How to mount a lens?

[Chris S]

Hi again, ok I have my 300mm Sironar-N MC lens in a Copal #3 shutter, a metal Calumet lensboard drilled for a Copal #3, and a Rodenstock lens wrench tool on its way.The lens is mint, like new and I don't want to mess it up.From what I've read I just unscrew the rear element, then unscrew the retaining ring with the lens wrench, mount, screw retaining back on and tighten with lens wrench, then screw rear element back on hand tight.Is that all there is to it?Are there any 'gotchas' I need to be aware of?I REALLY don't want to screw this lens up.Thanks!...........................................................Chris

[David A. Goldfarb]

That's pretty much it. Usually you don't need a spanner to remove the retaining ring from the shutter before mounting--just for tightening it.

Orient the shutter so that it's not too hard to attach the cable release with your camera, and so that you have convenient access to all the controls. Calumet lensboards are large enough, I think, that this shouldn't be too much of a problem, but sometimes it can be. You can check that everything is oriented properly after the shutter is attached to the lensboard and before you screw on the rear cell.

[tim atherton]

If there is a small screw sticking out of the back of the rear of the shutter where it would sit against the lnesboard and not allow it to seat properly, just remove it (it can sit in a notch on the lensboard to preetn twisting, but most people don't bother).

Also, just be real carful once the rear element os off that your finger or the wrench doesn't slip of and damage either the shutter leaves - very fragile - or the rear of the element.

And if there are any little spacer rings (no idea - some lenses yes, some no) when you remove the rear element, just make sure you don't lose them

BTW you can find a heck of a lot of stuff on this site: e.g.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses-primer/

[Jon Shiu]

Also, usually you don't really need a wrench to tighten the lockring: put your thumb on the lockring and turn the shutter itself to tighten. Make sure the shoulder of the lockring (if any) is in the hole.

[Chris S]

Thanks for the tips guys!

[Brian Ellis]

You don't really need to wait for your spanner wrench to arrive in order to loosen and remove the retaining ring. Just put any pointed object (I used to use one of the tines on a table fork) in one of the slots in the ring and push counter-clockwise. Spanner wrenches are nice and I have one now but for many years I just used the table fork.

[neil poulsen]

Be careful when trying to tighten the retaining ring to make the lens snug against the lensboard. The rear glass is still separated from the shutter at this stage, and the aperture or shutter blades are vulnerable. If you slip, they can be nicked, or worse.

[Frank Petronio]

I prefer to tighten the ring with the aperture blades open and the front element removed. That way, if you slip you only cause cosmetic damage, not damge to the aperture blades or the inside of the lens. With the proper spanner it is hard to slip ;-)

With experience you may decide to position the aperture scales and other knobs at the side, or top and bottom, depending on the way you most often shoot. Experiment once you get the hang of it. Have fun.

BTW, store the lens with the aperture blades open and the shutter set to "T".

[BrianShaw]

Ditto what Frank said about choosing a location for aperture scales with regard to the cable release also. On my camera, if I moung a Copal 3 in the "upright" position, the cable tends to get in the way of the front standard and compendium hood. Mounted "crooked" it is much easier to work with.

[Chris S]

Wow thanks again guys for all the help.The kid down at my local Calumet said He would mount the lens for me no charge, but I figured I really need to be doing this stuff myself.Good idea mounting the lens crooked so the cable release hangs down.On my 4x5 the cable is up and it is always in the way.

Chris