Light meter suggestions?

**esearing** · 30-Dec-2022, 06:06

Originally Posted by Bernice Loui

Note of caution with the spot meter.. Unless it has been modified in some way, the meter reading equals 18% gray rendered on film. This means metering a white color object will render/record as 18% gray on film.... not "white" on film. Keep this in mind while using the spot meter.

Bernice

which is why you meter several spots and think through the zone system where the color/tone will fall. Example gray post in snow is going to read atleast 3 stops different than the snow. Then you have to use your brain to set the gray post or the white snow onto the zone you want. Use EV mode for easiest mental conversion. White snow meters ev12 - A thinking man knows he has to open up 3 stops to get it white in the print. Gray post = EV9 , you could consider it ZoneV and let the snow fall on zone 8. Then everything else you do comes into play EI, development process, and print grade contrast.

**jnantz** · 30-Dec-2022, 06:19

Originally Posted by MILC Toast

Thanks for all the advice. I think I might buy one of the Luna meters and get an app. That would give me a 3-way cross check.

A little back story, my eyes are painfully sensitive to sunlight. I'm not sure if it's the actual brightness or maybe just one wavelength but I squint a lot or wear sunglasses.

I don't think I'm the best judge of light and brightness but I've never tested that against an instrument.

I intend to learn a lot about film speed, aperture and shutter speed as well as how to use the information a light meter provides.

I'll also experiment with using a digital camera to use its metering abilities.

More and more info will let me see what is consistent, what is questionable so I can learn how to take measurements that I can successfully translate to exposure.

good luck figuring it all out !
I have a luna pro sbc but never use it, it is one of the ones that takes a normal 9v battery I think there are 2, you might consider the 9V version those batteries cost very little and are plentiful. I also have a sekonic . 398 I think (no batteries at all). these things are just toys to help you get an idea what the light might be like. the best thing one can do is keep notes, either on paper, in a phone, in one's head &c, and eventually not use a meter and just use your experience.

don't forget to have fun!
have a nice new year
John

**Paul Ron** · 30-Dec-2022, 06:51

luna pro sbc! its very sensitive silicon blue cell is sensitive to -6 ev.... probably one of the most sensitive out there. they sell fairly cheap too. excellent meter!

oh you can get a spot attachment for it as well.

**Willie** · 30-Dec-2022, 06:52

Might look at Quantum Calcu-Light X or XP. They are older, solid state, small and lightweight. Accessories available to do spot metering, direct readings off the ground glass and a host of other applications. Incident or reflective.
The XP is sensitive enough to give meter readings by the light of a quarter moon.
Mainly used, but they last a long time. Mine was used by a friend and bought decades ago. Easily fits in a shirt pocket.

**JMO** · 30-Dec-2022, 09:06

I started with a Sekonic L758DR, but early on in my LF journey I noticed a friend using a Gossen Ultra Spot 2 (GUS2) and he recommended it highly. So I got a nice used one since they were/are no longer available new. It has a 1 degree spot instead of a larger 2 degree spot like the Sekonic or Pentax, and the GUS2 is very sensitive and accurate. The only compromise with the GUS2 is it's a bit bulky compared to something like my Pentax digital spot meter which is an excellent performer that I carry with my MF kit because it's more compact. The Sekonic allows both spot and incident metering, and for another incident light measurement (opinion) with my MF cameras I carry a Gossen Digisix. 99% of my LF images are taken with use of the Gossen US2, and a year or so ago I scored (never used, in original box) the earlier Gossen Ultra Spot (not the "2" version) which is the same design as the 2 but has a less sophisticated internal computer for averaging the readings and helping you to come up with the correct exposure (which feature on the GUS2 I never use anyway). So I feel that tip I received 10 or so years ago to try the Gossen Ultra Spot meters (1 or 2 version) was a good one.

**Alan Klein** · 30-Dec-2022, 09:35

Isn't using more than one-meter manufacturer confusing? Don't you get different readings depending on their use?

**BrianShaw** · 30-Dec-2022, 09:36

Originally Posted by Alan Klein

Isn't using more than one-meter manufacturer confusing? Don't you get different readings depending on their use?

Not really. Some meters are easier to use/read than others but that's about the extent of potential problems.

**BrianShaw** · 30-Dec-2022, 09:42

Originally Posted by JMO

I started with a Sekonic L758DR, but early on in my LF journey I noticed a friend using a Gossen Ultra Spot 2 (GUS2) and he recommended it highly. So I got a nice used one since they were/are no longer available new. It has a 1 degree spot instead of a larger 2 degree spot like the Sekonic or Pentax, and the GUS2 is very sensitive and accurate. The only compromise with the GUS2 is it's a bit bulky compared to something like my Pentax digital spot meter which is an excellent performer that I carry with my MF kit because it's more compact. The Sekonic allows both spot and incident metering, and for another incident light measurement (opinion) with my MF cameras I carry a Gossen Digisix. 99% of my LF images are taken with use of the Gossen US2, and a year or so ago I scored (never used, in original box) the earlier Gossen Ultra Spot (not the "2" version) which is the same design as the 2 but has a less sophisticated internal computer for averaging the readings and helping you to come up with the correct exposure (which feature on the GUS2 I never use anyway). So I feel that tip I received 10 or so years ago to try the Gossen Ultra Spot meters (1 or 2 version) was a good one.

Hmmmm... are you sure about this?

**Merg Ross** · 30-Dec-2022, 09:55

Originally Posted by jnantz

good luck figuring it all out !
..... the best thing one can do is keep notes, either on paper, in a phone, in one's head &c, and eventually not use a meter and just use your experience.

don't forget to have fun!
have a nice new year
John

Best to you John for the new year.

Merg

**Drew Wiley** · 30-Dec-2022, 10:13

I once had a Minolta Spotmeter F. Those were calibrated identical to the Pentax Digital Spotmeters - absolutely identical readings across the full scale. It's slightly smaller than the Pentax; but I found the manual dial ring method of the Pentax faster and more intuitive than the pushbutton & LED readout method of the Minolta. The Pentax is allegedly more durable too, which is not surprising given its much simpler mode of operation. Both are 1 degree readout.