Going in with a calumet

[Padu Merloti]

Hi All,

I'm a "casual" photographer... I invest more time than the average hobbyist photographer into learning photography but I'm not a professional photographer. Better yet, I'm a software engineer that once had dreams to be a professional photographer.

I started photography in the late 80's with 35mm and my own B&W darkroom. Recently I've jumped into the digital bandwagon with a sonalta d-slr. All good until I came to an exhibition of a fellow photographer (Dana Neibert) and realized that film is still used a lot, especially for commercial stuff. He showed his crown graphic, and that got me thinking.

Now I want to start shooting large format (4x5), but on a budget.

From what I've researched, the calumets are a very good starter camera (cheap), and then I've bought one on ebay (model CC-402 I believe, it's the gray one) for about $100 bucks (body only), still shipping. The price is ok, so if I need to re-sell it, I won't loose any money.

My question is if this is a good camera to start (availability of parts...) or should I spend a bit more and start with a calumet 45N model (the black one, with square rails). I've heard somewhere that square rails are better than rod rails, any true?

I will mostly shoot in my studio, and I don't care for convenience if I need to take a few shots outdoors and carry that monster around.

I've read the recommendations about shen hao, tachihara (spell?) and so on, but these will be about $500 after all said and done, while I believe I can spend as little as $300 with a calumet system.

Cheers!

Padu

[Walter Calahan]

Learn what you just bought. It will teach you what you want and don't want in your next camera.

[Padu Merloti]

Learn what you just bought. It will teach you what you want and don't want in your next camera.

I read that as an implicit "yeah, this camera will be ok".

I'll explore around and try to learn what I need to buy next and start shooting!

Cheers and tks

[windpointphoto]

They're good cameras in the studio. Hard, but not impossible to lug around in the field. The only real drawback is the rail is either in the picture or sticking you in the throat. The only parts I ever needed to replace was the occasional knob. I got replacements at the hardware store. It's been said many times in many ways, spend the money on the best lens you can afford. The camera is only a light tight box that holds the lens at one end and film at the other. Plus they're cool to look at and they just seem to say "I are a professional".

[Vaughn]

"The long focus CC-401 is desirable for portraits and product photography, while the wide angle CC-402 is a rather remarkable camera. To make good use of lenses in the 90mm or shorter area, the usual, but rather expensive, means of allowing this to be done conveniently, is to buy a modular camera and equip it with a bag bellows, a short rail and perhaps a recessed lensboard. The CC-402 provides quite a good wide angle capability just as it came from Calumet. The bellows isn't a bag type but it is very flexible. The rail is short, so it doesn't poke you when you are trying to focus. The lensboard isn't recessed, it's set back from the front frame. This is less apt to be a nuisance than the recessed types. (Often, attaching cable releases and/or flash cords to a recessed lensboard can be a problem.) It is a specialist camera, not usable with long lenses at all. The maximum distance from lensboard to groundglass is about seven inches (180mm), so a lens of maybe 5" 125mm is as long as would be feasible."

I grabbed that off another website. So from that, if you have the 402, it will have a rather short rail. With only 7" of bellows, you will be limited to relatively short lenses, such as the 125mm mentioned, for work in the studio, while a 150mm should be able to focus at infinity out in the landscape. But if you can find a good value with a 90mm, and like the look of wide-angle photography, you'll be set.

But measure the distance from the GG to the lens board with the camera racked all the way out and let us know the distance.

In any case, Calumets are good machines and Walter is correct...using this camera will inform you of what you like and/or dislike in a view camera.

Vaughn

[Padu Merloti]

I grabbed that off another website. So from that, if you have the 402, it will have a rather short rail. With only 7" of bellows, you will be limited to relatively short lenses, such as the 125mm mentioned, for work in the studio, while a 150mm should be able to focus at infinity out in the landscape. But if you can find a good value with a 90mm, and like the look of wide-angle photography, you'll be set.

But measure the distance from the GG to the lens board with the camera racked all the way out and let us know the distance.

In any case, Calumets are good machines and Walter is correct...using this camera will inform you of what you like and/or dislike in a view camera.

Vaughn

According to the item description,

my camera on ebay
it has a 20 inches rail...

[Vaughn]

So that would be the 401. The standard length (the 400?) is 16".

I think that unless you really like shooting wide angle, this might be the better camera to start off with. You will have a larger choice of lenses that will work for you, and will be able to use the same lens in the landscape and for close-up work in the studio.

The Caltar 150mm, 180mm or 210mm would be the inexpensive, yet very good quality way to start off. Since money is an issue, I am assuming that one lens is the way you would like to go for now. Any of the above focal lengths will serve you well. Personally I prefer the 150mm (normal -- close to what our eyes see), but others tend towards the 210mm (slightly long). The 180mm would be either the long side of normal or the short side of long.

Vaughn

[Sheldon N]

I started in 4x5 with a Cambo monorail and a 135mm Optar lens at the cost of $125. I thought it would be an interesting diversion from digital.

What I didn't realize is that it would cost me $3,000.

Be careful, or you'll catch the bug!

[Ernest Purdum]

The Calumet is an excellent starter camera. It was a favorite of photography classes for many years and for good reason. It allows you to find out what all the movements are good for and it is quite sturdy. The rod rail is fine.

One of its weaker points is the friction focusing. This might be the cause of what you heard about square rails, since they are associated with rack and pinion focusing. Keep the friction surfaces clean and this should not be a problem.

If and when you should want to upgrade to a more versatile monorail, look for something that offers interchangeable bellows, backs and rails. Offhand, I don't remember whether or not the 45N does.

In selecting a lens, make sure you have enough coverage to make use of your movements. If in doubt, come back here and ask. Most 180 or 210mm lenses would be fine. Be sure to stay away from 127 or 135mm f4.5 lenses. These have no movement capability at all.

The Tachihara, Shen Hao and all are for people who want something light for backpacking. You may want to consider one of these later, but the Calumet is a better starting tool, particularly since you say you have mostly studio work in mind.

[Padu Merloti]

snipped...

In selecting a lens, make sure you have enough coverage to make use of your movements. If in doubt, come back here and ask. Most 180 or 210mm lenses would be fine. Be sure to stay away from 127 or 135mm f4.5 lenses. These have no movement capability at all.

snipped...

Thanks a lot for the reply, and thanks to everybody who also replied.

Regarding the lens focal distance, I'll have to study more about it. In my mind, shorter focals would have a wider angle, and therefore a larger circle (which would allow more movements). Can you point where is the flaw in my thought?

BTW, from what I've seen so far I think I'll easily spend more on the lens than I've spent on the body. Just a confirmation, the shutter always come integrated with the lens?

Cheers!

Padu