Antique Brass Flange: Problem with cleaning off Gobbets Of Solder

[Tin Can]

My long front lens tube is loose in a failed Studio shutter

and it seems to be a bitsa

If it falls, it will be curtains

[Jim Noel]

I kind of think the solder would melt pretty quickly with a directly applied soldering iron, especially if you used a soldering wick.This would prevent the heat from being transmitted to the rest of the lens, it might be worth a try anyways as removing the solder is probably the cleanest way to fix this. I'm sure the old solder contains lead, so do it outside if you try.

This is what I would do after setting the iron to a medium to low temperature.

[Tin Can]

I have a tiny gas pencil soldering tool, uses common gas

I can solder, shrink wrap, heat anything very gently

It can also get very hot

This one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJW08JK...ogi&th=1&psc=1

[Daniel Unkefer]

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

I had an excess pile of Imagon parts not matching. I cobbled this together with JBWeld. Could be a 200mm cell group not really sure. But it is sure sweet on the Makiflexes. Extension tubes China Ebay, a good well made extendable system. This is perfect to use on the Makis.

B&L 159.1mm F2 Super Cinephor 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I need to get out and do some location test images with the B&L Super Cinephor 159mm F2 Cinema Projection Lens. Great fun on the standard Makiflex. Won't fit inside the Makiflex Automatic, the lens is huge and pushing the envelope on this camera. I attached the board to the lens with a copious amount of J&B Weld metal epoxy. Worked great. Hooray for JB Weld, no other way to mount this lens. Touched up the back with black flat Krylon and good to go.

[Tin Can]

Never used it

[Greg]

Never used it. I need to test it.

RE: JB Weld... If used on degreased clean surfaces with some "tooth", it is extremely hard to remove. Think of it as being the exact opposite of using a hot glue gun. I once used it on brass and found the JB Weld to be a lot harder than the brass. Removing the JB Weld was a nightmare.

[Daniel Unkefer]

It's really useful for filling holes in Sinar Norma lensboards. I stick blue masking tape over the hole from the front, then fill with JB Weld from the back. When dry after 24 hours, I use a single edge razor blade to "plane" off the excess JB Weld on the back. Sometimes I need to re-do it, but it works great for me. I've had olde Norma boards with twelve or fifteen small holes, when I'm done, and after painting both sides, you can hardly see where it's been recovered. I don't think I could stand to be without my JB Weld. Not for everybody I guess.

Painting Matched Norma Lens Pairs by Nokton48, on Flickr

If you look carefully, you can see where I have filled in dozens of small holes with JB Weld. This bunch of lenses needs final touch-ups with flat black Krylon applied with a tiny brush. Kinds like doing auto body work on a car. And making something useful from what others might throw away.

These are some of my matching lens pairs, for my TLR 4x5 and 5x7 Sinar Norma cameras.

[Drew Bedo]

What’s the ultimate goal? Does the flange really need to be removed?

The ultimate goal is a compleat refurbish/restor or the lens. That may not be possible due to difficulty and expense. This is not an historic, collectable or heirloom item. It will be a shooter, so I will not go all-in on the restoration.

With that said, the primary poal is to get the glass in shape and replace missing screws from the rack and pinion housing, then clean up therear face of the flange so that it can be mounted.

[BrianShaw]

Understood. The pictures really help explain what you've been writing about. Nice lens. if it were mine, I'd remove the remaining screw and find 4 that are functional matches. And with the flange, cut/scrape down with a razor blade. Good luck; that lens will really be fun to use.

[Drew Bedo]

"Fun To Use": I intend to put this on my 8x10 Kodak 2D. It has not been mounted and I am not sure of the format overed. I suspect it will cover 5x7. I'll deal with that by using a reducing back. It can't go on my little 4x5 Zone VI as the Packard Ideal shutter I have is too big and the little Wista made Zone VI was never made with the idea of mounting a shutter right behind the front standard.

Eventually, I'd like to expose some glass dry plates and fool around with Ambrotypes. Perhaps do some Albumin process contact printing.

I am timid about working on the flange and afraid of damaging the optical tube or the rear elements.

How does this type of lens disable? I know the rear elements will unscrew, but how does the tube itself come out? If the focus sleeve can be isolated i t will be easier to work on.