Chamonix 45-F2: scheimpflug for landscapes?

[Wista45SP]

I have a Chamonix 45-F2. The ground glass has four cross hatch marks that are supposed to aid in scheimpflug.

My needs are to quickly set up, and quickly achieve focus through entirety of scene even when using more open apertures. I was hoping using scheimpflug would help via the asymmetrical tilt.

How do I go about achieving this?

[nolindan]

Focus the scene at the lower line, or whatever Chamonix uses to indicate the back's rotation axis. Then use the asymmetric tilt to bring about the best focus for the rest of the scene. The asymmetric tilt rotates the back around the lower line so whatever is in focus at the line stays in focus as the back is tilted.

[Alan Klein]

Focus the scene at the lower line, or whatever Chamonix uses to indicate the back's rotation axis. Then use the asymmetric tilt to bring about the best focus for the rest of the scene. The asymmetric tilt rotates the back around the lower line so whatever is in focus at the line stays in focus as the back is tilted.

Don't you focus the far subject on the lower line?

[Daniel Unkefer]

I learned from Fred Picker's writings, FOCUS ON THE FAR. TILT UNTIL THE NEAR IS SHARP. That's it! Of course you have to refocus, and tweak as necessary. The Keep It Simple Stupid method. Works for me

Frozen Cypress Swamp Dawes Arbor by Nokton48, on Flickr

Frozen Cypress Swamp Dawes Arbor 4x5 Sinar Norma 90mm Norma Super Angulon HP5 D76 1:1 8x10 fibre print Fortezo #2 Dektol.

Ludlow Falls 1980s 4x5 Norma 90mm F8 SA by Nokton48, on Flickr

Ludlow Falls 1980s 4x5 Norma 90mm F8 Super Angulon HP5 D76 1:1 fiber 8x10 print Fortezo Dektol Omega DII Omegalite

Another

1992 Great Sand Dunes No 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I am sinking knee-deep into the sand. This is a glorious experience. I stayed in this spot quite a while just enjoying everything about this. 4x5 Sinar Norma 90mm f8 Norma Super Angulon HP5 d76 1:1. 8x10 fibre print Fortezo Dektol 1:2 Omega Dii Omegalite 180mm black Rodagon.

BTW Those are the beginnings of the Sandre De Christo Mountains in the background. At Sunset Just North of Santa Fe.

[Bernice Loui]

Previously discussed on LFF:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...-Chamonix-45F2

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...ovements/page5

On view camera movements in general:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...ong-amp-Linhof


Camera movement aids are an "aid" at best, given each and every image that need camera movements are often unique to each image. This means camera movements are dependent on the image maker with camera movement aids being an "aid" at best. As for quick, again, it is image maker dependent more than just the specific view camera alone.


Bernice

I have a Chamonix 45-F2. The ground glass has four cross hatch marks that are supposed to aid in scheimpflug.

My needs are to quickly set up, and quickly achieve focus through entirety of scene even when using more open apertures. I was hoping using scheimpflug would help via the asymmetrical tilt.

How do I go about achieving this?

[Doremus Scudder]

Here's Ebony's guide to asymmetrical movements. The principles apply to any camera with asymmetrical movements. https://www.mr-alvandi.com/downloads...el-cameras.pdf .

Keep in mind that asymmetrical tilts and swings are just axis movements with the axis off-center. Find an object you want in focus that lies on the axis line, focus on it, tilt to get another reference object in focus on the opposite side of the ground glass and that's about it.

There are lots of discussions here and over on Photrio about this as well as lots of web sites with info. Do your homework; there are plenty of resources out there.

Best,

Doremus

[Alan Klein]

Here's Ebony's guide to asymmetrical movements. The principles apply to any camera with asymmetrical movements. https://www.mr-alvandi.com/downloads...el-cameras.pdf .

Keep in mind that asymmetrical tilts and swings are just axis movements with the axis off-center. Find an object you want in focus that lies on the axis line, focus on it, tilt to get another reference object in focus on the opposite side of the ground glass and that's about it.

There are lots of discussions here and over on Photrio about this as well as lots of web sites with info. Do your homework; there are plenty of resources out there.

Best,

Doremus

I read through that. Thanks. One comment. Sometimes the far object isn't on the far line at the bottom where the axis is. So I do a rise or drop on the front standard to line the subject on the axis line and focus. Then I return the front standard to where it was originally compositionally and do the asymmetrical tilt on the read for the front subject. Someone confirmed that the rise and fall won't change the focus or tilting results.

[Wista45SP]

Thanks everyone. Great photos above!

I experimented today. Was easiest to focus on infinity along the upper alignment line, and then use asymmetrical tilt to lean back the rear element to bring foreground into focus.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Good deal. If you practice this, you can become quite speedy and efficient at using movements. CONTINUE PRACTICING

Cuyahoga Falls 8x10 HP5 PMK 240 Symmar Ektalure R by Nokton48, on Flickr

Late 1980s Cuyahoga Falls 8x10 Sinar Norma 240 Symmar HP5 (not +) PMK+ Ektalure 8x10 print Ektanol Print Developer. Using a lot of tilt correction. Focus on the far, then tilt until the near is sharp

Peco Jr 135 f3.8 Xenar Delta 100 D23 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Windowlight test of Plaubel Peco Junior with 135mm F3.8 chrome Schneider Xenar in Compur Shutter. Delta 100 in 6x9 Plaubel Makina Roll Film Back F11 aperture. Camera movements utilized, strong back tilt, which I could easily see on the magnified screen. The camera is fun to use. I like the out of focus rendering with the Xenar lens. 5x7 RC Arista #2 Dektol Omega Dii 180 black Rodagon. F3.8 is a joy to look through

[Doremus Scudder]

I read through that. Thanks. One comment. Sometimes the far object isn't on the far line at the bottom where the axis is. So I do a rise or drop on the front standard to line the subject on the axis line and focus. Then I return the front standard to where it was originally compositionally and do the asymmetrical tilt on the read for the front subject. Someone confirmed that the rise and fall won't change the focus or tilting results.

Alan,

You can use front rise/fall to position a far object on the axis line as long as you haven't tilted it beforehand. That way, the lens plane the same distance from the axis line on your ground glass regardless of the lens' vertical position. It should be obvious that if you tilt and then use rise/fall, the lens plane's position will move forward or backward relative to the axis line, which you don't want.

Alternatively, you can just forget the axis line and use the iterative method of applying rear tilt, i.e., focus on the far, tilt till the near and far are equally unsharp, refocus on the far, check the near and repeat if needed.

FWIW, center axis tilts have the same shortcoming to a greater extent: you can't always get a reference point on your desired plane of sharp focus to fall on the axis line. With base tilts, there's never a reference point that falls on the axis (since it's below the ground glass!), so it's really worth learning the iterative method for those times when your axis markings aren't helping any.

Best,

Doremus