp in the long run.

[cyrus]

You can get super-high quality pre-sanded Birch 1/4" and 3/8" plywood in 1ft x 2ft sheets at many hobby store chains. You can craft a very nice lensboard from this material and stain it Mahogony, and finish it with Polyurethane gloss finish. This is one solution to achieving a "dress" lensboard. Me, I use the Birch but I just paint the whole things flat black. I am more into "user" lensboards. In any case, you should paint the back side (facing the ground glass) flat black to control internal reflections in the camera. You don't need actual Mahogony wood, as the wood stain you use will achieve a match with your camera body. Also, the plywood mentioned above would be less likely to warp in the long run.

Excellent. How do I make the ridge that goes around the sides? I am no wood worker - but I think a router does that, and needs a router table. Is that right?