How do you know if a Polaroid 545 is worn out?

[AnselAdamsX]

The first box of polaroid I used with this holder had only 1 or 2 failures where it jammed inside (I had to clean it after that) or the whole paper slide came completely out instead of stopping at the end. The second box I had 5 or 7 cases where the film wasnt exposed. I assume in these cases the film came out with the paper slide. I'm wondering if it is my holder or did I get a bad batch of polaroid.

Thanks
Chris Stolpe

[Kirk Gittings]

Polaroid QC is not what it used to be. We use type 664 extensively and lose many more than we used to regardless of using an old or new back. Our "old" back is going on 12 years with approx. 5,000 sheets thru it and it works as good as the brand new one.

[Tom Westbrook]

I've had similar problems lately with type 55. Quality control isn't what it once was. It's good to familiarize yourself with where the envelope is in relation to the holder when pulled out all the way and when inserted all the way, so you know when to stop pulling and when you've seated it back in the clip fully.

[Dan V]

I wasted a half dozen type 54s recently. I later tried my backup spare holder, with a new box of 54s, and had no problems.

[Terence Patrick]

When I load Type 72 in my 545 back, I've been noticing that whatever is supposed to hold the bottom part of the Polaroid down when exposing the film in camera, isn't holding it down. When I pull up on the sheet to expose the film, the entire thing is coming up. Anyway to fix that?

[jnantz]

When I load Type 72 in my 545 back, I've been noticing that whatever is supposed to hold the bottom part of the Polaroid down when exposing the film in camera, isn't holding it down. When I pull up on the sheet to expose the film, the entire thing is coming up. Anyway to fix that?

a repair shop can probably do it ..
or if you are handy you can do it yourself:

http://www.skgrimes.com/about/545/index.htm

i brought mine to my local guy and he fixed it for about 20$.
i also bought a 500 back while i waited and the 545 was being fixed
( cost about 15$ ). the 500 gets used most of the time, it works better.

[erie patsellis]

out of curiosity, does the 500 work with fuji quickloads?


erie

[jnantz]

out of curiosity, does the 500 work with fuji quickloads?


erie

i don't know ... i've only used mine with 59 + 55 film ...

you just have to watch how far you pull off the paper
when using the 500 back. there is no "stop" for the paper
so you can remove it completely

john

[AnselAdamsX]

I'm going to try this field striping. I think it will help my problem. I wasn't pulling my film right out of the holder on the last batch. But it wasn't getting exposed so the holder wasn't catching it properly.

a repair shop can probably do it ..
or if you are handy you can do it yourself:

http://www.skgrimes.com/about/545/index.htm

i brought mine to my local guy and he fixed it for about 20$.
i also bought a 500 back while i waited and the 545 was being fixed
( cost about 15$ ). the 500 gets used most of the time, it works better.

[timsumma]

Well I am new to the forum so I guess you need to consider me loony or not, here goes.

First Polaroid 500 holders should never be used for processing ANY modern Polaroid product. The size, quality and tension system for the processing rollers are so out moded they will never produce proper results.

To eliminate the problem of drawing the negative along with the cover sheet (dark slide) learn to take the time to seat the film envelope squarely into the lower chamber, and learn to hear and feel the ‘click’ of the metal clasp as it seats into the slot/catch.

After you have drawn the dark slide envelope up train your self to lightly draw your middle and index fingers up along the with of the two sheets of paper, if you discern that there is a firm bulge towards the top of the envelope you are feeling the processing pod of chemicals the negative has been drawn up with the cover sleeve. Repeat the loading procedure to reinsert the negative back into the clip and withdraw the cover paper. I find that rapidly actuating the metal bar beneath the processing handle helps to insure a good grasping action on the metal bar to the latch in the holder.

You can remove and substitute the stainless steel rollers from any pack film device/camera and put these into another pack/camera film device. The rollers are of universal design and are interchangeable.

The film in Polaroid type 55 is an emulsion exactly like Kodak Panatomic-X. It is ISO of 32 for negatives and 50 for print. The film can be processed as a normal negative in standard developers. Bitz tubes are the best way to do this form of processing.

All coater Polaroid B&W films are chloride based emulsions, while the non-coater emulsion are bromide emulsions. If you wish you can tone the coater films in Selenium toner for a warm sepia type look. Toning has little effect on non coater film.

Polaroid ‘Pack’ size film is the old lantern slide size films.

To clear all Polaroid negative film materials you can use 1 part Kodak Rapid Fixer PART ‘B’, Hardener (this is NOT fixer) with 4 parts water. After mixing 30 to 50 ml of 28% Acetic Acid is added to the first (DO NOT use indicator stop bath, it can stain negatives).

To pre-expose Polaroid (or for that matter any film B&W or Color to raise the shadow detail), First: determine the basic exposure of the scene. Second: calculate the exposure that would give four (4) stops less than that exposure. Third: Set the cameras exposure for that underexposure of four stops. Final step: Place a standard Styrofoam cup over the lens and give the pre-exposure (Note: You should have drunk the morning coffee prior to placing the cup!).

Now for the final slice of heaven, I swear this truly works and you will not return to yester year! This is real ‘think out of box’ stuff. You will exchange the inner portion of Polaroid Type 55 with Polaroid Type 51HC. This is easily done, remember the film is light sensitive and not the covering envelope. In total darkness remove the inner portion (film, metal clasp, processing pod and paper guide), place this inside a light proof paper safe. I do a box of one film then a box of the other film.
Into each of the outer shell cover envelopes I place a length of 8X10 glossy RC paper stock that has been cut down the middle (the strips are 4X10 lengths), into each of a set of envelopes. If this were Type 55 envelopes I would place an insert film of Type 51HC material in total darkness. Remember that the chemical pod will face the receiver paper in the envelope. Use the long stop bar across the envelope to orient you for placing the film into the envelope for the correct side. You will have wasted nothing just converted the films into new films.
You now have a more contrasty film (the old Type 55), the speed of the film will be about ISO 100. The other film (Type 51HC) will drop to ISO 320 and be a higher contrast than the 55, but not a ultra high contrast film. Both are true Panchromatic films.

Hope that helps. I have a deep working knowledge of Polaroid transfer technology if you have questions with regards to that.

Here is the address of Polaroid info on the maintenance of 545 holders, repair and service. I remember that they use to ‘charge’ you to do general maintenance on the pro gear and then sent you coupons that you could redeem old images on Polaroid materials for fresh film (in a manner they reimbursed you your repair coast back to you).

http://polaroid.custhelp.com/cgi-bin...36&prod_lvl2=0

One last point, Polaroid bills sales to suppliers at 1% less cost of inventory. This means they billed the supplier for 99% of cost. In exchange Polaroid would not receive back materials, the supplier then replaced your damaged product on the spot (and they lost nothing, but made money, plus you the consumer were happy). So return materials to the supplier not Polaroid.