looking for info on PA-KO Electro gloss photo dryer. can not fine a manual anywhere on the net...can you help
looking for info on PA-KO Electro gloss photo dryer. can not fine a manual anywhere on the net...can you help
PAKO made printers dryers that were both flat and rotating. Doesn't matter which one you are talking about. If yours is one that has a shiny surface, either slightly curved or flat or a drum covered with a cloth then follow the steps below:
1)Make sure the shiny surface is absolutely clean and scratch free. Any debris or scratches will show up on glossy print as an area that is not glossed.
2) Make sure the cloth cover that stretches over the plate is clean. Any chemical residue can also affect the glossing.
3) Put your squeeged print(s) face down ... print side facing the shiny surface ... and squeege/rub them to make sure there are no air bubbles.
4) Stretch the cover cloth tight.
5) Turn the heat control on and up.
If you have followed all the instructions you should have no problem using high heat on fiber paper. Generally, these are not recommended for RC paper but I recall there has been some change in this with modern RC papers and my recollections are decades old. You print will dry with a very high gloss. When will it be done? All depends on how hot the platten is so you should check it every once in a while. Seldom more than an hour if your machine is working properly. BTW, be sure the check yoru electrical connections before you plug it in as you likely have something that is around 30-50 years old.
Hope this helps, all from memory.
Ted's description is pretty thorough (showing his memory is still working well), but I'll add a couple of points.
To clarify, the emulsion side of "glossy" conventional paper (i.e. non-RC) goes against the chrome plate for high gloss ("ferrotyped") prints. For "matte" prints (a relative term if using "glossy" paper), place the base side against the plate or drum. Surface damage on the chrome of the plate can result in the emulsion of the print actually sticking to it, making a real mess. When restoring an old drier to use, it's probably a good idea to clean the plate (or drum), then polish it with a good chrome polish, then clean again with water and dry polish to a high shine.
Similarly, it's a good idea to (thoroughly, but gently) wash the cloth cover or belt prior to use. Any residual fixer from poorly-washed prints will have also contaminated the cloth, and that will contaminate properly-washed prints if the cloth isn't cleaned well.
Ferrotyped glossy prints will "pop" from the surface when dry, usually with somewhat of a reverse curl. If the print is still attached to the chrome surface, it probably isn't fully dry (or, the chrome surface has blemishes). The motor drive on drum models were usually timed such that the transport time was long enough to fully dry prints, once the heat setting was properly adjusted.
What! No mention of Pak-O-Sol? The washed print typically gets "drained" and then a bath in solution of a "glossing" release agent.
Also, it seems to me that the heat is "up" to the designated temperature. When the lightly squeegied print is placed on the heated surface there would be slight sizzle.
In this day and age it is too bad that the procedure isn't made into a video clip that could be viewed on the internet. Once the system is structured, it is quick and easy. I wonder though if one should then use a fixer with hardner (which would then imply a longer wash).
Well back in the days when ...... I generally used Rapid Fix but I did do fairly long washes. Typically prints would wash overnight at the studio after I went home for the day. Yeah, we both forgot about the sizzle. BTW I still have one of these monsters sitting around .... sits right next to the monster 'hampster wheel' Arkay rotary washer.
Music to my ears, fragrance to my nose, ah-h to be that young again.
Exactly. How I loved the aroma of Pak-O-Sol!
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