I've been wanting to try this developer for a long time, and am finally ready to do so, but at current I only have the facilities to do drum development (no darkroom in which to do trays). I've heard that WD2D works well for rotary processing, though possibly with the addition of some chemicals (refer to a photo.net thread here). Who has experience using wither WD2D or WD2D+ in a Jobo tank? I would be using it with TXP and possibly also with Efke 25. What say you, forum?
David, Wd2d is a great developer. I use it extensively with brush development. Which is very much like rotary. The sole purpose of brush development is move spent developer from the surface of the film so new developer will replace it as you brush. You are not really brushing the emulsion, (that's if you are using enough developer for this process) rotary development is basically doing the same thing. Wd2d is not recommended for stand development because it was developed for this type of constant agitation. And its stain is beautiful. I think you will be pleased with this developer once you realize its potential. Read about temp variables with w2d2. you can really kick it in the butt using it at warmer temps.Like with any of the pyro developers- once you learn its characteristics you can dial in just about any film density you want for the process you're working in. Good luck and have fun, Robert
I have some experience. I found excessive base fog in 120 roll film trial, even at the slowest Jobo rotation speeds. Give it a try, it may work for you. (I don't actually believe it wil, I'm just saying this to be P.C.)Originally Posted by David R Munson
I would wager Kodak TXP Tri-x 320 in a Jobo in Wd2D+ will be downright aweful, actually.
For Kodak Tri-X TXP 320, I would recommend rating it at ASA 160, and developing in your Jobo with Pyrocat HD, which I have found to be 'rotary process friendly'. But even with Pyrocat HD, you want to rotate the drum as slow as it will run.
Because TXP is a 'low contrast' film, in order to use Pyrocat, I recommend trying to boost contrast a little in the TXP by changing the pyrocat mixture to a 1:2:100 concentration for starters (For all other films, go with 1:1:100).
That may be a useful tip. I used WD2D+ a few weeks ago at slightly higher than recommended temp, and got undesirable, super dense negatives. Perhaps it was that extra 2 or 4 degrees Fahrenheit?
I agree, when you use it right in hand inversion, i have found the WD2D+ is a real wonderful developer. Fantastic.
Robert/Andre: what films have you found WD2D+ (or Pyrocat HD, for that matter) to work well with? While I love TXP, I am not set on it.
David, from personal testing and experience I rate the film's ASA the same for both WD2D+ (1:1:50) and Pyrocat HD (1:1:100) as follows:
Excellent:
Ilford PanF - I rate Pan F at ASA 20. PanF is outstanding in these two developers+
Ilford FP4+ - rate ASA 32 Outstanding. Perhaps the best film.
Ilford HP5+ rate ASA 160 Sharp, nice small grain, subtle good highlights
Kodak Tri-X (TX400) rate ASA 200
Kodak Plus-X (125PX) rate ASA 40
Both the Kodak these films look great in Pyro -perhaps even nicer than Ilford, depending on your tatse. Nice gradation in midtones creates "colored" B&W photographs.
Very Good:
Agfa APX 100 rate ASA 32 Also excellent, be sure not to underexpose even by a stop Agfa 100 gets thin real fast.
Not that Good:
Kodak TXP, rate ASA 125. Flat. Use traditional developer instead or Pyrocat at 1:2:100.
No Experience:
Modern 'T-Grain Films': (Kodak T-MAX, or Ilord Delta.)
Last edited by Andre Noble; 1-Jul-2006 at 09:42.
Andre - thanks a bunch for the information. I am also a big fan of FP4, so I think I may pick some up for this experiment. Any time/temp notes on this film in WD2D+?
Guys,
If you are getting too much B+F or general stain from rotary development there are two remedies that will alleviate the problem with most staining developers. The first is to slow down the RPM of the motor base to as slow as possisble. The second is to increase the amount of A solution in the working by about 50%. With Pyrocat-HD for example, instead of 1:1:100 use 1.5:1:100. This will make the working solution more energetic so reduce time of development a bit.
Sandy
What sort of RPM are we talking about when you say as slow as possible? I roll the tank by hand at this point, so slow isn't an issue...
If possible slow down the speed of rotation to 5-10 RPM. You should not have a problem rolling by hand.
Sandy
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