Probably a dumb question - how to see or adjust LF aperture from behind the camera?

[Daniel Unkefer]

5x7 TLR Norma 300mm Symmar matched pair by Nokton48, on Flickr

See the Mickey Mouse Cables? You can see that from behind the camera, it's easy to read the f/stop off of the color coded aperture cable. See the shutter speed scale on the shutter up top? It's also imprinted on the back side. Simple and it works without fuss. BTW these are both the Deluxe Deluxe spring loaded aperture controlled versions. On the lensbaord, see the little black lever with the red dot on it? Flip that and it stops the lens down to the preselected aperture. Simple brilliant mechanism and it works without fuss or bother.

After a while you could operate this camera blindfolded. Sinar Norma had an ad in the day, with a Guy in a blindfold, happily operating the Norma

[Alan Klein]

Ask Ansel Adams how he did it.

[Tin Can]

my lackey does all the magic

[Chuck Pere]

Maybe you can use a smart phone front camera to look at the f-stop adjustment numbers. Just use some kind of wrist strap so you don't drop the phone over the cliff.

[Jim Noel]

To properly set up a camera on a tripod, the tripod itself should be level. Doing so simplifies situations such as you mention. I do it for EVERY shot so I'm always in practice,
With the tripod level, most heads will allow it (the head) to be rotated thus placing the front of the camera to face the operator. Before rotating, note carefully the image along one of the edges Make the adjustment, try the shutter, rotate back to the front and even stopped down there is enough light on the ground glass to reset to original position. Load the film, remove the dark slide and fire the shutter.

[neil poulsen]

Here's an idea . . .

If you're on the edge of a precipice (hopefully still), then depth of field is probably not a problem. Suppose the correct aperture is f22. Then open the aperture to f8 to focus the camera, and it's easy enough to hold (without falling?) a two stop neutral density filter in front of the lens to expose the negative.

Maybe (??) the ND filter will have some slight effect on the final image? But, at least you'll be around to see the photograph after it's been processed.

Of if black and white, one could use a yellow filter with enough of an ND filter to make up the difference. For example, a Wratten 8 yellow has a 1 stop filter factor. So this filter, and a one stop ND filter would be needed to expose the negative.

[xkaes]

To properly set up a camera on a tripod, the tripod itself should be level.

The last time my tripod was level was when I was in Neverland.

[xkaes]

Here's an idea . . .

If you're on the edge of a precipice (hopefully still), then depth of field is probably not a problem.

We must be on different planets. You've never been to the America South West.

[gdi]

Thanks for all the ideas !

I’m not talking about photos on the edge of cliffs usually, but more like at the edge of a river with bolders and slippery rocks to negotiate - the risk is getting wet or maybe a broken ankle and/or camera.

I think my tripod head will be accurate enough to swing to adjust and then swing back to the original composition (or damn close to it). I may need to mark it though it has some rough indexing that should get me close. Or maybe I need to move to longer lenses and shoot from a nice flat car roof!

Many thanks!

[gdi]

Deardorff Studio Cameras had optional levers and knobs to adjust everything from behind decades before SINAR

Hard to find with all bells and whistles, 2 for sale right now, not me, Blue Moon has one

Tilts, swings even aperture, bulb and hose shutter allows any position

Front and rear focus

I considered adding complications last decade

Now it's exercise

Mine shoots to 75" bellows, to high ceiling, 5X7, 8X 10, 11X14 and upside down

Upside down Macro by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr

I’m gonna need a bigger backpack.